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Listen: To be really honest, this is the last thing I want to be doing. I just spent the last two weeks sleeping outside, hiking up mountains, jumping off boulders, riding horses, and sleeping under the stars, and now I’m supposed to sit here and type up a blog post? In The Valley there are no blogs, hell, there’s not even electricity. You want twitter? Just lay up in my rancho and listen to the songbird that made its home in the roof. Our Facebook messages are shouts from across rivers or jokes told across our dinner table. Back in the “real world” everything was screens, faces lit by ambient glow and ears filled with digital sound; personal interaction limited to small talk about who knows what.

Listen: They’ll tell you that “real life” is sitting in an office, climbing the corporate ladder, busting your ass to write emails or file papers just to eke out some kind of a living, but they’re wrong.

Listen: If you’re like me they’ll tell you that you’re running away from the responsibilities of “reality.” They’ll accuse you of not wanting to do your part, to mold yourself into the roles they want you to fill, but they’re wrong.

Don’t listen to anyone who tells you how to define your own reality. Step out of the hot midday sun in the valley and jump into the pulsing waters of the Pecora. Be surrounded by a group of people who (maybe for the first time ever, you feel) actually get you. Take time to actually listen, everyone out here has their own story, even though all paths have lead to The Valley, and eventually all paths will once again diverge.

Listen: Define your own reality.

The first hour in a novel environment captivates the senses. The first day of a journey is bound to be a whirlwind. The first week is a string of new experiences. This is especially true when arriving in Panama to become apart of the Kalu Yala team. As an agriculture intern, I had the exciting and somewhat intimidating prospect of hiking into the valley on my second day in Central America. On a couple of the hills, the air seemed to become thinner and extra motivation was needed to keep climbing. I started to think in terms of baby steps. Just placing one foot in front of the other (no matter how many inches you cover) is all that is needed. Eventually, they add up and you’ll be over the hard part enjoying the river in no time. Nothing describes my new adventure approach better than the idea of using baby steps. Absorbing the unfamiliarity slowly and steadily allows an appreciation of the surroundings without becoming overwhelmed. And the picturesque vistas are definitely worth the climb.

Living in North Florida and working on an organic farm, I have never really had trouble trying to grow plants. Coming to Panama and working on the farm in the Valley has opened my eyes and made me appreciate every little sprout that tenaciously pokes it’s head through the dirt – which so far has not been many. Right now it is the dry season here in Panama, which means that there is very little rain and the sun is so strong that the soil cracks. Every morning in Kalu Yala, I walk around and water all the baby plants that were recently transplanted, but it’s so hot that within minutes of watering them, the soil is bone dry again. We have planted a variety of seeds including papaya, pumpkin, mixed greens, beans, and some others – but they are all having trouble sprouting. One of the raised beds we made next to the kitchen exploded, almost over night, with beans and cover-crop babies; words cannot express how excited I was.

It really makes me think about all the farmers around the world that are dealing with extreme weather, such as flooding and drought. For example, in West Africa there is a massive food crisis occurring. Right now in Mali alone, 4.6 million people will go to bed hungry because of a poor harvest and a killer drought. Extreme weather is only going to become more and more common because of global warming, and we need to prepare farmers worldwide; while it’s only the dry season here in Panama, we have a unique opportunity to learn about growing in an extremely hot and dry climate.  So I’m going to keep planting and keep rejoicing about every single sprout that is strong enough live.

Working on the Kalu Yala property is not easy – you sweat all day, don’t have running water and are dependent on our Directors that they provide all necessary tools and know-how you need for work.

But I am actually not talking about these circumstances when I mean working in the middle of the jungle is hard – I talk about nice little things like sun, rain and wind. Have you ever tried writing a more or less scientific paper while chilling in a crazy creek somewhere in the tropical jungle? I’m guessing no, and so you cannot understand me easily when I try to explain you that it is some hard work! [singlepic id=6526 w=320 h=240 float=left]

I don’t care so much about the sun, although it moves all day and so you have to move yourself almost every hour, nor about these little, light rainfalls which get you frightened because you don’t want your notebook to become wet and your hard work from the last few days is gone – no, I talk about the nice breezes (aka tropical winds) which are the most hazardous risk for your paperwork! They suddenly appear, some stronger, some feebler – but they are always a big danger for your hand written tasks, because they can blow away some pages or maybe your whole notebook, and consequently your whole work of a few days in just a second!

Hence, I learned following things during our third stint in Kalu Yala: 1. Never let your notebook lying unsheltered – maybe some rain will catch it, 2. Keep an eye on your things when you put them in the shade of the community area – other people are the second most dangerous fear for your notebook after weather! 3. Never ever ever (!) leave your notebook somewhere without a paper weight – may it be your water bottle, which I think is the best option but a bit unpractical when you want to drink something while you are taking a break from writing, or another “heavy” jungle item like your iPod and,  4. Books are as sensitive as notebooks when you talk about rough jungle wind, after the first time you lost a piece of paper – or a couple in worst case – of one of our “jungle books” you will never ever keep a book without a paper weight outside.

As I told you in the beginning, doing business work in the jungle with primitive tools is hard work – but you will appreciate more the civilized world anywhere far away from our nice little valley…

Upon arrival in Panama you probably will be really excited for the warm and sunny weather. However, that excitement will likely wear off after about two weeks–a month tops. Waking up in sweaty clothes loses it’s luster at about the thirty day mark, when you will begin looking for viable alternatives– sleeping with frozen towels, sleeping in your bathing suit, sleeping in the refrigerator. (Ok, so maybe I’m exaggerating, it’s not that bad). This is when it is time for you to visit Boquete, and while it may seem dramatic to bus 7 hours to beat the heat, it’s not.

Located next to Panama’s tallest peak Volcan Baru, Boquete offers a plethora of fun activities as well as excellent people watching opportunities. Numerous tour companies offer fun outdoor activities such as ATV tours, waterfall hikes, hot spring and mini canyon tours, zip lining, rafting, bicycling and scooter rentals. Another popular activity, which I did, was a coffee tour. Even if you aren’t a huge coffee drinker (I don’t drink coffee), the tours can be interesting from a historical and socioeconomic standpoint. Coffee has played a huge role in certain Latin American societies making its history and current realities interesting to learn about.

Other personal highlights in Boquete were the strawberries and blackberries. Take advantage while you are here because these are hard to find in other parts of Panama, and seriously–the blackberries were the best blackberries I’ve ever eaten (called mora in Spanish). Check out the Mercado Municipal for fresh fruit and vegetables. For some tasty bites check out Sugar and Spice for breakfast and lunch. Big Daddy’s was a seafood place, but they also had a handful of vegan and vegetarian options. If you haven’t gotten tired of rice, the cheapest places by far to get your fill are the cafeterias on the main avenue in Boquete.

One of the most interesting things you will notice about Boquete is the large amount of ex-pats from the US living in the area. After Panama was named one of the best places to retire, retiring US citizens flooded into the area. I found that it provided excellent people watching opportunities. It may or may not be safe to assume that the older Americans who decide to retire in a foreign country like Panama are pretty interesting and eccentric unless it is Panama that has made them so. Watching the interactions and social dynamics of the ex-pats with the town was very interesting. While we were in Boquete there was a “jazz” festival organized by the ex-pat community there. An example of an event was a free concert in the main square. The audience was a mix of dancing ex-pats, unsuspecting back-packers, Ngöbe-Buglé, and other Panamanians.  Another event was a New Orleans style parade along the main avenue, which again consisted of mostly ex-pats marching down the main avenue playing various instruments. If you are a people-watching enthusiast Boquete will definitely not disappoint.

Boquete is an enjoyable reprieve from the heat of the city, valley and San Miguel. This blog post only scratches the surface of the many things you can do during your visit. Don’t let the city’s reputation as a gringolandia deter you from visiting because it is this very presence that provides excellent people watching and entertainment.

One of the Community Outreach team’s main projects this semester is starting a thriving Permaculture garden in San Miguel.  Lately my days have been spent researching this project, putting that knowledge into action, and dealing the speed bumps along the way. The Kalu Yala team was recently gifted with a visit from expert permaculturist Seven Brooks. Steven founded his own eco village in Costa Rica, and his successful permaculture development serves as a beacon for what Kalu Yala hopes to someday accomplish.

This past week the interns, directors, and CEO Jimmy gathered around the board room table in the city as Steven shared with us inspirational messages about permaculture philosophy, as well as practical knowledge we could apply to the valley farm and the San Miguel garden. The great thing about permaculture is its nothing mind blowing or complicated, its uses basic knowledge and awareness to create a system that works together, to sustaining itself and thrive. To learn about permaculture is to become aware of the different factors involved and to avoid the creation of a monoculture. Nature has the power to help us along in many of our endeavors, certain plants work together to help each other grow, other plants have magical healing properties that could compete with any over the counter drug. All of these benefits are available to us if we become aware that they exist and allow the systems to thrive.

I found Steven’s perspective uplifting and inspiring, and I began to understand the endless potential within the plot of land surrounding our San Miguel house. We already have some good-looking soil thanks to compost piles that have been brewing for almost a year, our garden is already producing some yucca, plantains and peppers; But there is still so much open space. One of our biggest, tallest, speed bumps so far is the Pine tree planted along the edge of our garden plot. Although it gives us some nice shade from the Panamanian sun it turns the soil acidic which is not good for crops. I’m not one for cutting down trees but this one has got to go. Thankfully its a hard wood tree that we can mill for some awesome lumber to be used in future construction projects.

Interestingly enough we are learning that the local Panamanian campesinos have their own understanding of permaculture. The farmer with the most successful production out in the valley described his plot as a system of plants that works together to thrive! The community outreach venue is a great team to be starting a garden within, because we are finding you often have to reach out to others to see what works and what doesn’t. In many cases the community around us can be our greatest resource for getting a productive garden started. The perfect permaculture garden will not be finished in 2 months, but that what makes me so excited to begin. There is so much to learn that it seems ridiculous to not get started right away and put time to good use. As of now we have a huge bag of close to 40 different types of seeds, some planters to get these seeds sprouting, and an empty garden bed ready for our seedlings (once the acidic pine tree is out of the way).

I spent the beginning of the week in the valley, checking out their construction of a brand new greenhouse, and seeing the various crops they’ve got started in their farm. As of now we also have a whole lot to learn – but when it comes to growing your own food and supporting yourself in a productive, sustainable, non destructive way, theres no greater knowledge I could possibly hope to attain!

Kalu Yala Internships has purchased a Garmin etrex 30 GPS unit to be used for intern projects and the mapping of the jungle property in Tres Brazos, Panama. We plan to integrate the unit into projects for all three current Kalu Yala-based intern programs: Biology, Agriculture, and Outdoor Recreation.

During the last stint in Kalu Yala, I started obtaining the UTM coordinates of important features in the area. In addition to its usefullness in navigation, it provides many benefits for planning and for the mapping of Kalu Yala. My goal is to create a digital map using ArcGIS that includes many of the important features.

Things to map (now and in the future):

-rivers (Iguana, Pacora, tributary)

-roads

-route to San Miguel

-the water system

-all of the trails

-trees (fruit and lumber)

-outdoor recreation park and zipline

-swimming and fishing spots

There is also an enormous amount of environmental applications for the GPS.

Here are just a few more:

-calculate the area of each crop and total area of land used for agriculture

-monitor agricultural productivity of certain crops or certain parts of farm

-collect water and soil samples and correlate them to gps locations

-analyze the temporal and spatial distribution of soil and water characteristics

-mark UTM coordinates of rare jungle plant species or medicinal plants

That’s all I have for now, but anything you can think of is a potential project for the GPS.

Picture two worlds.  In one, all basic needs for living are met.  In this world there are even enough resources to allow for non-basic luxuries to be met.  This means a nice house with plenty of food, fully furnished to allow for full comfort even with pieces whose purpose is unknown, with gadgets that serve a variety of purposes, and additional means to obtain more of these pleasures, which are not necessary for basic survival.  Often times in this world value is focused on these objects then those using them.  Now picture a second world where basic needs may be met, but some days or months or years are more a struggle to obtain these basic needs.  This world is one of resourcefulness.  Homes are made from used or recycled materials, food is simple and generally enough to keep everyone satisfied if the season allows, tools are used for basic living, and excess gadgets are minimal if present.   In this world the focus is on those living among and using these objects as opposed to the objects themselves.

With these two worlds in mind, if asked which world is the one of excess, many would say the first.  True, materialistically they live in excess, however if the perspective of excess is changed to which world feels they have excess to share with others it is the second world that lives in excess.  In countless different interactions with rural campesinos their actions of sharing their food, their homes, their crops, and their families have proven that even when basic needs are barely met that does not mean there is no excess to share with others.  This willingness to share is much more evident among these groups who have less as opposed to those living in the first world that was presented.  Often, those in this first world, supposedly live in excess, are very unwilling to share this excess with anyone else.   Material objects often mask what should be valued and that is sharing in order to create an improved quality of life among a majority.  Living simply with just the basics allows for value of life to exist.  After all, without a value of life what is the point of living?

Plantains are the fruit of the Musa Paradisiaca, a type of banana tree. They are a staple crop in much of Africa, Latin America, the Caribbean, and Asia and are served boiled, steamed, baked, or fried. Plantains resemble bananas but are longer, thicker and starchier in flavor. As a plantain ripens, its high starch content changes to sugar changing the flavor to something close to a banana. Plantains at this stage can be thinly sliced and fried, mashed or they can be baked until tender and served with roasted meats or vegetables. When a plantain is totally ripe, the peel is almost completely black.  Although these plantains might look past their prime, this is when their sugar content is the highest and can be sliced, fried and served on top of ice cream and other deserts.

My first night in San Miguel I got to taste plantains, they were served fried with rice, beans and fried chicken at the local bar. They have a texture similar to McDonalds hash browns the outside is slightly crisp but the rest is soft and chewy. The taste is close to French fries but sweeter, the best way to eat them is with lots of salt and a little bit of lime juice. Fried plantains have quickly become a favorite staple in the valley for the whole group.

Jungle Adventures by Kalu Yala is a sustainable tourism company offering 3-day 2-night inclusive jungle tours to Los Tres Brazos region of the Panamanian Highlands aka you’re going to KALU YALA! You’ll immerse yourself into an off-the-grid lifestyle in which travelers and adventurers can test their limits in the raw Panamanian jungle.

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Jungle Adventures by Kalu Yala the best jungle adventure that Panama has to offer for backpackers, outdoor enthusiasts and inspiration-seeking individuals. It is focused on sustainable practices, quality services and adventures, and providing an authentic experience with unforgettable memories.

Kalu Yala is an incredible place that everyone should get a chance to visit. From swimming holes and jumping rocks, to hiking trails and bonfires, it’s the perfect oasis. It’s somewhere you can get away- like no place you’ve ever been. No cellphone, no computer. Possibly a good book. Definitely a sleeping bag (and those are provided those for the weekend!). There’s just no way to describe the feeling of playing volleyball in the middle of a rainforest valley.

Spend your days:

• Hiking

• Spear fishing

• Waterfall climbing

• Rock jumping

• Machete working

• Playing volleyball

• Swimming hole swimming

• Permaculture Farming

• Surrounded by good people for a guaranteed good time

The trip includes transportation, incredible meals by Chef Zac Long, and a boat-load of activities!

Email Jocelyn at [email protected] or call  (+507) 6045-2952.

www.JungleAdventuresPanama.com

Visit www.kaluyalastudyabroad.com for more information.

All during our first stint in the valley the chickens proved to be a bit of a problem. The hens laid eggs in people’s beds (which contrary to what you may think was not appreciated). They often got on the tables in the common area and just generally hung out where they weren’t really supposed to. The interns and the directors alike grew rather disgruntled with chickens who were now viewed as pests. I decided to take on the challenge of taming of these out of control birds.

It all came down to five chickens, one dilapidated coop, and me, the soon to be called Chicken Whisperer. First step to getting these unruly birds out of our common area was getting the coop into a more chicken friendly condition. The floor was all busted in, there were no roosts to speak of, nor were there any nest boxes. First step: remove the floor.

Demolishing the floor was easy. I may have kicked a few mice and a giant toad out of their homes, but the jungle has plenty of suitable environments for them to live in. The next step was making a roost that the chickens would enjoy. Branches are in abundance in the jungle and work perfectly. In no time the chickens were roosting in their refurbished home.

Nest boxes were the next task. This took a little more creativity but we got them up and running. Having the inside finished was a huge improvement. The chickens were happier and so were the people. Last step was getting a door that actually would keep them inside and putting new wire up on the windows… the windows was definitely the easy part. Myself and two other interns built a new door while it was still on the hinges. It was our only option since there were no screw drivers and we definitely don’t have power tools!

With the coop functioning, I put their food and water in the coop and kept them closed in for a three days so they got used to the idea of the coop actually being home. The test was letting them out and it was a success when the hens went back to the coop nest boxes and laid their eggs. The hens seemed quite happy with their new nesting situation.

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Since coming to Panama I’ve been thinking a lot about technology and developed countries. It’s funny that the areas around the world that we consider to be “advanced” are the ones with the most technology. While there are a lot of great things about technology, being in the Valley has really made me question what we lose by using so much technology, I honestly think that we lose our sense of community. Living in America, it’s hard to get away from technology, everyone is constantly on their phones, computers, or listening to their iPods. In the Valley there is no technology, instead we occupy our time with each other’s company. I think that strong communities and good relationships are becoming more and more rare in the developed world and that directly correlates to the amount of technology.

One of the reasons why I love being in the Valley so much is because I can get away from all the phone calls, text messages, and Facebook. Without technology it’s so much easier to have a deep connection with nature and the people around – that’s why after only two weeks of knowing the Valley crew, it seems as though we have all known each other for years.

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{wednesday january 23rd. approximately way too early in the morning and not nearly enough sleep.}

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sitting outside on a balcony, watching the sunrise over panama city, feeling blessed to be here.

these clouds here fascinate me, both their volume and their speed

just last night they were stationary
painted on the sky – a quilt of tiny tufts
(among the unwelcome absence of stars)

yet at this moment
in the early and honest light of dawn
a thick mass of condensation rolls gently, swiftly along, telling me a story
of the tradewinds and the irrelevance of time
though i can’t yet understand

i hear the noises of a city arising from its uneasy slumber

the sun illuminates
reflecting crystal pink
and a fresh, bright orange across the vastness of sky

[singlepic id=6445 w=320 h=240 float=center]It’s 10:30 A.M. and eleven interns, including myself, are ready to take on Panama City. First stop on the agenda: the Fish Market.

We began walking along the boardwalk, the city at our backs and the Caribbean to our left. From that moment, we all knew it was going to be a great day. Our first pit stop was at a shaved ice stand. Here we watched a local shave a giant block of ice and BAM there was a snow cone. It was a little different from your standard snow cone, considering malt milk was an option as a topping. We all thought it was cheese that you sprinkle on your popcorn, but the flavors were on point.

[singlepic id=6443 w=320 h=240 float=right]After walking about 30 minutes, the most pungent smell came in and around our noses. We were getting close to the Fish Market. Everyone was complaining about how awful it smelt, but I’m not going to lie I kind of liked it, it made me feel like I was at home. My father is a fisherman so I grew up around fish guts and have become prone to the smell. It’s actually kind of gross if you think about it. Anyways, we arrived at the fish market and several stands were set up to get food. Ceviche is a huge hit in this area, only a buck for a cup, which also goes very well with a Balboa on draft. While people were grubbing, me and a few of the interns went inside the actual market. WOW, so much fish so little time. Every type of seafood you could imagine was at this market, and talk about cheap prices. All the fisherman were extremely friendly and one could tell that they enjoyed their job, they were so passionate about their fish.[singlepic id=6440 w=320 h=240 float=left]

[singlepic id=6444 w=320 h=240 float=right]Next stop on the agenda was sight seeing in Casco Viejo. Talk about a hidden gem in the capital city, this place is absolutely beautiful and I highly recommend everyone to see it at some point in their lives. Old churches, squares, and cobble stone streets make Casco one of a kind. Since we were on a travel roll, we all decided since we’ve come this far we had to make it to the canal.

Six of us piled in one cab, and the other five of us piled in a second cab. Little did we know we were in for a hell of an experience. Music was on full blast with bass bumpin’ out of the trunk all while our driver was acting like a maniac, peddle to the medal through crowded streets of the city. We arrived at the canal the same time as the other cab full of people.

Typically, a cab ride runs from about $2- $10 in the city, and trust me they are not afraid to rip you off. One of the directors, Max Cooper, told all the interns if they do try to rip you off, run. Yes, run away from the cab driver because half of the time they won’t come after you. WRONG.

We get out of the cab and hand the driver $8. Everything seemed good to go until he consulted with the other driver and was expecting us to pay $15. None of us were having this, so we ran away. We booked it up the stairs to get to the entrance of the canal. Thinking this guy is off our backs, he shows up unexpectedly at the ticket booth. He runs over to the security guard and tells him that we refused to pay him and not to let us into the canal. And what do you know, we couldn’t get in until we paid up. We ended up paying him $15, which is a pretty steep amount.

A little shaken up after this, we ready to see some ships pass through the canal, and drink some Balboas obviously.[singlepic id=6441 w=320 h=240 float=center]

Moral of the day, don’t run away from the cab driver because you will get chased.

A book sat casually on the shelf in San Miguel looking worn down, with a battered book jacket, many paper folds, even a few bobby pin book marks. You could tell it had been passed around, (which is always a good sign) so I began reading Spent: Sex, Evolution, and Human Behavior. If you go to the Kalu Yala Facebook page and check out the Notes section, there is one Note titled “The Official Kalu Yala Reading list”. On this list is the very book I picked up. It’s clear why it made the list, Spent gives a new perspective on why evolutionarily we fall subject to bizarre Western consumerism behaviors.

One part that stuck out to me as I sped through the pages was this : “school socializes children to be reliable, politically pacified wage slaves.” The author continued on to talk about how a Harvard education could be obtained by reading the right six foot long shelf of books. I don’t entirely agree with this statement, I think education is critically important and has led me to have a better understanding of the world and its complex and sophisticated facets. But I don’t disagree that there is a lot more out there then the structured education system. The reason I am bringing this up is because it is an idea that can be applied to the Kalu Yala internship,  looking beyond the walls of the classroom and getting out into the world.  You can sit in front of a laptop all day, sit through every lecture, and become a master of whatever topic interests you, however getting out into the world and actually doing something teaches invaluable personal and professional lessons. The Community Outreach team could not get anything done without getting out into the community, asking questions and learning from whats going on around us in San Miguel.

At Kalu Yala I am surrounded by passionate people who are taking their personal briefs, dreams, and ideas, and putting them into action.  Kalu Yala is a place where interns can take personal responsibility, create their own projects and hypothetically be their own boss. No one here is interested in controlling and directing your dreams and aspirations and there is a collective spirit that anything is possible. We support each other, revel in learning what we can, and even if this means learning from failures, at least you got out there and gave something a try.

I have sat in school for most of my life, it is the way the world works, the way you get a job, and support yourself and your family – these are important things that cannot be overlooked.  However if you are a recent graduate, or a curious college student now is the time to get out into the world and explore what interests you, travel, find out what makes you passionate and will drive you towards a fulfilling lifestyle.  One thing I got out of this book that will definitely apply to my time here at Kalu Yala, is to think outside of the mundane day to day. Question the world as you’ve always known it and recognize the endless opportunities in each and every moment.

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Every morning in the Valley I get up around 6:30 a.m., I prepare myself for the start of my day – brushing teeth, getting dressed, daily routine. And then, I walk up the stairs of our nice “Middle Rancho” and enter my own little world, my recreation spot in the tropical jungle, which belongs only to me for around one hour – for my Workout.  I breathe in the fresh, cool tropical air, listening to my German/Spanish/English music (the perfect mix) and enjoy the amazing view I have from the top of my “gym”. This one hour in the morning gives me all the energy I need for the day. [singlepic id=6499 w=320 h=240 float=right] For me, here in the jungle it is not the food, the sun nor the people who give me my energy – it is nature.

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When I stand up there in the middle of this beautiful surrounding, facing a mountain covered in a magical green which changes with every sunbeam – I just cannot describe this deep peace- and at the same time powerful feeling which attaches me up there…

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Generally, nature in the valley can give you so much – you just have to be aware of it! Don’t walk through the tropical jungle only looking at your feet (ok, at the beginning you have to do it because you have to watch your steps). When you look up, you can find beautiful natural scenery and maybe even some sloths or other jungle animals. A day without hiking through the jungle is not a fulfilled valley day for me. Although it can be very exhausting hiking up and down a jungle grassed trail in the tropical sun, it is always worth it, no matter where you go. After a hike like that, you just feel fulfilled, relaxed and full of energy. But these hikes mostly clear my mind, especially when I am alone. Then you have time to stop, take a deep breath and enjoy the amazing nature surrounding you. It just makes you happy to be there.

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My Birthday stint was a huge success. The thing about living in the jungle is that resources are limited, so having a successful birthday requires a lot of planning… Lucky for me the Kalu Yala crew made it spectacular. My day went as follows:

• Saw a Sloth. Wanted to steal him, he ran away( Of course he didn’t run away, he’s a sloth.I’m not that slow.)

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• Kate hiked out in the morning. I don’t know about anyone else, but I think it’s pretty insane for my boss to travel 2 hours and hike 2 hours to get to the valley just to say happy birthday. She really is a fantastic lady!

• All of my favorite meals from Largo, and some orchard fresh mandarins and flowers with breakfast, gummy worms with lunch and chocolate with dinner. (The Valley Crew knows how to keep surprises)

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• Saw a beautiful rainbow.(look for my next blog about the rainbows in the Valley)

• Bonfire/ festivities after dinner.

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• Surprise arrival of Courtney, Morgan and Esteban.

• Midnight Swim in the Pacora.

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Everyone wrote Birthday messages to me on balloons, and all sorts of treats all day long. I have to say it was a perfect 23rd Birthday.

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Coming to Kalu Yala, for me, was an opportunity to break out of the expected roles of life after college. The last thing I wanted to was settle into  a job that I was not enthralled by. I wanted to put myself into a totally unexpected situation, push my boundaries, and have the option to work on multiple projects. So here I am. The big question everyone is asking now is, “What are you planning for your big project?”

The best part about the answer to that question is that I have one. The second best part is that I’ve decided to get into some deep shit… literally. Marcella and I have teamed up to spear head waste management in the Valley- starting with the “composting” toilets we currently have. Our current system is so close to right that it’s almost frustrating, but making it right will most certainly be our biggest adventure.

Our current standing outhouse is made of pallet floors covered in plywood with a women’s side and a men’s side separated by another piece of plywood. Toilet seats are built over a Rubbermaid container… the process is as follows: place a handful of sawdust in the Rubbermaid, take care of business, top it with sawdust, walk to the back of the outhouse to remove the Rubbermaid, and then dump the contents of the bucket into roughly a 5′ wide x 5′ deep** poop hole (#junglelife).

First order of business is to lime and physically aerate our existing 9 month old P.O.S. (Is it safe to add vomit into the poop compost? I need to look that one up.) This process of liming the pit is to eliminate the jungle odors and help to neutralize the pile. After this we’ll have to leave the hole for a bit to decompose the top layers then we have two options- 1) plant a tree in the hole and top it off with neighboring, non-poopy soil; 2) just top off with soil, mark the hole’s location, and leave it to continue to decompose. The end product of any composting toilet, even our shit hole, is to create a closed loop system. Nothing is wasted and some of the best fertilizer is created which is particularly useful in our Valley farm were our soils can be composed of a lot of clay, very dry, or leached of nutrients due to excessive rains.

Our second feat is to build a second bano which will be the women’s restroom at the end of our rebuild. It will be modeled after the original except with all repurposed and Valley harvested materials. We’re going to start with a rancho style floor- trench the edges and then build up the floor with rocks and collected sand from the beach. The plan is to use old posts from OG Basecamp as the corner posts and then create the walls out of dried and halved bamboo stalks which Ian, Marcella, and I collected at the end of this last stint. The interior stall divider will be a Kalu Yala earth ship wall prototy­­­­­­pe! We’re using empty beer cans and clay to build these and we’ve already established a design that works well for this.

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The only fabricated materials to be used are three zinc sheets for the roof, but these are left over materials from previous Valley projects. The poop holes of these new outhouses will eliminate the Rubbermaids and will be dug under the structure (we’re still researching the appropriate size of these holes for the use of 50+ people over a 6 month period). Rain water catchments will be setup on both bathroom buildings so as to further utilize every resource available.

Once we have the new outhouse in working order Marcella and I will move on to renovating the old bathroom into a new and improved boys’ outhouse. We’ll be ripping out the pallet floors and replacing them with rancho floors as well as pulling off the old bamboo walls which are now separating and no longer very private.

The big picture of this formula for shit-cess is that we can eliminate the need for waste water treatment in the community as a whole. The most effective systems are closed loop. Everything we’ve been given by nature needs to be used correctly and then returned back to nature in the most direct way possible. In talking with Austin and Cory, the business interns based in the city, we’ve learned that the plans for the building to be erected by August includes no indoor bathrooms! Marcella and I were ecstatic to hear this because our end goals were to employ larger-scale, real bathroom-esque composting bathhouses. If we can make these dreams a reality for this summer’s event, make this first group of people believe in the right way of doing things, Kalu Yala’s reveries of being the world’s most sustainable community is in line to be absolute. That’s why I’m here. I’ve fallen in love with the big idea and will do everything that I can to move closer to seeing it through one poo pile at a time!

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* Other title brainstorming ideas: Fecal Fun, Mierda Madness, Poop Possibilities, Poo Problems, Gettin’ Shit Done, Pooping Palaces, Shit Innovations, Shit-tastic!, Pooper Troopers, Feces Pieces, Poo Planners

** This estimation of poop hole size was a collaborative effort based on who we determined could potentially lie in the hole.

“Noris, Can you show me how to open a coconut with a machete?” I asked.

Noris then gave me one of her yes I will show you how to do something you silly (but hopefully endearing) gringa looks. I brought her my machete, and before I could even say anything she asked me if I had bought a sheath for it. I had not. I told her that in an effort to save money I passed on the sheath. As soon as I said this, I realized that perhaps a sheath to cover an extremely sharp machete was not the place to cut corners financially. She then proceeded to ask me if I had had it sharpened. I had not done this either. I had bought a machete hadn’t I? Isn’t that part of  being a machete, also being sharp? Apparently not. Noris told us of her friend that we could visit who would sharpen our machetes.

We set out after dinner to find the house of Agustin, the aforementioned machete sharpener. I decided to carry one machete in each hand through the town wearing a dress and a cardigan. It had to be a strange sight: A casually dressed blondish gringo girl carrying two open machetes. We passed a children’s birthday party machetes in hand super nonchalantly.

We arrived at the house of Agustin and Johanna–neighbors of our friend and master chef Noris. I got the sense that they too were laughing on the inside at the three gringa girls wielding unsharpened open machetes. We learned in our conversation that machetes were in fact not sold sharp to deter potentially violent shoplifters. They also asked me why we had not bought machete covers again highlighting my machete noob status. Besides that we had super fun conversation with Agustin and Johanna, who were so absolutely sweet and welcoming. We talked about the differences between learning English and Spanish, the future and Kalu Yala and our roles in the town. They emphasized the importance of a consistent education program in the town of San Miguel, and we agreed. Directora Kelly explained that this was one of our main goals as a program. We want consistent after school programs to be carried throughout each semester including ESL, art’s and crafts, and science club.

To check if our machetes were sufficiently sharp, Agustin without a word cut a frond off of the palm tree out back. They were sharp, and they both repeatedly pleaded for us to be careful walking back since we didn’t have sheaths.

Once again designated the machete wielder, I returned to our house with the caravan of gringos. Again we passed the birthday party full of small children machetes in hand, although I have a slight feeling it would have been more normal had I not been wearing a floral printed dress, cardigan and flip flops.

This experience taught us a few things:

Always buy sheaths for sharp dangerous objects.

Our neighbors are beautiful and kind people.

I looked awesome double-fisting machetes.

The following morning Noris was able to open the coconut with her trademark Noris smirk, and it was glorious. After my careful observation, I think  I should be able to open it myself next time without severing any vital limbs.  Sipping on my coconut water I reflected over the whole experience. Despite making multiple missteps on the machete journey, our friends in San Miguel were patient and willing to help us. This is what Kalu Yala is about. Cooperative community engagement and machetes.

In Panama the locals speak more than Spanish. They also speak “honk.” As a gringo, I’m accustomed to a certain type of honk. I approach honking pulling from the lessons that I learned from The Boy Who Cried Wolf. In my eyes, honks were reserved for the most intense circumstances, for example if there were actually a wolf attacking my sheep. Living near Chicago, I of course know that honks are also reserved for traffic jams when all cars honk at the same time in frustration, because nothing calms any sort of negative feelings in traffic like 25 synchronized honks. Once I honked to let a friend know I was outside, but felt guilty and walked up to the door. I swore to myself that I would suppress the urge to honk and thought I would never honk again until that moment revealed itself in a dramatic therapy session.

It’s amazing to think of where I stood a mere one month ago, a tiny lunar cycle ago, a total of 4 weeks ago when inflation was low, politicians were honest and I was just so young. I thought I knew it all back then. I remembered my first honk when I was 5 and I sat in my parents car parked in the garage and I pushed the middle of the steering wheel shocked that a loud noise could come from such timid pressing. This is where I was on my path of life, not knowing that a honk could be anything more. It was a cold winter in Chicago and I packed my bags and headed down to Panama where they think the winter months are summers. But not only their accidental labeling of the seasons (they’re really sticking to it…everyone keeps saying it’s summer) is what would jar me into a state of culture shock. It was their honks.

Down here, honks mean everything. Don’t believe me? I will list out 15 things that a honk could mean, and then stop due to time, word count issues and the arthritis that would start developing in my fingers. Honks mean: excuse me, I’m running the red light, look at me, how are you doing, you’re good looking, do you need a taxi, come outside, I’m passing you, why are you going slow, why are you going fast,, the light is green, the light is red, I wish Nicholas cage were more intense and then completely mild mannered in his movies, I agree with that sign hanging up, and I accidently hit the horn because my hand constantly rests on it

My favorite honk is the “I know I’m doing something illegal but at least I’m honking.” It’s the do first, ask for permission later approach. It’s the strategy championed by Mitt Romney in his page-turning book entitled No Apologies. The majority of cars, specifically taxis drive with that no apologies mindset. I often wonder if they are reenacting scenes from the Nicholas Cage movie Gone in 60 seconds. For the record, yes, that is the second reference to Nicholas Cage.

You see, down here honking is a sport. If there were a Honking World Cup two things would happen. First, it would finally make the vuvuzuelas the second most annoying sound in soccer (Cristiano Ronaldo’s fake “I’m hurt” yells were a close second), and Panama would dominate. It’s truly an art, and they take the canvas of their horn and paint a beautiful picture of honking.

So my recommendation is this people of Panama (I assume some pretty high level government officials read my blog), you should institutionalize honking so you can present your talents on a global level.  At the very least you should read No Apologies and watch Gone in 60 Seconds…that combination got me through high school.

After a debacle at the airport in San Salvador, El Salvador, where no one seemed to know where my connection flight was, I finally arrived in Panama City about 6 hours after my original arrival time.  Not too bad, all things considered.  After breezing through customs and immigration, I was picked up by a couple of Kalu Yala Directors and taken to the apartment where I will be living for the next 3 months.

Built in Spanish Colonial style, it’s a beautiful, historic building full of windows, arches, wrought iron and indoor/outdoor porches, situated amid numerous sky-rise apartment buildings.  I share a room with a few other guys, but a couple of them also work in San Miguel and the Valley, so they aren’t always there.  There are plenty of couches and hammocks looking out over the city to lounge around in, and a rooftop porch that feels great at night, thanks to the constant wind.  Since it is dry season, the weather is extraordinarily consistent, staying around 93 during the day and 73 during the night.  It hasn’t varied from that for the two weeks that I have been here, and isn’t supposed to for the next couple of months.

During orientation week, we visited each of Kalu Yala’s three sites: Panama City, San Miguel, and the Valley.  The business interns (including me) stay and work in Panama City, along with the owners and a few directors.

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San Miguel is a small town about an hour-and-a-half bus ride outside the city, where our community outreach and education program is based.  The Valley, a few kilometers from San Miguel, is comprised of about 7000 acres of tropical rainforest, of which Kalu Yala currently owns 550 acres.  This is where the city will be built.

After a few days of orientation in the city, we made our way out to San Miguel for two days, which was the beginning of the end of internet, phone, and showers (though I did soap down in the river one day).  Not surprisingly, such lack of amenities leads to odd behavior, such as making up nicknames for all our fellow interns and directors, and creating a group called the Empanada Boys, who then proceeded to create a rap about the origins of each nickname.  I have no problem admitting that this was way out of my comfort zone, but the two guys I room with were pretty intent on it, so I went along, hoping it would be fun.  And it was fun…though it reinforced the fact that I am a 100% white boy—not that I ever had any doubt.  It was during the grueling hour-and-a-half hike through the mountains from San Miguel to the Valley that the Empanada Boys busted out their rhymes to the unsuspecting girls.  It ended up being great fun, and certainly got some laughs.  To my shame, though, there is a video online.  There goes my shot at running for President.

The hike up the ridge and through the rain forest into the Valley was beautiful.  We arrived early in the morning and were greeted by 15 of the Valley interns and other directors.  For the remainder of the day we hiked about, picked fruit from the orchard, hung around the river and went rock jumping.

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When evening came about everyone gathered to eat and drink.  One of my roommates, who is literally a stand-up comedian, and a good one at that, quickly became the center of attention as he reenacted one of his shows.  He then moved on to playing guitar and singing.  There were about 30 people gathered around, watching him intently.  At one point in the middle of the show I went off to the woods to pee.  Suddenly, out of the darkness and rumbling noises of the crowd, I heard the last words I ever wanted to hear: The Empanada Boys.  I stopped mid-stream; my eyes went wide.  How the heck did they find out about us? I stopped and listened, praying not to hear those words again.  But sure enough, I heard the name repeated again, and then again, and then, invariably, “Hey, where is Austin? Austin? Austin! Austin, where are you?!” Son of a B$#?@! My mind raced, trying to find a way out, but I knew it was inevitable; it was going to happen eventually, whether now or later.  So I decided to get it over with.  I trudged back, a little pale-faced, to the chanting crowd, wishing I had drank about, oh, 81 more beers.  I arrived to cheers for the Empanada boys.  And then we rapped.

It was pretty great being out in the Valley for a few days.  No running water, electricity, phone or internet was rather refreshing.  The idea of time became a lot more abstract—my hunger and the sun seemed to be the only real indicators.  And though the sleeping arrangement was a shared air mattress on an open second story floor amongst a group of other people, it was pretty nice to wake up to a sunrise and wind sweeping down the Valley.

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Orientation ended last weekend and we have actually just wrapped up our first week of work back in Panama City.  It has been a good.  I’ll post about it next, so that you can get a little better idea about what Kalu Yala is and what I am doing.  Until next time!

So this is my first blog posting…ever. Forgive me if it’s a bit lackluster, but I think 2013 will be a year of firsts for me. Never flew before (I was 9 months old, doesn’t count), never been abroad before. I’ve never been in a tropical rain forest, rode a horse, or lived in such a b-e-a-utiful city either.

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I don’t think I’ve been handed so much responsibility before, especially as quickly as things are happening here in Panama City. Our business intern program went from 0-110% in one morning, literally. Now we’re smack-dab in the middle of writing marketing proposals, doing research, and collaborating to create new business plans and modeling. We’re having meetings with people we don’t know about things we don’t know. And just when I think I start to have grasp on everything, this morning I get to add architectural programming to the list; and to be quite frank, I know absolutely nothing about that (yet).

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But it’s all good! I’m the kind of person to get bored easily sometimes, so this whole “keeping me on my toes” thing is equal parts frightening and intoxicating. It’s especially satisfying to get a break at the end of a day of hard work. And with an entirely new city / country to explore, playing can be hard work too. But we’ve all found some interesting things to do, whether that be chilling at the Hard Rock Hotel pool overlooking the city to hiking out to the gorgeous valley to have a swim in the Pacora River. We even did a bit of multitasking in our down time to work on a new promotional video for Kalu Yala. The video was too large to attach, so here’s a link to youtube. Watch it!

Kalu Kala Internship – The First Week

Overall, I’m having an amazing time here. The people are all awesome, the culture and food are both delicious, and I don’t know how I could ask for too much more. With a TEDx event in the works, building projects with borderline ridiculous due dates, and a general upbeat, do-or-die attitude of everyone here, I’ve loved every minute of my first week. With week two approaching, I’m looking forward to a whole new set of experiences. Oh yeah, and I’ve also never done market research in pajamas before today either.

As the Sassy Italian lady that I am, food is something very important in my life. Before I left home, my chef friends made jokes about eating iguanas roasted on a spit…and I am happy to say that no reptiles have been harmed in the feeding of the 20 wild Valley interns.

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The staple meal in Panama is arroz, frijoles y patacones, (rice, beans, and fried plantains.) and occasionally  some form of meat (no iguanas yet,guys). Largo is the resident Chef for the Valley crew, and let me tell you, I have never seen such amazing food, especially from a camp stove. With no running water( not yet, at least), no refrigeration, and the closest market is about 35 minutes away, I am convinced that Largo is a wizard.

Just a few examples of our meals:

Breakfast- eggs, cereal, cinnamon french toast, blueberry pancakes, fresh mandarin, fresh grapefruit

Lunch- Burritos, grilled cheese, veggie soup, rice and bean, veggie kabobs, mac and cheese with churrizo, watermelon, pineapple, patacones, papaya

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Dinner- spaghetti, chicken alfredo, stir fry, pizza, grilled pork chops and mashed potatoes, salad, rice and beans, cheese veggie soup

Drink options- Strong black coffee, water, gatorade mix, tang mix or,warm beer, cheap rum, and boxed wine(if you ration properly for the duration of the trip)

With the kitchen in the center of the farm, and the orchard a short hike away, the idea of farm to table living has never been so clear. Every meal is a masterpiece in the Valley.

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The bamboo forest is an easy 20 minute hike from base camp. It’s quite a tranquil retreat backed up against a wide shallow part of the Pacora River with a shaded area in between two lots of bamboo stalks.

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A big reason for making the trip was to harvest poles to set up Beersbee, our Botswana as our Minnesotan, Ian, calls it. It was one of the  Field Day Spring 2013 events, and it was a blast! (http://www.beersbee.org/index.html)

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Ultimately though we learned that we have some serious crafters on our hands! Some of the things that were constructed were a candle stick holder (which quickly turned into drumsticks later in the night), a cup, and an awesome straw that is PERFECT for drinking out of freshly picked coconuts! Bamboo will be further utilized in framing out some nets and possibly fishing poles for my fish identification project.

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Gallivanting for bamboo is only a small adventure of the many that have already been and will be created, but it truly is the little joys out here that keep a grin on my face.

No paved roads, no lines of cars, and no tall buildings blocking your view. The Valley is a patch of paradise.  Minimally developed but open to all possibilities, this jungle home is the perfect place for the mind to develop and innovative ideas to take hold.  Within just a week, countless plans for research projects, for outdoor activities and for farm development have sprouted.  It doesn’t hurt that every intern is an amazing individual who not only share the desire to learn new things but also have a wealth of knowledge to share with everyone.  Being here often feels like a dream, here’s to never waking up!

So you’re looking through your email. There’s the typical junk mail, usually consisting of a sale on something you don’t want or need (it is on sale though…). The forwarded emails, which you probably won’t even look at. Those “terrible consequences” for not passing the message along won’t happen if you don’t read it at all, right? And then of course there are the important ones that you can only get to by searching through all the other junk. Bills, messages from friends, and the opportunity emails, which are easy to come by when you’re still on your colleges email list.

Being a recent grad, I have to pick through the undergrad only and campus oriented opportunities but every now and then I come across something amazing. On one particular day, as I sifted through my email, which was mostly junk, I came across an email about Kalu Yala. At first glance I thought, “Kalu what?” Having never heard of it, my curiosity was piqued. I read through the email and was hooked. Three months in Panama, doing an internship of my choice during the dead of winter in Pennsylvania?! Why yes, I’d love the opportunity.

So I applied, got accepted for the Spring 2013 agriculture internship, and in no time at all I was in Panama soaking in the beautiful weather and culture. I’ve been here almost 2 weeks now and the experience has been amazing. Being a valley intern, you have to hike in and out for each stint. It’s literally an uphill both ways type of hike (thankfully it doesn’t snow in panama). I didn’t expect the beauty that I saw once I got to the top. It made all the work worth it. Every where you turn here there is something else to explore. It’s a beautiful jungle play ground. I definitely can’t wait for our next valley stint and the adventures I’m sure it will hold.

Hi Reader,

Welcome to my Kalu Yala journal. My name is Daniel, and the purpose of my article here is to inform you about my mission here in Panama City. My mission is to be an intern here at the Kalu Yala company, which specializes in ecotourism, research in the biological sciences, and community outreach such as by teaching English to the native population here in Panama. I affiliate with the “Living Systems” biology program. Regarding this division, our goal is to go beyond simply improving the agricultural sustainability of this region via manual labor. Our vision is to professionally research and then apply the theoretical principles of environmentalism that would best lead to the greatest yields in crop harvests, as well as to protect the flora and fauna of this ecosystem.

Our company controls three command centers: one in Panama City, another in San Miguel, and finally a research station in the jungles of Kalu Yala. Each center enables us to exert our influence respectively in the urban, suburban, and rural areas of this country. Whereas the company’s marketing efforts are concentrated in Panama City and the community outreach programs focus on the suburbs around San Miguel, my mission of researching the biological phenomena of this region has led me to spend most of my time in the jungles of Kalu Yala.

As of today (2013 January 26, Saturday) I have completed the orientation phase of becoming a team member of jungle research expeditions at the Kalu Yala field station. Among the training that has so far been provided is to become familiarized with the basics of camping survival skills, such as in properly treating drinking water with iodine or knowing how to find our way back to the base should we get separated and lost. Besides camping skills however, the highlighted skill that may best characterize our division is our investigative ability to make use of scientific journals of previous researchers in this region in order to determine topics of research that will further maximize our understanding of how to best improve the ecological sustainability of this region.

Besides having skills or knowledge in the biological sciences, other invaluable skills that may soon come in handy is horseback riding, as it would ease the effort of traversing the hour-long mountainous path from San Miguel to Kalu Yala on foot. (Hopefully our company may soon have enough horses available for our interns to use after the ecotourism division builds stables and the perennial means of caring for the equine.) In the meantime, to work here in this Living Systems division, it is necessary to have a strong body capable of walking that mountain trail. We make sure to factor in whether or not we will be able to carry our own 30 kg (70 lb) hiking packs just in case, although we have one carriage as of now as a designated means of transporting our research gear that is being taken to the station.

One of the most unambiguously peripheral skills that enhance our abilities to accomplish our mission is the ability to speak good Spanish. Near the field station, there live several indigenous natives who own jungle ranchos. Some of these locals go by names such as Don Diadro, Ramon, or Diego. To be able to communicate with these locals provide substantial help to all our divisions. Especially for our Living Systems group, being able to speak Spanish has allowed us to speak with governmental officials in the Ministry of Health (Ministria de Salud) for licenses to work in this region, and to identify what types of machinery are allowed to be applied in the jungle. Examples of such licenses include a fishing license for ichthyologic studies on aquatic river life in this rainforest, or a permit to cut down trees to access new regions of the jungle. Besides using Spanish to help further the Living Systems Program, the ability to speak Spanish improves every aspect of our lives here in Kalu Yala. Clearly, the importance of Spanish cannot be understated.

Among the other coworkers here in the Kalu Yala program, our Living Systems Program is comprised of members from all over the U.S. Our team is comprised of members from New York, Chicago, and Washington D.C. Our current specialists hold degrees in Global Sustainability, Environmental Engineering, Biology, Sociology (concentration in Organizational Leadership), and Education. With this eclectic range of skills, it is certain that great accomplishments can be made for Kalu Yala.

Being an Outdoor Recreation professional I believe experience is the key to life. When we are experiencing we are engaging, we are engaging and shaping our Quality of Life. The four salient domains that shape our Quality Of Life are physical, social, emotional, and spiritual needs. Kalu Yala is shaping my life in each and every one of these domains. I have experienced more in the last two weeks than I might have ever experienced in my entire life. There is not a day that goes by that is boring or a day where the sun is not shining. Out in the Valley everything is made out of energy. The energy in the Valley is something I cannot even explain. There is so much energy with all the amazing people I wake up to each day. This positive energy attracts positive thoughts, opportunities and experiences that I will cherish for the rest of my life. To break it down and explain myself a bit better let me talk about what I have done so far. I have rode a horse for the first time, jumped off huge rocks into the rio, have made incredible friends, have learned so much about nature, learned more about myself, drank out of a real coconut, cut down bamboo, and cant forget about the awesome sand runs to repair the volleyball court. All I got to say is this is just the beginning. I can’t even imagine how my life is going to play out in the next 3 months. Definitely the start of something new and I’m just here to enjoy the ride and live life the right way.

I found them.

When I was growing up, they were the super cool adventure kids. You remember those kids? The one who were unique in everyway. The ones who knew about TOMS shoes before everyone else but didn’t make a big deal out of it. The ones who shop at thrift stores. The ones who casually mentioned they studied abroad in Vietnam in high school. The ones who threw up a tent in their backyard at an insanely young age and slept in it for fun. The ones who were really good at sports and you didn’t realize it and then one day you see them in gym class and think “dang…they are really good at sports.”

I found where they went: Kalu Yala in Panama.

It’s been just over a week, and my time here has been filled with adventures and experiences. It’s been filled with delicious food and videos going viral (please, no autographs). It’s been filled with city buildings scraping at the sky, small towns bustling with activity and a valley brought to life by a motley crew. But the absolute best thing about my experience and what ties it all together has been the people.
It’s not every job where you think that your boss is probably one of the coolest people you’ve met which makes it weird cause I haven’t said that to her and she needs to proofread this. It’s not every early morning meeting that is had with the same people that you shared a beer with and had amazing conversations with only a few hours before. This is Kalu Yala.

It’s not every office that has a large table where everyone works together: CEO Jimmy Stice, President Kate Stewart and myself Education/Business intern. It’s not every office where the office water cooler banter is replaced by trips to the grocery store and their outrageously delicious ice cream. This is Kalu Yala.

Outrageously delicious icecream? Not Kalu Yala. But it’s next door. Close enough.

So far my experience has been great, and I’ll write more details in later blog posts, but for now the one defining thing has been the people.

The people here are examples of living life to the fullest, of living life for others, and of being really great while doing all that. There’s Alix who had a bright future in the Hollywood management business but wanted something more fulfilling. Max, who with his long Prince Charming locks lives in the valley and handles him as such a Panamian that the people don’t even call him a Gringo anymore. There’s also Largo the 5 star chef working only with a grill on the beach and making porkchops so good that pigs on the farm were like “yep, that smells delicious.” There’s Courtney (the aforementioned boss) who quietly murmured that she did research at the most prestigious east coast school, and played college soccer and has probably done other incredible things like find Waldo in those pesky books but is too humble to admit it. I share my room with Austin, who 9 days after returning from his internship heads off to Uganda as part of Peace Corps. This was Cory’s, my other roommate and member of the critically acclaimed “Empanada Boys” R&B group, first time on a plane yet I’ve never seen someone so comfortable in a foreign country . There’s Annie who started an arts festival in Mexico and Shane who was a music agent in the States before coming here. The stories and people and personalities go on and on and on.

As for me, I’m just glad I found them.

I hate labels, and while that is a lame statement to start my first blog with, it’s true. Being cliché is lame and calling out cliché behavior is lame too. What am I to do then to describe my first 12 days in Panama as a vegan and primarily raw-foodist? I should probably just chuck disclaimers and proclaim it to the readers of the Kalu Yala blogosphere: I AM A RAW FOODIST VEGAN LIVING IN PANAMA

What does this mean? I eat primarily fruits, vegetables, nuts and seeds uncooked–no animal products including any animal flesh (no I do not eat raw meat or fish), milk, eggs, cheese or honey. Sometimes if I’m in a bind I’ll eat rice, squash or cooked sweet potatoes. Besides crazy nutritional questions like where do you get your protein, you might be wondering how I’m making that happen here in Panama.

If you’ve ever been to Panama, you know there is no shortage of fruit. You can find it practically anywhere on the way to any place. If it’s not growing where you are, it’s being sold nearby. In the city there are many options. The closest to Hispania is Riba Smith although I must warn you, a lot of the cut produce and veggies taste like soap. My fellow interns are probably laughing at this, but it’s true! I have yet to discover the source of this mysterious soapy taste, but be forewarned! The watermelon sometimes does not taste like watermelon on the surface. Smaller markets called chinos which are like small convenience stores usually have a small selection of fruits like bananas and possibly slices of melon for 40 cents a pop. The best place to go in the city by far is San Felipe marketplace. A four dollar taxi ride each way, it is the best and cheapest place I have found for fresh produce. There are more pineapples and watermelons here than you have ever seen in one place in your life, and while the produce may be different depending on what time of year you visit, you’re sure to find something tasty, fresh and cheap.

The options are a bit more limited in San Miguel. The chinos here typically have a small selection of fresh produce like tomatoes, cucumbers, bananas and sometimes pineapple if you go to the chino at the top of the hill. Another town called La Mesa has a few options, and is only a 25 cent bus ride from San Miguel. If you walk 5 minutes from the mini super you will find a road side stand with the loveliest people ever selling bananas, watermelons, oranges, pineapples, vegetables and more.

The valley was the hardest place for me to eat because I had to carry a lot of my food in, which ended up getting smushed. I will say though that even smushy disgusting looking bananas here taste great. The valley does have some great options for fruit though, and they are working on expanding their food production. They have a mandarins, grapefruits, oranges, tamarind, and guanabana.

Overall I’ve found my experience eating a vegan diet made up of mostly fruit to be pretty easy here in Panama. It is definitely cheaper than the US, which is definitely a plus. It would probably also depend on what fruits you are eating. Obviously more tropical and native fruits to Panama will be cheaper (and tastier!).

A Study of Real Estate in Casco Viejo

By Bertie Herrtage

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Introduction

When looking into the various options for the use of Real Estate for Kalu Yala in Casco Viejo, it came to me when researching that the information available was very disjointed. In order for Kalu Yala to be able to make investment Real Estate decisions in Casco Viejo I have created a document that includes all of the necessary knowledge of the area that one must have before making such a decision.

My aim here is to create an informative document that will serve the company as a resource for making Real Estate decisions in Casco Viejo. Options of Real Estate investments

1)   Diversifying the income portfolio (renting properties)

2)   Alternative site locations

3)   Office

4)   Investors club

The History of Casco Viejo

The original settlement of the city was Panama Viejo, found in what are now the suburbs of the modern day city, situated east along the coast from Casco Viejo. Panama Viejo was founded in 1519 by the conquistador Pedrarías d’Ávila, to serve (according to UNESCO research) as a “commercial and administrative centre” due to its consolidated key position on the transoceanic route between Spain and the Americas.

Upon attack by the infamous privateer Sir Henry Morgan in 1671, its population deserted the city after the decision was made by Governor Juan Perez de Guzman to burn it and flee to keep the wealth and prowess of the city from falling into his hands.

A few years later in 1673 Antonio Fernández de Córdoba initiated the building of a new settlement (Casco Viejo) on a small peninsula nearby which was superior in position and provided the necessary fortifications that its predecessor lacked (see fig.1).

Casco Viejo is considered to be the ‘cultural gem’ of Panama City. Its rich colonial history has left behind a wealth of architecture, predominantly Spanish and French colonial buildings studded with the odd examples of art deco and neoclassical styles.

Across the 18^th century (1737, 1756 and 1781) the new city was severely damaged by fires. This had the unfortunate effect of stunting its urban development and expansion. The Californian ‘gold rush’ began in 1848 bringing a great number of people to Panama. It was thought preferable by many to sail from the Atlantic to Panama City and venture across the isthmus via mules and canoes, to await a ship on the Pacific side to take them to San Francisco, rather than endure crossing the North American continent by railroad. In this small city men from all over the world were converging at once. The economy enjoyed a large boost in this period and by 1855 the Panama railway spanning the Isthmus of Panama was finished and the Pacific Mail Steamship Company began regular service from San Francisco to Panama. Improved infrastructure facilitated the journey of miners to California and the return of Gold bullion to the East coast thereby increasing significantly the wealth, commerce and mercantile activities of the hosting country.

In 1880 it was the French who were the first to attempt the construction of the Panama Canal, a waterway that would span 48 miles across the Isthmus thus saving ships an 8000-mile journey around the bottom tip of South America. The project was given the go-ahead by the Colombian Government who controlled the area at the time, financed by private investors and run by Compagnie Universelle du Canal Interocéanique. At the head of this project was the champion of Egypt’s Suez Canal Ferdinand de Lesseps. The French were unsuccessful in their pursuits due to a fundamental lack of the correct machinery and logistical knowledge to co-ordinate such a project in a foreign environment.

Not long after the Americans began to make their own plans to build the canal but the Colombian government in power blocked their efforts. The U.S. supported a revolution that led to Panamas independence in 1903. The Hay-Bunau-Varnilla Treaty was signed soon after which gave the U.S. perpetual control of the canal and 5-mile zones either side. The Canal was built between 1904 and 1914, bringing an influx of wealth into Panama that enabled the development and expansion that the city had previously lacked. To accommodate the automobile and build newer and more modern housing, the city spread into the suburbs. Its new CBD situated NE further along the coast left Casco Viejo (the old quarter) isolated on its peninsular, where it was subject to great deterioration as business moved away and the buildings emptied.

Up until the mid 1990s Casco Viejo was basically forgotten, except by adventurous tourists who entered to glance upon cultural heritage sites, monuments and plazas. The hopes to become the next Cartagena – fully restored colonial city – seemed unachievable. But the government decided to take further action to encourage restoration in the famously beautiful, yet neglected historic neighbourhood.

With the passage of Law 9 on August 27, 1997, special restoration incentives were applied to real estate in Casco Viejo.  Furthermore, the same year UNESCO chose Casco Viejo as one of its 46 World Heritage sites. Combined, these two aspects gave Casco Viejo the boost it needed to attract investors, developers and homebuyers.

During its 300 years as the heart of Panamanian life, the peninsula developed a unique legacy of Spanish, French and American colonial, neoclassical and art nouveau architecture. Certain styles, particularly the narrow 16^th through 18^th century houses with internal courtyards, are specific to the region. So, while people often refer to Casco Viejo as a “colonial city”, the current cityscape is more dominated by French and Early American architecture, which, UNESCO points out in its justification of world Heritage status, “lends it a special quality that other colonial cities in Latin America lack.”

UNESCO drew a connection between this eclectic collection of architectural styles and Panama’s historical role as a world cross roads, with each style representing a boom in inter-oceanic trade through the Isthmus. This collection of architecture and the people who inhabit it are clear reflections of Panama’s fascinating cultural makeup and an important part of our common heritage.

Sectors of Casco Viejo

The map drawn up in 1679 defines the area of the oldest part of Casco Viejo quite well. It is here that most of the surviving colonial buildings of interest reside. The UNESCO protection embodies not only the buildings but the street plans as well. There are 940 colonial buildings here about 800 of which are protected. The two areas that make up Casco Viejo are San Felipe and Santa Ana, El Chorrillo is a further extension that is not included (see map above).

San Felipe

This is the oldest part of the city, where the great sea wall surrounding the tip of the peninsular was built in 1671 to fortify and protect it from further pirate attacks. This area has undergone the most restoration in recent years. There is a vibrant night culture here that has been compared to that of New York’s Soho 20 years ago. The nights here buzz with Panamanians, Ex-pats and tourists, converging once again in this now fashionable part of the city which is dripping with bars and restaurants and will continue to do so once more work is completed. The old quarter serves now as social and business hub for Panama’s creative class.

The artistic energy flows freely here, “Thankfully for Panama, it’s starting to happen here. A young class of creative locals combined with the growing affluence of Panamanian society, the rapid influx of people from around the world and a gorgeous UNESCO World Heritage Site are laying the foundations of what could eventually be one of the world’s great cultural districts.” Panama Info.

Real estate prices have rocketed here, where 7-10 years ago you could pick up an apartment for $40,000 you would now expect to pay at least 10 times that much. Another spike in property here is unlikely, however investments made will continue to grow as more of the area is restored.

Santa Ana

Santa Ana is a later addition to the Peninsula, this area is not the architectural gem that San Felipe is but it serves the local population with areas of cheaper housing and basic markets. It is not part of the creative and exciting movement of San Felipe yet it does still hold home to many new and exciting businesses that will inevitably lead to its expansion and increase in value. After the restoration of San Felipe is completed the attention of the state will turn to Santa Ana. Supposedly the Cinta Costera phase 3 developments will help bring change to this area.

Spanish Colonial Architecture Features:

• Strong, straight lines and little ornamentation
• Smooth stucco walls (often painted)
• Red clay roof shingles
• Hipped or gabled roof & windows
• Plaster framing/casing around doors & windows
• Rectangular extended balconies
• Wrought-iron balcony railings
• Small outdoor courtyard within the dwelling
• Timber roof support beams (traditionally extending to exterior beneath roof)
• Small windows with wood shutters

Real Estate

Casco Viejo is not a large area. It occupies a small peninsula that is 11 blocks long and 4 blocks wide. Scattered across the peninsula are government buildings and offices, including the Presidential offices, as well as 4 plazas, a few cathedrals, a couple boutique hotels and many restaurants and bars, in addition to apartments, condos and limited office space. Currently, about 30 – 40% of the buildings have been renovated and restored, and those that have not, and are still inhabitable, are either occupied by low-income families, squatters or a mix of both. However, large portions of the historic buildings remain nothing more than just a street facing façade. It is expected that within the next 5 years the percentage of renovated and restored buildings in Casco Viejo will be closer to 70%.

Cost of Casco Viejo Real Estate

Ten years ago, buildings in need of complete renovation and restoration could be bought for as little as $40,000 and those were even with an ocean view. Now, you can expect to pay close to ten times that amount. Buyers can anticipate paying from $150 to $350 + per square meter for non-restored buildings and $450 to $1,000 per square meter for newly renovated and restored buildings and condos. The cost of restoration, including construction materials, labour, architectural plans, and any incidentals for a building in Casco Viejo could add up to be well over $500,000 for a 3 story, 3,000 square meter building.

The value of real estate in Casco Viejo has skyrocketed in the last ten years, and the increase is expected to continue, albeit at a much more modest rate. Contributing factors to the climb in real estate value are as follows: Casco Viejo is the second most visited tourist attraction in Panama. The first is the Canal.

As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it earns a respectable place on the map of international tourist dentations, as well as an added bonus for foreigner investors and developers. The neighbourhood has become the cultural and artistic lungs of Panama City. Casco Viejo is to Panama City what SOHO was to New York City 20 years ago. The trendy restaurants, cafes, bars and art galleries will surely continue to attract more people.

Law No. 9 – Restoration Incentives for Casco Viejo

Law No. 9, established in 1997, was created to incentivize investors to restore buildings in Casco Viejo. In order to benefit from the incentives, the investments must have been made between August 1997 and August 2007. Therefore, the incentives do not apply to current investments.

This investment law had the following features:

–       Owners of buildings or land located in Casco Viejo are exempt from income tax on profits earned (capital gains) from the sale of buildings or land, if such sale is made before Aug. 2007.

–       If after five (5) years from the time of transfer, the new owner has failed to rebuild or restore the building, the Department of Revenue will proceed to apply the tax waived with legal interest and penalties involved.

–       The landlord or investor who pays compensation (indemnity payment) to evicted residents shall be entitled to a refund through a tax credit. Indemnity payments are calculated by the government according to the resident’s dwell time.

–       Preferred interest mortgage loans are offered for real estate restoration projects in Casco Viejo.

–       A 30 year real estate tax exemption was awarded to property owners in Casco Viejo

–       Owners who restored property and resold were exempted from the real estate transfer tax.

–       The profits generated by commercial, professional or industrial activities in Casco Viejo have a 10 year tax exemption.

–       The equipment and materials used in the construction, restoration, and equipping, will be exempt from the Import Duties.

Casco Viejo Real Estate Restoration Guidelines

Beyond the incentives the government of Panama set to attract investors and developers, they also set stringent guidelines for the restoration of properties in Casco Viejo. The Directorate of Heritage of the National Institute of Culture (INAC) is tasked with the administration of all Casco Viejo restoration standards and guidelines. One such guideline created is that all edifices built before 1940 cannot be demolished, only restored.

All restoration plans and blueprints must be submitted by a licensed architect to INAC for approval. If approved, the plans will then need to receive additional approval from the municipality which reviews the buildings infrastructure, including electricity, plumbing, etc. The entire approval process usually takes less than three months; however, once you add up the time to create the plans, plus any potential bureaucratic failures, it could easily take 6 months.

Real Estate Development Companies in Casco Viejo:

If you are not interested in restoring a building there exist many options to buy modern condos is nicely restored and renovated buildings. Many Panama City realtors operate in Casco Viejo and it should not be difficult to find an agent to show you around. The majority of the restoration in Casco Viejo is done by a few development companies, some who specialize in only developing properties in Casco Viejo.

List of Casco Viejo developers:

BASIS Panama – Social Investments

Compania Inmobiliaria San Felipe, S.A.

Conservatorio, S.A. Goldmann&Goyochea- Habitat Developmens

Historical Projects

Isla Palenque

Two Oceans Property Consultants, S.A.

Salzburg Development S.A

Investment Potential

Casco Viejo is certainly the best Real Estate Investment you can make in Panama and perhaps even in Latin America. It is perhaps one of the last of the Spanish Colonial Cities to be restored, and there are few places in the world that can match its charm. Casco Viejo is a cultural launch pad; much the same way the neighbourhood of SOHO in New York City was (and still is) during the 1960’s and 1970’s.

Even with the global recession, prices have shown no sign of slowing in Casco Viejo, and interest and investment has barely missed a step. Panama, which has one of the highest credit ratings in Latin America, has the most stable democratic government and economy in all of Latin America, and is the largest banking centre in the Southern Hemisphere, is an ideal place for Real Estate Investment or just a great place to live.

Banks, although they have stricter lending policies than you would find in the USA or Western Europe, are willing to lend on average up to 70% for Real Estate Investments. The process of getting a loan is lengthier here than in some other places, but with patience and a lawyer, very manageable. There are well over 100 banks to choose from in Panama when shopping for a loan, both foreign and domestic.

Whether you are interested in buying a fully restored apartment with all the luxuries or a 300-year-old building with little left but a street front facade, Casco Viejo has it. At this moment only about 30 – 40% of the buildings have been renovated from Calle 1 (1st Street) to Call 12 (12th Street), which is the most attractive area. But it is likely that this area will expand quickly in the next few years. You can also expect then in the next 24 months the percentage of renovated buildings in the area mentioned would be closer to 80%. The buildings that are restored are creating terrific rental opportunities.

Example of buying and selling real estate

To Rent: $1800 per/month 148 m/sq 2 bedrooms and 2.5 bathrooms San Felipe

To Buy Restored: $419,000 156 sq/m 2 bedrooms and 2.5 bathrooms San Felipe

To Buy an Un-restored Building: $800,000 284 sq/m 4 apartments + commercial space + parking San Felipe

According to Hache Uve one of Casco’s most prestigious firm of architects the general rule of thumb for the cost of restoration for a building such as this is $1200/per sq m. The margins may be a lot smaller than they were 10 years ago, however, a basic feasibility study on a generic colonial building in this area indicates that there is still potential for a 20-30% profit.

It is clear that San Felipe is the state’s priority as it is the most historical part (Casco Antiguo) and is the cities centre for tourism. On completion the state will turn its attention to Santa Ana the secondary area of Casco Viejo expanded out of San Felipe. The property here is comparably cheaper, it is considered of secondary status and worth to that of San Felipe, however, its restoration will attract further investment and the area will also see a large increase in value.

Casco Viejo Lifestyle

As aforementioned earlier Casco Viejo is reminiscent of an earlier 1960’s SOHO. A fashionable bohemian scene has blossomed from the easy charm and electric pulse of this place. The governments own restoration incentives have drawn in copious businesses and investment to bring this colourful scene out of the shadows. The days are full of lazy afternoons spent at the cafes and galleries while the nights are alive with the hum of busy bars and Latin rhythms of the Americas. Most of the buildings restored have transformed into the bars, restaurants, clubs and cafes that feed this culture.

Investors and business owners have made a great use of some the property in Casco. Those more generic colonial buildings that have been restored allow for businesses to slip in readily. Those buildings of more of an awkward nature have also been able to attract business, using their uniqueness as a selling point. For example the club Villa Augustina is only the former shell of a building that now serves as an open bar, dance and performance area. The space has been and can be used for a multitude of different events, meaning the owner is able to tap into a few different markets, using its ability for diversity to a variable income stream. Casco’s uniqueness and diversity is the reason for such a multitude of different businesses that have tailored the architecture to meet their needs.

The future of Casco Viejo

i) Cinta Costera development

Panama City Bay is undergoing a transformation. The impressive endeavour began 3 years ago in an effort to correct sewage and waste systems, alleviate congestion by bypassing crowded city streets and give the coastline a much-needed facelift. At a cost of about $200 million and 26 hectares of reclaimed land, today, three years after the start of construction, the Cinta Costera or Coastal Belway boasts a 6-lane highway with viaducts, parks, pedestrian crosswalks, a promenade, bike line, basketball courts, fountains and gardens.

Encouraged by the results, the government of Panama has decided to extend the project further and have proposed to construct new traffic lanes and a tunnel commencing roughly where the Cinta Costera ends and finishing up at the Bridge of the America’s. The plan, about 3 miles in length, would transform those areas in and along its path into prime real estate for residences, tourism and commercial businesses. The new project, with a value of approximately $777 million, is fully funded by revenues approved and set aside by the government and congress of Panama.

ii) Phase 3 of the Cinta Costera development

This is a very controversial topic and one that is hard to distinguish whether the correct investigation has been undertaken by the authorities as to the affects of such a project on this historical centre. The previous legislation that was in place to protect an area of such historical importance seems to have been bypassed or interpreted differently to belittle the cases of the opposition. Such a case was noted by the UNESCO report done in June 2012. The States letters ‘indicate that the proposal falls under the criteria of cultural landscape, in order to allow the continued development of the property. It must be remembered that the property was not registered as a landscape, but as a group of historical monuments’. This seems to have an affect on the land use designation for the area enabling certain planning documents to be pushed forward.

Three options have been suggested to incorporate the new ring road

i)              A tunnel to the other side

ii)             A causeway that would not infill the land

iii)           An infill of the water around Casco Antiguo and the road

The tunnel option has been deemed to expensive by the state, the causeway option would preserve Casco Viejo’s connection to the sea but would have the negative affect of diminishing the shoreline of the modern city and the last option to infill the land between the ring road and the shore is considered to be the most damaging to both the integrity and landscape of the historical site.

Furthermore, it is expected additional impact to the area, derived from the proposed new use as a parking area. Regarding the marine viaduct, the report indicates that it involves a great visual impact, morphological and aesthetic and its relevance as historical peninsula would be lost irreversibly. However, the report argues, the project is an opportunity for dialogue between past and present. Not really identify any tangible benefit.

The Governments brief on the project

The Cinta Costera Phase III is an important part of the new road network of the City of Panama, for complete communication axis comprising the Cinta Costera Phase I and the Southern Corridor, linking the area to the west of the province of Panama. This new route will become an alternative to the Avenue des Martyrs, so divide the large flow of vehicles entering every day for the Bridge of the Americas, separating vehicles heading north from going south. The connection project was also designed to encourage coastal development and add value to the neighbourhoods of San Felipe, Santa Ana and El Chorrillo. The project includes the following components: Improving the Avenida Balboa, maintaining the Cinta Costera Phase I and II, tourism Breakwater, New Bridge Avenue Poets and Marino. All these components are designed to run independently.

iii) Current projects in the pipeline

I made an appointment with one of the primary property developers in the area ‘Arco Properties’ to take me around Casco Viejo to see the level of development and number of projects in the area. Each and every block in the San Felipe area is busy with restoration. The majority of buildings have been in fact restored, leaving those that haven’t in between and outside those that have. This creates a very strong contrast, helping to envisage how things will look once they start filling in the blanks (see photos  above).

Each of these projects underway is to end up as a new hotel, luxury apartment or nightclub etc. The number of hotels that have sprung up or are in the process of doing so hints that Casco Viejo will become even more of a honey pot tourist destination. The numerous hotels serving to house a great many more tourists and the art galleries, cafes, bars, nightclubs and restaurants will serve to occupy and attract a variety of demographics.

This is a good demonstration of the quality and style of the restoration of the streets and buildings in comparison to the streets that are yet to undergo the same treatment. The blanks that are left will in a short period of time undergo the same treatment, slowly blending everything together to form this new and much smarter image of Casco Viejo. Considering the rate at which projects are reaching completion in San Felipe (usually 3-4 years), the available stock of residential and commercial space will increase, attracting more businesses and investors.

Hotel Central

One of the most prominent developments includes that of the Hotel Central located in Plaza Cathedral. Built in 1874 it was considered an architectural landmark in Panamanian and Latin American history. The hotel is steeped in history, giving its custom to both aristocrats and the businessman and diplomats who are responsible for opening Panama up in the era of the Californian gold rush. This is a 140-room flagship development site for the area, drawing in further investment and business interest to restore the buildings and plaza around it.

Casco Viejo has already undergone a huge amount of change and restoration. I’m sure a big question on everybody’s lips is ‘has the market here peaked? And what effect will the Cinta Costera phases 3 development have on Casco Viejo?’

Clara Hardin of Arco Properties was the correct person to talk to about this as her company deals with the selling of real estate in Casco Viejo and is partnered with the developer Conservatorio S.A. Clara informs me that over the last few months she has been busy talking to developers and business owners around Casco. The general feeling being that Casco will survive and continue to grow regardless of the external factors which are controlled by the government. No doubt protests will still happen from time to time against issues that adversely affect Casco and its residents. As more buildings are restored into residences, offices, hotels and commercial spaces, there will be even more reason for journalists to write about the historic city as well as for tourists to visit. Casco Antiguo is already one of the destination places to live. It has a unique cache for those who like living in such a fashionable community and will continue to serve as the cultural centre it has become.

Clara from a real estate brokers perspective is hoping that prices will go up slowly as restorations take place and the infrastructure is renewed.

“In recent transactions, due to the limited inventory, buyers have found properties that they ‘love’ and have made reasonable offers that have been accepted. What this says to me is that buyers looking for bargains don’t see Casco Antiguo as offering bargains.  Our typical buyer is willing to pay a fair market price.  Looking at comparable historic cities will give you a better idea of the path Casco Antiguo is most likely to follow. With a limited supply any type of property, it is difficult to become overbuilt.  If all the un-restored buildings that have been sold in the past two years are developed within the next couple of years, the face of Casco Antiguo will be greatly changed. What hurts is speculation; buildings that are re-sold push prices up without the former owner adding value to the property.” Clara Hardin

References: http://mygeologypage.ucdavis.edu/cowen/~GEL115/115ch8.html http://content.yudu.com/Library/A1mez6/CascoAntiguoHandbook/resources/index.htm?referrerUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.yudu.com%2Fitem%2Fdetails%2F128822%2FCasco-Antiguo-Handbook-2010 http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/casco-viejo-panamas-up-and-coming-district http://www.perkinswill.com/work/panama-entertainment-district-master-plan.html http://travel.nytimes.com/2008/09/14/travel/14surfacing.html?_r=2& http://zouchmagazine.com/architecture-abroad-casco-viejo/#ixzz27PuRRGEn http://panamainfo.com/en/destinations/casco-viejo-0 http://yoamocasco.com/en/the-past-and-future-meet-in-casco-viejo/ http://www.cascoviejo.org/content/?cid=10&cat1=35&cat2=0&cat3=0&level=1&id=35 http://arcoproperties.com/casco-life/casco-future/ http://liveinvestpanama.com/panama-real-estate-news-blog/panama-multimillion-dollar-investment-casco-viejo-2337 http://www.encuentra24.com/content/panama-en/real-estate/view/guide-to-real-estate-restoration-in-casco-viejo-panama

Business Program
The Business Program at Kalu Yala provides interns with an array of opportunity in many different areas allowing them to learn, grow, connect, create value and leave Kalu Yala with something tangible.  The business interns are provided with resources and connections to make something happen for themselves and create some sort of value towards Kalu Yala, whether that be starting up a small business in the valley, fostering new relationships within the community, or working on current business projects within Kalu Yala. Interns aren’t required to do any of these projects, and are welcome to propose their own project which I will help facilitate. These are just a few ideas to get the ball rolling!

Facilitation Goals

• Consistency: Maintain consistency between the standards, rules, and goals that we state and between programs at Kalu Yala.

• Communication: Constant communication and meetings with interns and program directors to maintain consistency and allowing for comfortable avenues for feedback from interns.

• Incorporate Other Programs: To provide easy access, communication and inter-project opportunity between the programs to avoid any sort of disconnect and keep everyone connected within Kalu Yala.

• Expertise: Bring in friends and  investors of Kalu Yala, small business owners and anyone else with expertise who can share their story with interns and provide them with inspiration, contacts, and mentors in Panama.

• Activities & Community Involvement: To ensure that the interns are getting the best experience at Kalu Yala and in Panama City by getting involved with friends and organizations in the community, attending special events, parties, etc.

Projects

• Summit Event: One week, 500 person event to be held at Kalu Yala
  • Planning, organizing, and executing tasks necessary for construction of venue, and the event itself
  • Baseline site data collection for venue designers
  • Design program, operations outline, budget, and timeline for architect design charrette
  • Recreation Mgmt Plan
  • Hospitality Service Plan
  • Group Services Mgmt Plan
  • Event Plan
  • Communications Plan
  • Construction Plan

• Kalu Yala Inn- Business, Marketing, & Operation Plans: To create a business model and plans for a co-working/hotel development in Kalu Yala
  • Market research
  • Real estate description and industry standards
  • Operations Summary
  • Target Audience
  • Profit model

• Eco-tourism
  • Furthering development of existing tourism company, Jungle Adventures by Kalu Yala, with new revenue stream ideas

• Organizations Opportunity/Event
  • Establishing relationships and possible events with local non-profit organizations to further connect the community of those trying to make a difference, living healthy and sustainably

• Agro-Business Ideas
  • Product Development:  Taking something that Kalu Yala produces on the farm and turning it into a marketable product that we eventually distribute Ex:  Jam/Marmalade, Composting Fertilizer
  • Communications, outreach, marketing, operations, design and distribution of this product

Kalu Yala CEO Jimmy Stice also has several ideas for the Business Program this year for those who want to be more directly involved with the Kalu Yala land development company. I will put these in front of our interns as well:

Real Estate Related

1. Kalu Yala’s Builders Program
   1. Define builders program structure, including conceptualizing the Builders Guild
   2. Profile potential builders
   3. Create promotion plan to find and attract appropriate builders
   4. Design screening process to vet builders
   5. Design Kalu Yala Builds incubator to aid local and international builders make a successful transition into the world of Kalu Yala
2. Cottage Sales Program
   1. There are 20 special cottage lots in the Founders Village reserved as the only lots for non-investors in that village
   2. Create profiles of target audiences for this special offering (ie people under 35, entrepreneurs, farmers, etc)
   3. Design sales program to find and attract the best of this target audience
   4. Define the cottage product in a way that is of high value to the target audience
3. Plan the infrastructure charrette
   1. Learn the problems that must be solved using the conceptual master plan, prior to beginning architectural design (power, waste water, potable water, roadways, etc)
   2. Learn about the multidisciplinary design workshop format called a charrette
   3. Create an event plan based on plugging the appropriate attendees into the workshop format, including planning for investors roles in the workshop
4. Securities Sales Program
   1. Learn about Kalu Yala’s financial structure, target investor audience, business model, and current promotional plans/activities, as well as securities regulations in the US and Panama
   2. Create a separate promotional plan for finding and attracting investors to add another prong to the arsenal
5. Investor Business Plans/Pitches
   1. Use the Kalu Yala master plan, share structure, and community model to pick a building type(s) to match a business plan to
   2. Perform a feasibility study and create a resulting business plan
   3. Potentially package that business plan into a pitch deck to solicit investors

Economics Related

1. Define Kalu Yala’s business principles required of all businesses doing business in Kalu Yala or using the Kalu Yala brand (i.e. regional producers who are part of a Kalu Yala co-op).
2. Plan the first Kalu Yala Co-Op
   1. Co-ops are a big part of how Kalu Yala will enable small businesses to compete in a big business world.
   2. Identify opportunities for creating early co-ops that can include already existing regional businesses/producers at Kalu Yala
   3. Define Kalu Yala co-op goals and principles
   4. Use local context and co-op goals to identify comparable examples and blueprint Kalu Yala co-op structure and business plan
3. Local Resource Index
   1. Radiating from Kalu Yala to San Miguel to San Martin, identify and catalog locally available resources
   2. Either choose a particular resource and map its occurrence in the region or work from Kalu Yala outward cataloging all the resources that can be identified in a particular area further before expanding the study
   3. Resource examples include human resources (i.e. political leaders, craftsmen of different types, large local financial stakeholders), natural resources (i.e. extraction industries, aquifer and water resources, timber), and products (ie. locally produced food products, unique crafted goods, medical, educations, etc)
4. Draft Economic Development Plan
   1. Use Michael Shuman’s books The Small Mart Revolution and Local Dollars, Local Sense to identify the required components (guiding principles, institutions, financial and human capital) of a successful local economy that supports entrepreneurs and small businesses at Kalu Yala
   2. Chronologically order the development of these components
   3. Propose development plans for each component, starting with the first

Overall Goals

• Consistency
• Patience
• Observation
• Education and Inspiration
• Bring running water to the Kalu Yala camp in “The Valley.”
• Learn more about the biodiversity of the Tres Brazos valley.
• Improve overall sustainability.

• Make contacts with experts in the field and seek out their advice and expertise.

Projects

Water Infrastructure Projects:

• Design and build the system of PVC pipe that will draw water from the tributary to valley camp. Review the preliminary design, make improvements, and execute the plan.
• Install the pipe to bring water to camp.
• Collect water samples from the tributary and get the water tested.
• Develop a plan for filtration and purification techniques for potable water drawn from the tributary based on the water testing results.
• Design and install an irrigation system for the permaculture plot. This will be done in collaboration with Alex, farm director and the interns working on the farm.
• Get running water flowing to the kitchen sink.
• Make a plan to deal with the kitchen sink wastewater.
• Additional water project outside the valley….work on bringing potable water to the tap in the Casa Llena house in San Miguel. Get this water tested to see what kind of biological contamination we are dealing with and then devise a filtration/purification system.

Biological Sciences Projects: Continue a previous intern project cataloging the flora and fauna of the Panamanian jungle or create your own in a new area of interest. Previous topics include:

• Entymology (insects)
• Ethnobotany (plants and their traditional/medicinal uses)
• Biology binder
• Arbol de la Vida (Tree of Life) – teach the schoolchildren of San Miguel and neighboring mountain towns about biodiversity of the Panamanian jungle

Possible new topics:

• Freshwater crabs living in the streams at the top of the mountains
• Giant freshwater shrimp living in the river
• Bird biodiversity
• Amphibian biodiversity
• Fish biodiversity in the Pacora River

Other sustainability improvements and fun renewable technology projects for camp could include:

• Solar heated hot water shower.
• Solar powered lights to give us light after the sun goes down for a few hours at night and improve life in camp.
• Solar powered composting toilet.
• Design and build a rainwater harvesting system to provide an additional water source for camp.
• Develop a comprehensive wastewater plan for the valley camp.
• Research innovative irrigation, composting methods, and permaculture methods for the farm.
• Draft an EMS, Environmental Management System, for Kalu Yala.

Program Overview

As a new offshoot of the Community Outreach program, the Education program aims to focus on building our relationship with the San Miguel community through shared knowledge and a commitment to progress through education. Currently, the Education program maintains a presence in the local school by conducting regular ESL classes, while offering an adult ESL program in La Mesa. As director, I hope to achieve company goals of expanding the domains of this program to include a wider variety and definition of “education” in events and classes.

Semester Goals

1. To maintain continuity in the ESL program: build on students’ prior knowledge by planning a longer-term schedule for classes
2. To provide avenues for feedback from students on program’s structure/quality
3. To expand the definition of the Education program beyond ESL classes
4. Involve as many other Kalu Yala members as possible in working to make the Education program more “multidisciplinary”
5. To avoid an “us” and “them” paradigm of education: make it clear that we, as an organization, value many types of education (intellectual, technical, cultural, creative)
6. Facilitate bringing in third-party expertise to San Miguel
7. Establish platforms for individuals within San Miguel to share their knowledge with fellow community members

Techniques

1. Be flexible: recognize that education is a process & that plans will need to be modified to be effective
2. Be patient while working with students
3. Involve outside help: with few spring interns in San Miguel, we will need to be creative to keep the ESL/Education program fresh! Communicating with other program directors and interns regularly will be crucial
4. Research: use print & media sources liberally for program ideals
5. Establish measurable goals: How can we best track progress of the program?/How can be more comprehensive & analytical in making sure we are meeting the needs of the community?
6. Utilize spaces beyond the classroom: engage more students by regularly taking activities to La Cancha, other common outdoor spaces
7. Remember that we are always ambassadors for Kalu Yala: by living in San Miguel, we are a part of the community and our behavior reflects upon the company at all times.

List of Education Projects

1. ESL program
2. Intern projects
3. Partner School program
4. Community Education Events
5. Workshops with other KY programs
6. General Casa Yala Projects & Goals

ESL Program

1. Where are we currently with the ESL program?
2. Create a system for tracking progress in classrooms
3. Try to incorporate lessons in other subjects into ESL classes to familiarize students
   1. Teach relevant vocabulary
   2. Collaborate with other teachers
4. Show English language movies (with subtitles), e.g. Disney movies – use more multimedia sources with projector & laptop!

Intern Projects

1. Esteban Gast (co Biz/Ed intern)’s project: sociological look at education in Panama & relative significance of areas of study
   1. Set up interviews with school administrators
   2. Focus groups with students?
   3. Meet with Esteban to discuss project
2. Any other interns interested in working in schools?
   1. Community Outreach interns?

Partner School Program

1. Establish partner school program for cultural and language exchange
   1. Talk to my parents, who both work in elementary education in Massachusetts, about this
   2. Any other interns have connections to elementary schools who would like to get involved?
2. Pen Pal project?
   1. Look into the feasibility of this idea regarding the post…
3. Video blogs with classrooms in US
   1. Use my video camera to film student introductions & questions; create a schedule for this project
   2. Talk to Media coordinator at local schools in Boston

Community Education Events

1. Weekly or bi-weekly community workshop series
   1. What individuals in San Miguel have skills that would benefit their community? Talk to these people & ask whether they would like to share their knowledge to a small audience
   2. Consider asking individuals from surrounding towns, too
2. What are the barriers to students who want to pursue higher education?
   1. Are there representatives from universities in Panama City who would be willing to come speak in the town about planning for a future in education?
   2. I want to make sure I’m not being culturally insensitive, so this idea may not be appropriate

Workshops with Other Kalu Yala Programs

1. Agriculture project
   1. Work with Alex & Ag interns; his idea is on local crops & health benefits
   2. Also, expand to an afterschool agriculture workshop? Maybe gauge interest with a class, then expand to a regular workshop if possible
2. Invite interns & directors from other programs to come up with a one-day lesson/event to present to students/community at large.
   1. Work with anyone who wants to get involved to make it happen
3. Work with Kelly & Community Outreach interns to provide support, avoid redundancy, etc.
   1. Weekly meetings with progress updates? Put some mechanism in place for updating each other

General Casa Llena Projects & Goals (in progress…)

1. See Kelly’s list in CO Goals document
2. I will be adding to this list when I get to San Miguel!

Director Semester Goals

• Consistency
• Solid Work Ethic
• Leadership

Techniques

• “Lead By Example”
  • Set standards and expectations
  • Demonstrate good work ethic
  • Professionalism (maintain “boss” status, express concerns)
• Provide tasks to each intern throughout entire semester
  • Have list of projects to be started/completed over semester
    • Break down each project into tasks to be assigned to individuals on daily or weekly basis.
• Have consistent group and individual meetings
  • Openly communicate with all other directors, meet on a regular basis
  • Designate time for each individual intern (meetings or work days)
  • Program Group meetings on regular basis
  • Valley Group meetings (beginning/end each stint?)
• Be resourceful
  • Research and have plans/ideas ready for interns (demonstrate knowledge of projects/tasks)
  • Be ready to help interns/ guide them in right direction (ex. with personal projects)

Possible Outdoor Rec Projects

New Trails
Goal- to expand options and difficulty levels of trails within property

• Explore property (follow cattle paths, bush wack new paths, clear, and photograph)
• Place markers to define final trail path
• Do overall general clearing so markers noticeable, and general sense of direction determined
• Break trail into segments and begin detailing each section.

Stairs for Existing + New Trails
Goal- allow easier access along trail/ improve safety of trail

• Have min. 2 interns walk up and down entire trail, and mark areas where they find it difficult or too steep.
• Have interns determine how many stairs will be needed, record to prep materials.
• Work with interns to show them how to build first stair. Allow them to complete

Drainage for Existing + New Trails
Goal- avoid damage to trail during rainy season

• Show interns how to trench.
• Walk trail with them to show where drainage is needed, and why.

Benches/Picnic Table
Goal- to allow users to rest along trail/ at top

• Show interns where benches/table will be placed.
• Show them general design, ask for suggestions or ideas
• Determine final design
• Collect material
• Build

Species Signs
Goal- to include knowledgeable and educational awareness along trail

• Team up with Bio
• Mark out areas along trail (lookouts, canopy-covered areas, high density of trees, anywhere interesting, identify species and include on signs.
• Show example of expectations for visual appearance, allow freedom to redesign if wanted.
• Determine final design, present proposal
• Print/ laminate designs
• Collect/ purchase materials for sign structures
• Mount laminated visual on sign structure along trail.

GPS (??)
Goal-  begin mapping property

• Record coordinates of property
• Upload to software
• Make map of property/ trails

Work With Business Program
Jungle Adventures
Goal- to allow outsiders to come experience Kalu Yala

• Team up with business
• Discuss expectations/priorities for tour
• Communicate Business and OR team progressions (messenger)
• Create activities/games for visitors to enjoy (make list of available programs/activities)
• Take notes of likes/dislikes and successes vs improvements if/when groups make it out for adventure weekend.

Tour Guide
Goal- to develop understanding of trails and share with outsiders
Walk trails and get to know real well/ become expert

• Work with Bio team and Locals to get to know environment on trail
• Set up practice runs with other interns as audience, get feedback
• Guide tours on trails if/when jungle adventurers come out to property

Monumental Art Park
Goal- to add unique and attractive features to property

• Determine best location for park (review schematic village drawings, scope out cleared out areas with views.
• Design layout (benches, tables, scupltures etc)
• Begin constructing “furniture”
• Start creating artwork for park

Leisure Multi-purpose court
Goal- to provide additional recreational activities for those waiting for or not interested in volleyball

• Create survey to determine which activities would be most appropriate for community
• Determine placement of field/court, mark corners/perimeter
• Clear area, dig-u/pack down ground (remove weeds/roots)
• Add necessary drainage, etc
• Lay/ pin down plastic sheeting
• Cover with sand

Fishing
Goal- to expand recreational use of rivers, and include in  Jungle Adventure program planning

• Explore rivers/ streams
• Talk with locals to find out their knowledge on local fishing strategies
• test and document different fishing spots (include time of day, technique, species, location, etc)

Camp Hospitality
Goal- to make sure basecamp is welcoming and hospitable to all who visit

• Organize/clean camp area (maintain cleanliness)
• Improve aesthetics of basecamp (artwork, ornamental plants, etc)
• Create “camp paths” (ex. to bathroom, to ag plot, to chicken coop, etc)
• Clear overgrown areas
• Make sure all essential amenities are available at camp

Build Low Ropes Course
Goal- to test team communication and ability to work together, to get to know/trust eachother
*Use as an icebreaker for OR (first group project for OR team members)

• Have meeting and review/discuss low ropes course proposal (by Anne Shingler)
• Make list of materials needed
• Go out and harvest materials (in small groups)
• Arrange materials by project
• Break into teams and build different course structures
• Test structures as group

Semester Goals:

1. Continuation of all previously created afterschool programs and CO events

2. Expanding our presence beyond the K-6 age groups into adolescents and adults in the community

3. An increased effort to understand San Miguel culture and be respectful of it

4. Turn ideas into action

5. KEEP IN MIND KALU YALA’S FIRST AND FOREMOST OBJECTIVE: highest quality lifestyle of health and sustainability and using the momentum of our own efforts to improve quality of life for people living in San Miguel and the surrounding region. We must focus on health and sustainability in San Miguel to improve quality of life in the town, while at the same time respecting the current culture of San Miguel and keeping in mind the wishes of the current residents.

My Techniques

Communication

• With fellow directors – consistent check-ups and meetings
• With interns – weekly individual meetings and weekly Community Outreach meetings
• Within Casa Llena – weekly house meetings

Organization

• Have semester and weekly outlines made up by the beginning of the semester that will be consistently updated throughout the spring
• Create project lists and breakdowns of projects

Follow-through

• When I say I will do something – do it (and expect the same from others)
• When projects are started they should be seen through to completion.

Work Ethic

• Be an example for interns
• We won’t get anywhere unless we put in the effort, no matter what the task is

Positivity

• Confidence as a leader and in my abilities to help interns

Community Outreach Projects

1. Afterschool programs- soccer, Arbor de la Vida, music program,
2. Rio Clean-Up Day
3. Casa Llena projects
4. Beginning of Community Wellness Initiatives – (follow-up after Anthro study)
5. San Miguel Handbook

Project Goals and Task Breakdowns
1. Afterschool programs
Goals:  Continue all the programs and have consistency week to week to provide these for the kids. We’ll need to make permission slips, establish dates and times, create notices to put in the school, work cloesly with the school to continue the mutually beneficial relationship,

I would like to find a way to build soccer goals for the soccer field that was half-built but then abandoned midway due to lack of funding. Perhaps work with the Valley Interns to use natural materials.

2. Rio Clean-Up Day
Goals: Continuation of long-standing event, expansion with more community members and age groups, and make it a Kalu Yala-wide event. To do this, we’ll need to establish a day that work for all Kalu Yala interns to participate, create more signs, be more active about spreading the word, and make it more fun by planning more games for the kids while incorporating sustainability lessons

3. Casa Llena Projects
Goals: Make Casa Llena a better home for SM interns, an example of Kalu Yala ideals, a better place for Valley and City interns when they visit, and more than just a stopping place for Kalu Yala visitors and investors. We need to build upon what intern Tucker started Summer ’12. We’ll do this by expanding the garden: allowing us to eat more from the garden and use medicinal plants. We could also expand the chicken coops so we have more eggs. We want to change a lot of the inside with basic organizing, paint, and decoration through upcycling, and update the Casa Llena gate with some paint and a permanent sign.

4. Beginning of Community Wellness Initiatives
Goals: Begin to follow-up on Evan’s study. This is a long-term project, progress will be incredibly slow, but we must try to start something or there will be no improvements. With so many Community Outreach interns coming in Summer ’13 with interests in healthcare projects, to be able to facilitate what they have in mind a lot of planning and groundwork must be laid this spring. Basiccally, I must start work now to make it possible for their ideas to be realized in the future. We can do this through water improvements (with the help of Biology Director Emily who has her Masters in Sustainable Water Systems), working with women and children through health seminars (they really appreciated Max Cooper’s mom doing a Breast Cancer Awareness workshop so maybe we can continue that or try new topics), and start researching possibilities for improving the local clinic.

5. Compile Handbook of San Miguel
Goals: Create a guide to the town- I see it as part ethnography and part travel book, to be a resource for interns and something to show Kalu Yala visitors describing San Miguel culture. We have lots of previous projects to piece together and I’d like to expand on these and gather them all in one place. So far we have: Fall 2011 Intern Victor’s listing and descriptions of San Miguel men; Summer 2012 Intern Jamie’s listing and description of San Miguel women; Spring 2011 Intern Evan’s book of San Miguel plants and the Summer 2012 Anthropology Program study on rural women’s healthcare.

Mission

The Agriculture Program will be working to further building improvements and expanding the farm in all aspects.

My vision for the farm is this:

I like to view the farm as a living lab/example area.  I want there to be many different types of farming methods being used, composting techniques, different style chicken coops, etc.  The idea is that someone, either a new intern or visitor, can come see a plethora of  agricultural methods at work.  I believe this is inevitable since every semester agriculture students will have projects that add new elements to the farm based on their interests. The ultimate goal is to harvest food from all these different methods.

My Techniques at a Director

• “Lead By Example”
  • Set standards and expectations
  • Demonstrate good work ethic
  • Professionalism (maintain “boss” status, express concerns)
• Provide tasks to each intern throughout entire semester if they need assistance
  • Have list of projects to be started/completed over semester
    • Break down each project into tasks to be assigned to individuals on daily or weekly basis.
• Have consistent group and individual meetings
  • Openly communicate with all other directors, meet on a regular basis
  • Designate time for each individual intern (meetings or work days)
  • Program Group meetings on regular basis
  • Valley Group meetings (beginning/end each stint?)
• Be resourceful
  • Research and have plans/ideas ready for interns (demonstrate knowledge of projects/tasks)
  • Be ready to help interns/ guide them in right direction (ex. with personal projects)

Goals

• Demonstrate quality leadership abilities.
• Educate
• Further expand the farm in every aspect.
• Teach proper techniques for specific farm work/operations.
• Learn from the interns and assist them in their aspirations.

Projects

1. Set up and create a basic irrigation system/watering system which will be able to be added upon and expanded in future semesters.  This will be done in coordination with Emily’s Biology Team.
2. Clear out all grass/brush from inside farm area.
3. Expand current crops being grown
4. Introduce more/new crops
5. Prepare entire area within the farm fence for farming. (More garden beds/ areas for rows and mass planting.)
6. Build new major compost unit.
7. Begin to prepare official farm lay out (paths)
8. Work in far fruit orchard. Pruning/Harvesting
9. Experiment with creating our own organic fertilizer soil.
10. Look into potential Agro-Business ventures
11. Joint Community Outreach/Agriculture project.
12. Beautification Work.
13. Replanting harvested hardwood trees.
14. Expand perimeter of farm.
15. Fence work.
16. Build Chicken Coop

1) Irrigation system (In partnership with the Biology team)

• Design/create basic system for current plants
• Make it simple to expand during semester and future semesters as more crops areas are created

2) Clear/Clean up farm within fence

• Clearing out all grass and brush
• This will allow easier movement throughout farm
• Make planting, setting up of new areas, and work easier
• Makes area look neat and organized

3) Expand Current Crops (Current plantain/yucca area is a perfect permaculture example)

• Increase the area and amount of plantains and yucca.
• Set up a more organized orchard scheme for more fruit trees near agro-forest area.
• Plant more herbs, quick growing items in garden beds.
• Expand current garden beds.

4&5) Prepare areas for more crops so can introduce new crops

• Clear areas for more crops.
• Create more garden beds for quick growing crops.
• Create space for larger mass growing of crops.
• Create special garden beds for kitchen herbs.
• Determine if we can build a steppe type garden bed on slope.
• Design/create space for crop rotation.

6) Design and build major composting unit/s

• Build major composting unit specifically for all green waste cleared.
• Vermi-compost
• Passive Composting
• Active Composting

7) Design official farm lay out and paths

• Create farm map/layout of crops, specific areas, where things are.
• Work with Outdoor Recreation Program to create paths and designated walking areas throughout the farm.

8 ) Work in the mature fruit orchard

• Clearing out and cleaning up the orchard
• Prune/manicure fruit trees where needed
• Harvesting fruits.
• Teach proper pruning techniques.
• Teach proper harvesting techniques.

9) Create experimental fertilizer/potting soil:

• Create organic fertilizer using resources found locally.
• Collecting pumice stones for smashing.
• Collecting sawdust.
• Collecting rotten leaves.
• Collecting cow/horse manure.
• Collecting magic circle muck.
• Collecting soil from our soil mound.

10) Look into potential/immediate Agro-Business possibilities

• Work with business program to develop an agro business.
• What can we do with the fruit from the orchard?
• Marmalade, jelly, juices, etc. MORE  MORE MORE????
• Fertilizer/potting soil: this is my secret recipe.
• Market locally in Panama City?
• KYI marmalade in a mason jar 100% organic?

11) Joint SM/Edu/CO/ Agriculture project

• Work with San Miguel team to develop agriculture lesson plan to be taught at school one day or more.
• Teach a class about different local crops and their health benefits/affects.
• Teach the English name of local plants/crops: Platanos=Plantain.
• Afterschool farming workshop.

12) Beautification Projects

• Plant ornamental plants around ranchos, farm fence line.
• Plant ornamentals along designated walkways in farm.
• Line driveways/roads inside property with ornamentals/trees
• Head out into the jungle to explore and find exotic plants/flowers to transplant into farm.

13) Replanting hardwood trees

• Replant at hardwood trees that were cut for rancho construction.
• At least 3:1 ratio(3 trees planted for every 1 that’s cut.)

14) Expand Farm Perimeter

• Put in more fencing to increase the size of farming area.
• Keep in line with development designs

15) Fence Work

• Repair/rebuild any property fence that is damaged or non existence.
• Keeps neighbors cows/horses out of property.
• Teach proper barbed wire fence construction techniques.

16) Build new Chicken Coop

• Design new chicken coop
• Build chicken coop
• Copy old chicken coop?
• Have 2-3 chicken coops

Tasks

These tasks are specifically for Agriculture interns who may at some point during the workday find themselves with some free time or the need to try something new. They are open for any other programs interns to do as well if they find themselves in the same situation but must speak with me before setting out to do certain tasks.

• Machete Work: Clearing grass brush from inside farm perimeter and outside around ranchos, volleyball court, bathroom
• Weeding in garden beds, the small trees, and other crops to make sure nothing is getting choked out.
• Collecting worms for vermin compost.
• Collecting grass/brush for compost.
• Collecting saw dust for garden beds and bathroom.
• Collecting wood for fires.
• Collecting logs and river rocks for lining garden beds and paths.
• Collecting pumice stones from river for fertilizer.
• Uncovering and finding more areas of the awesome soil mounds created by Catalino.
• Gathering and transplanting more plantains. (Authorization Required)
• Gathering wild ginger for transplant.
• Collecting and keeping all seeds from anything we eat: fruits, vegetables, anything Largo cooks with.
• Walk fence line to look for damage.
• Collect soil from around from/property to do basic soil tests.
• Measuring and documenting weekly growth of plants.
• Collecting cow/horse manure.
• Finding and transplanting wild ornamentals (Bird of paradise)
• Cleaning chicken coop every other day
• Watering plants
• Always putting tools back after you use them.
• Keeping an eye out for any tools left out in the farm.
• Checking every day on all plants in farm and their condition
• Taking notes on plants in farm. (Height, Leaf discoloration, insects, etc)
• Harvesting wild Culantro for Largo to cook with.
• Harvesting anything that is ready in the farm for Largo to cook with. (Authorization Required)
• Interns are free to go and speak with Camillo about any opportunities to help him milk his cows.

It’s not perfect yet, but it’s on its way!

Jungle Adventure Business Marketing Plan Fall 2012

Soccer is pretty big deal in Panama. Panama City shuts down for FIFA World Cup qualifying matches. Fireworks are galore, and the bars are packed. Even the kids in San Miguel get classes cancelled in order to watch matches.

In early September, some interns and I tried to get tickets to the Panama vs. Spain World Cup qualifying match. Unfortunately, they sold out. In early November, some interns and I tried to get tickets to Panama vs. Honduras World Cup qualifying match, but again tickets were sold out. When Spain came to town for a friendly, we made sure to get tickets. I wasn’t going to miss the opportunity to attend an international soccer match. The game was on the day of our final presentations, so this was the perfect treat for us.

Because it’s Panama we had a few hiccups along the way. We had been in the cab for about 30 minutes when the driver realized he was taking us to the baseball stadium. Fortunately, the cabbie felt really bad and expertly maneuvered around town to get us quickly to the soccer stadium. We stood in line for 25 minutes because there is only one entrance into the stadium. There were food, beverage, and souvenir vendors set up the length of the entrance line, so it was nice to have a drink while standing impatiently in line. While standing in line, I was looking for a Panama jersey, but for some reason they were only selling Spain jerseys.

Missed kickoff because we were late, but when we got inside there was a lot of receipt paper strewn behind the south goal. To get the full culture experience, we sat in the section with the receipt paper and the drummers. We didn’t understand that you are supposed to hold onto the end of the roll when you toss it off the balcony. Unsurprisingly, everyone laughed at us. Beers were only $2 from the stand or $2.50 from a vendor. Vendors sold odd items such as, Taco Bell, chocolate bars, and boxes of raisins.

The crowd never stopped cheering throughout the whole game, even though the match itself was one sided. Spain won 5-1. It was pretty awkward also cheering for Spain and sitting in the overly passionate Panamanian fan section. Whatever, I cheer for good soccer.

The stadium seats 32,000, but I would estimate about 26,000 people showed up. This was surprising considering Panama was playing the best team in the world and offices in the capital were closed two hours prior to kickoff. Later after speaking with a Panamanian, I found out that the tickets were overpriced. For FIFA matches, the Federation subsidizes the cost. We paid $45 for the cheapest tickets. In a FIFA match, those same tickets would run for around $10-15.

Also, people aren’t interested in friendlies because the outcome doesn’t mean anything. Panama is ranked 46^th, in the world; therefore, Spain didn’t bring all of their best players. Even Panama’s head coach said, “The best thing to take on Spain would be to allow us to play with 22 players instead of 11.” In spite of all of this, Panama paid $3,829,800 to Spain’s football governing body, for the match to take place.

In any case, I had an awesome time; my section was electric. In the final minutes, Panama scored off a penalty kick. You would have thought Panama had just scored the winning goal. The drums were deafening, and everyone was dancing. Receipt paper and beer were flying everywhere. That single goal celebration made my stay in Panama complete.

The time has finally come for all Fall 2012 Interns to complete their semester projects and present what they have been working on while here in Panama.  It is Wednesday November 14th, and everyone is up and ready for a morning filled with fellow intern’s projects.  There are suppose to be three presentations starting at 10:00 that morning.  The first person to present was Whitney Warner, the second was Bertie Heritage, and the third was Team Tourism, which consisted of Lynette Andrews, Nathan Hingtgen, Alix Tingle, Lara Willis, and myself Haley Winslow.

Before all of our esteemed guests arrived we had to make sure several things were in order.  The evening before we had all gotten together to set up where we would be having the presentations.  We decided that with the light and space in the board room that we needed to have the presentations in the commons room; so we set up the chairs in a semi-circle, moved a table into the room that could hold the T.V. that we would be using to project our presentations, and moved the large T.V. safely into the commons room.  We also thought it would be a good idea to close out some of the light that was streaming into the room so our Director luckily had enough time to go out and buy some curtains and curtain rods the next morning and our lovely English handyman Lee was able to hang them for us before presentations at 10:00.  Our Director Kate also set up a wonder spread of coffee, doughnut holes, coffee cakes, and pineapple for our guests as well.

The guests showed up promptly at 10:00 and we all got a little snack and began the presentations.  Although we all knew what each of the other interns had done for the semester it was really interesting to see how hard everyone had worked throughout the time we had been here in Panama.  Whitney started it off with a bang; discussing all of the activities she had worked on while staying in the Kalu Yala Valley as an agricultural intern, as well as her time spent in San Miguel as the Director of the soccer program for the school children of the town.  Her picture presentation was set up in a good way that really illustrated what she had done throughout the semester, and was good because it had limited text and we got to see progress that had occurred in the Valley base camp. Whitney had come as a Business Intern, but after going to the Kalu Yala Valley she knew that she wanted to stay and help at base camp.  Although she came into the agricultural program with no prior knowledge of how to grow fruits and vegetables in the Valley, she came out of the program an experienced farmer.  She was very knowledgeable and confident in her presentations as well as her responses to questions.

Next was Bertie, and he wanted his presentation to be a surprise.  No one really had a solid idea about what Bertie had been doing all semester, so to finally see what he had been working on was very interesting.  He showed up for his presentation in traditional “English Gentleman style” as he called it,  with his white wrinkled long sleeve button down, and no shoes. Bertie is quite a character.  Anyway we all knew Bertie had been working on a project regarding potential real estate investments in Casco Viejo but that is all we knew.  His presentation started off with a historical overview of the city of Panama, which led us to the current day Casco Viejo.  After the history of Casco and the City of Panama, Bertie discussed the architectural aspects of the buildings in Casco.  He also spoke on the current real estate market in the area discussing both the refurbished as well as the old and run down building price tags.  Following the discussion of real estate, Bertie spoke on the future face of Casco Viejo; discussing how up to 80% of the buildings would be refurbished within the next 5-10 years, as well as the construction of the new highway that is currently being put in around the Casco Viejo seawall.  Although it was not exactly what we were expecting from Bertie, he came out with a strong project that really gave us all good insight into what Casco Viejo use to be, what it is now, and what it will be in the future.  Job well done Bertie!

Now it was time for Team Tourism to present.  The three people who presented were Lara, Nathan, and myself.  Instead of the traditional PowerPoint presentation style we choose to present our company with a Prezi.  I began by introducing our group and our project which was a tourism company by the name of Jungle Adventures by Kalu Yala.  In our presentation we discussed our business and marketing plans, our financial start-up costs and forecasting models, as well as our plans for the future of the company.  Our presentation lasted a total of 40 minutes due to the vast amount of information we had to discuss.  We feel our company Jungle Adventures by Kalu Yala, as well as our presentation went very well and we received a lot of positive feedback from our guests.  They felt we had a great product and were yearning to know more about it.

Following the presentations we all joined in the board room to have lunch.  Linda, our cook, had prepared for us a Panamanian dish of vegetables, raisins and chicken rice along with a side of freshly sliced tomatoes and onions.  Over lunch we all discussed what we were going to be doing following our return home from Panama and thanked our guests for joining us.  Before everyone left one of the guests, and an investor for Kalu Yala, Henrick asked Team Tourism if he could have a moment with us to discuss a potential business venture he had been interested in. Of course we all agreed so we went into the commons room and chatted for about thirty minutes.  He told us about how he wanted to build a stone house up at the top of one of his waterfalls close to the Kalu Yala Valley and how he wanted to utilize our tour company to bring people to it.  He feels sustainable tourism is a venture he would like to invest in and one that will protect his land and the wildlife that lives on his property.  After hearing his idea and thinking about how we could potentially work that into our tourism company we thanked him for his time and began getting ready for the evening ahead of us.  By now it was 2:15 and a few of us interns as well as our Director were going to the Panama vs. Spain soccer game.  We all got ready and off we went thankful that our internship was complete and we had successfully executed our presentations.  Already it had been a long day, but we were ready and excited to see some of the best soccer players in the world play right in front of our eyes.  It was an amazing end to a very worthwhile internship!  I feel we all came out of the internship knowing a lot more than we came in with.  We had learned new things and explored new places.  It was an experience to tell about.

There is really no other way to describe being at this point in my time in Panama without saying that time really does fly by.  Panama now feels like another home to me as do the people I have been surrounded now feel like family.  My experience here in Panama was perfectly summed up and put into perspective on my last trip to the valley.

To get to the valley from Hispania, you take the city metro bus 1 hour to venticuatro.  From there you take a Diablo Rojo (the public bus system of privately owned old US school buses) to San Miguel which is another hour.  Once in San Miguel, the hike takes about 1 1/2 hours starting in town and ending at basecamp.  Upon returning from vacation on a national holiday weekend, I left for the valley early Sunday morning to ensure I would be out there to complete my medicinal garden project in time.  Normally within 15 minutes of waiting you catch the city metrobus.  However, due to the holiday weekend only a handful had passed in 45 minutes so I began walking back to Hispania when I saw a La Dona bus going in the opposite direction.  Luckily, I ran back to the stop and caught the bus to venticuatro.  Here you can wait anywhere from 5 minutes to 2 hours depending on the mood of the bus driver and how quickly he would like to leave.  When I arrived there was a long line for the San Miguel bus which we have now learned means that it will be leaving soon as there are enough people to fill it up.  This was a great sign since at this point I didn’t know if buses would be going out there on the holiday weekend.

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Within a few minutes we left the terminal and went down back roads as the normal ones were blocked off.  (Side note: I don’t think a day went by this semester that we didn’t hear drums being played somewhere as both students and adults we practicing for the patriotic parades that took place over the weekend).  It took much longer than usual to pass points I recognized and after an hour the bus stopped as cars were in the streets and we couldn’t pass through.  Everyone started getting off the bus so I asked the bus driver how could I get to San Miguel.  He told me I needed to walk through the town next to the parade and maybe on the other side I would find buses.

So I start laughing as I find myself in the middle of a huge Panamanian celebration with my backpack, nike shorts, and tank top on.  After walking up the street, I realized I was in La Mesa, where I taught Adult English classes with Brigette every Monday during the semester.  A few minutes later, I spotted one of my students who laughed at my predicament and told me to stay and hang out with her as they were dancing in the street.

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Once the parade neared the end, I began to look again for the bus.  The first car in the line was a cattle car with one milk canister strapped in the back, a car I have seen going in and out of the valley many times.  The driver made eye contact with me and asked if I was going to los tres brazos.  I nearly screamed I was so excited when he motioned for me to get in the car.  It was Camillo Jr., the son of the man Camillo Sr. who normally drives the truck into the valley.

Once we got to San Miguel, he brought me to Casa Llena to see if anyone was home before I made the trek into the valley.  No one was there and I thanked him for the ride and told him I was going to start the hike.  He thoroughly insisted he give me a ride and off we went in his truck through the unruly road leading to the valley.  Mid way through we started talking about music and how he loves electronic.  I pulled out my ipod and plugged it into his stereo blasting Afrojack and Benny Benassi.  He dropped me off at the river right before base camp and then he returned back to San Miguel.

This normal trip turned adventure meant so much to me because I not only was able to break through the language barrier and finally speak Spanish to a certain extent, but through speaking I have developed friendships within the community.  Those friendships were proven on my trip as they were happy to help me, hang out with me, and genuinely do a favor for me asking nothing in return.  I would say that Sunday was a small example of how those friendships have expanded to other community members.  To top it off, the next night I talked with Jorge about the medicinal garden and what kind of plants I was looking for.  He returned the next day with 12 different plants from his garden, another example of how incredible these people are.   I am sad to leave them, leave my Kalu Yala family, and Panama alike.  I have finally figured it all out and now it is time to leave, but I am happy to go with a great sense of satisfaction with so many new lessons learned and success here in Panama.

The Beginning

The original settlement of the city was Panama Viejo, found in what are now the suburbs of the modern day city, situated east along the coast from Casco Viejo. Panama Viejo was founded in 1519 by the conquistador Pedrarías d’Ávila, to serve (according to UNESCO research) as a “commercial and administrative centre” due to its consolidated key position on the transoceanic route between Spain and the Americas.

Upon attack by the infamous privateer Sir Henry Morgan in 1671, its population deserted the city after the decision was made by Governor Juan Perez de Guzman to burn it and flee to keep the wealth and prowess of the city from falling into his hands.

A few years later in 1673 Antonio Fernández de Córdoba initiated the building of a new settlement (Casco Viejo) on a small peninsula nearby which was superior in position and provided the necessary fortifications that its predecessor lacked (see fig.1).

Casco Viejo

Casco Viejo is considered to be the ‘cultural gem’ of Panama City. Its rich colonial history has left behind a wealth of architecture, predominantly Spanish and French colonial buildings studded with the odd examples of art deco and neoclassical styles.

Across the 18^th century (1737, 1756 and 1781) the new city was severely damaged by fires. This had the unfortunate effect of stunting its urban development and expansion. The Californian ‘gold rush’ began in 1848 bringing a great number of people to Panama. It was thought preferable by many to sail from the Atlantic to Panama City and venture across the isthmus via mules and canoes, await a ship on the Pacific side to take them to San Francisco, rather than endure crossing the North American continent by railroad. In this small city men from all over the world were converging at once. The economy enjoyed a large boost in this period and by 1855 the Panama railway spanning the Isthmus of Panama was finished and the Pacific Mail Steamship Company began regular service from San Francisco to Panama. Improved infrastructure facilitated the journey of miners to California and the return of Gold bullion to the East coast thereby increasing significantly the wealth, commerce and mercantile activities of the hosting country.

In 1880 the French were the first to try and construct the Panama Canal, a waterway that would span 48 miles across the Isthmus thus saving ships an 8000-mile journey around the bottom tip of South America. The project was given the go-ahead by the Colombian Government who controlled the area at the time, financed by private investors and run by Compagnie Universelle du Canal Interocéanique. At the head of the project was the champion of Egypt’s Suez Canal Ferdinand de Lesseps. The French were unsuccessful in their pursuits due to a fundamental lack of the correct machinery and logistical knowledge to co-ordinate such a project in a unknown environment.

Not long after the Americans began to make their own plans to build the canal. However, their efforts were blocked by the Colombian government in power. The U.S. supported a revolution which led to Panamas independence in 1903. The Hay-Bunau-Varnilla Treaty was signed soon after which gave the U.S. perpetual control of the canal and 5 mile zones either side. The Canal was built between 1904 to 1914, the result of which was to create an influx of wealth into Panama which enabled the development and expansion that the city had previously lacked. To accomodate the automobile and build newer and more modern housing, the city spread into the suburbs. Its new CBD situated NE further along the coast left Casco Viejo (the old quarter) isolated on its peninsular, where it was subject to great deterioration as business moved away and the buildings emptied.

UNESCO

Fortunately in 1997 UNESCO declared Casco Viejo as one of the United Nations world heritage sites thus ushering in an era of revitalisation by government, entrepreneurs and international organisations. Law No 9. was partly responsible for this, offering restoration incentives to developers to attract outside investment.

For a recent vacation, my girlfriend, Haley, and I took a trip to Chiriqui, a province in Western Panama bordering Costa Rica. Most people who visit this area stop in the mountain town of Boquete, famous for world-class coffee, ecotourism, and Volcan Baru, the highest peak in Panama. Boquete has experienced a real estate boom in the past decade as internationals have retired or opened businesses here, sometimes both. There are many hotels, hostels, and restaurants as the area’s economy has become quite dependent upon tourism. We wanted to visit Boquete, however, we decided to take the road less traveled to get there.

Leaving from Panama City, we took a bus to David, the second largest city in Panama. Our adventure started as we crossed the border into Chiriqui province as guards entered the bus to check documents. I did not have my passport on me but did have a copy of it and and a copy of the stamp I received when I entered the country; which allows me to be here for six months legally. The guard gave me one of those “come on man” looks when I handed him my copies and explained that there was no way for him to tell that the stamp came from my passport. It probably did not help that my passport copy was in color while my stamp copy was in black and white. He said next time bring your passport and let me off with a warning. “Warnings” in Panama tend to cost you $10-$20 in the form of a bribe but thankfully I did not have to go through that process here. We proceeded to David to spend the night in a neat little hostel with A/C and even cable television, something I am not used to at this point.

From David, we hopped on a bus to the Cerro Punta/ Guadelupe area, which lies about 15 miles from Boquete with Volcan Baru in between the two areas. Cerro Punta and Guadalupe are gorgeous little mountain towns that depend more so upon agriculture than tourism. There are a few little hotels and camping areas but the tourists have not arrived in droves (as has happened in Boquete), although the area has potential to further develop tourism if it wants.

We found a little start up hostel/ camping area and decided to camp for the night as I did not bring a tent to simply lug it around for 5 days. After setting up camp, we spent the day meandering through the mountains, stopping to sip coffee, eat strawberries (the area is famous for them), and shopping at little artisan craft shops. Nothing too exciting, but very relaxing. Its amazing how enjoyable cool, fresh, mountain air can be after being in Panama City for a while. We made it back to camp, which also had a small restaurant, and ate double cheesburgers while watching Panama tie 0-0 with Honduras in a World Cup qualifying match. It had been a very enjoyable day and we went to bed early to prepare for what be a grueling next day.

El Sendero Los Quetzales is widely regarded as the most famous nature/ hiking trail in all of Panama. The trail, roughly 8 kilometers long, connects the Cerro Punta area with Boquete and we decided we would hike it instead of taking the bus back to David and then up to Boquete. After a delicous breakfast of eggs, patacones, chorizo, bacon, and coffee, we found a 4 X 4 taxi to take us as close to the trail head as possible. From where he dropped us off, it was about an hour of steep climbing up to the trail’s beginning. Thankfully we had brought plenty of water. The trail begins at the Volcan Baru National Park ranger station and costs $5 to enter.

Cerro Punta is about 1,000 meters higher in elevation than Boquete, so we would be hiking downhill most of the day. This sounds easy but there were some very steep, slippery sections with questionable “stairs.” The first hour or so of the hike took place in alpine forest, not the thick jungle we would encounter later. We found a few nice lookouts and saw some of the biggest trees I’ve ever seen. At several points we were looking down upon the clouds which is always a neat feeling. We stopped for a lunch of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and strawberries and continued trudging downward into the jungle. The National Park has all five species of big cats that live in Panama and at one point we heard a loud roar. We told ourselves that it was thunder but it was no doubt a big cat and we picked up the pace a bit after that. My girlfriend Haley’s knee began to hurt pretty bad but we had no choice but to keep moving. She’s quite the trooper.

Overall, the trail was well-marked and pretty fun to hike. You can see all kinds of trees including bamboo gardens and some ancient trees from primary rainforest. We did not encounter much wildlife but did see several birds, none of which were the Resplendant Quetzal, from which the trail gets its name. There are several well-constructed bridges and the trail is quite passable despite being a bit muddy in most places. I would not recommend it to those looking for an afternoon stroll, but if you are prepared and in relatively decent physical condition, you can do it in about 5-6 hours.

After several hours of hiking downhill through all types of vegetation, the trail finally flattened out a bit, but we were not out of the woods yet. We came across several forks in the trail without any signs but we trusted our instincts and made what we would prove to be the right navigational choices. As the trail flattened out and opened up a bit, we came across a spooky one-story structure, which took me by surprise. Even more surprising, a giant black dog was staring right at me as we passed an open doorway and my heart skipped about 6 beats. I had a large knife ready but thankfully I did not have to do anything as the dog did not take any interest in us. We trudged along and came across about 12 Panamanians working on the trail who stared at us as if we were aliens. We asked them directions and they confirmed that we were still on the right path although they continued staring. We’re used to getting funny looks from locals but these guys looked especially surprised to see us.

The trail turned into a dirt road and continued past a small agricultural area and several houses. This was a truly beautiful area and it was good to see some form of civilization again. We were beginning to wonder where the ranger station on this side of the trail was and continued walking, albeit a bit nervously. Our backpacks were really starting to weigh us down and we could not wait to set up camp again. We finally found the end of the trail and exited the park to set up camp at the ranger station. My girlfriend was a bit hesitant to stay here but I did not want to keep hiking or wait for a bus that may never come. As it turns out, there is a bus that comes to the park’s entrance several times daily that connects to Boquete and one came as we had just set up camp. We should have taken that bus (I’m still hearing about this from Haley) but I was stubborn and happy with our tent. Almost as soon as we set up camp, the rain began to pour. Thankfully, our tent had a good rainfly and we did not get wet, but this really limited our ability to move about.

Things were fine until it got dark. We heard some rustling around and managed a quick “hola” out to whomever may be out there. A man responded and shined the light on our tent. I poked my head out to talk to him and he assured us that we were safe and that there would be a bus in the morning. Things got quiet again and we had a few sips of rum to help us go to sleep. About an hour later we heard more voices approaching. Once again we got a bit nervous and yelled out “hola.” This time there was no light but we did get an “hola” in response. The guys must have been sitting at the station because we continued to hear them chatting very close to us but they had stopped moving. The chatter continued and we began hearing more and more voices. This was a very uneasy feeling.

At one point, someone tripped over one of our rainfly ties. This shook our whole tent and at this point we were wide awake and terrified. I never thought anyone was out there to hurt us, but when you’re a stranger in an extremely remote location, you never know what is going to happen. We continued hearing voices throughout the night but no one approached the tent again or spoke to us. We got a little bit of uneasy sleep and were ecstatic to see the initial morning rays of sunlight.

We emerged from the tent to see a group of locals gathering for the morning bus down into Boquete. Needless to say, this was a good sign. We packed up quickly and waited with them. They were friendly but I had not had any coffee so conversation was limited. I have found that coffee, rum, and beer (in no particular order) help my Spanish abilities more than anything. We crammed onto the small bus that showed up around 7 am and were in Boquete by 7:30. After arriving, a large breakfast was in order at Cafe de Encuentro, a locally owned restaurant with the greatest huevos rancheros of all time.

We spent the next couple nights relaxing at Refugio del Rio in a private one bedroom tree house overlooking a small stream, quite a bit different than our two previous nights spent camping. Boquete was really enjoyable as we partook in a coffee tour, visited hot springs, and ate amazing food. It was a nice, relaxing end to what had been quite the adventure.

While vacationing at Playa Venao, I had the opportunity to take a tour out to an island off the Pacific coast that is notorious for sea turtles nesting.  This blog will depict my observations, as a tourist, of the positive and negative aspects of the tour I went on.  For now the name of the island will remain anonymous.

Reading in the Lonely Planet Panama book, I discovered that there was a turtle nesting beach just offshore where I was going to be staying for a couple days.  I also read that turtle nesting was during October and November, and was hoping I might get the opportunity to explore this island and see some sea turtles.  Although I am familiar with and have seen sea turtles before in my coastal community in North Carolina, I still very much appreciate these beautiful sea creatures and wanted the chance to see how turtle watching tours worked in Panama.

To find out a little bit more about this island I asked the attendant at the front desk of the resort where we were staying and found that there really wasn’t an easy way of getting on and off the island, as well as information about where the turtles nested and so forth.  I had read that to get to the island you could easily take a $1.00 water taxi and then potentially find a guide that would help with locating the turtles.  Although this seemed like a pretty inexpensive trip we had also heard that it was best to camp beach and not knowing the area we would be camping in was a little intimidating for me.  Luckily for us the front desk attendant was also very interested in the turtle nesting process and wanted to get a firsthand look herself.  She told us she would make a few calls and let us know later what she had found out.

After an afternoon full of sun, sand, and waves we came back to the resort and stopped by the reception desk to see if she had found anything out about the turtle island.  She said she had spoken with a local tour guide she knew and he agreed to take us and a few others to see the turtles.  He also had told her that it was prime turtle laying season and that there had been a decent amount of turtle sightings within the last few days.  We were excited to hear this good news and prepared ourselves for what we knew would be an adventure to tell about. Loli, the receptionist, told us she would try and get a ride for the following night so we could catch the boat that would take us over to Turtle Island.  This girl seemed to be a little bit like of a schemer so we really didn’t know what was going to be in store for us.

The following night around ten o’clock Nathan, Lynette, Whitney, Bertie, and I met Loli at the entrance of the resort and all climbed in a car Loli had been able to acquire for the night.  Off we went down the ragged road leading to the location we had agreed to meet the guide.  It took us about thirty minutes all jammed in the back of a Nissan hoping and praying that Loli would get us there safely… we had our doubts. Regardless we made it to the place we were suppose to be meeting our guide and waited for about five minutes.  Our Panamanian guide showed up in what seemed like a pretty decent ten person motorboat and we all shook hands and climbed in the boat.

As we started to pull out of the dock I noticed how beautiful the sky was that night and was thankful that we had almost a full moon to guide us along our way.  Full moons are perfect for turtle watching and gave us that much more of an advantage for finding them.  So on we went cruising through the inlet waters.  It was amazing to see these huge mountains to our left side and an island on our right side.  I thought the island on the right side was our destination but we continued on our boat journey for about twenty minutes.  I really enjoyed this part of the trip and was thankful to have been able just to do this.  It really was a beautiful night boat ride.

Finally we made it to the boat dock on turtle island, took our life-jackets off, and made our way out of the boat and onto the island.  Well most all of us that is.  Once we made it off the dock we realized that one of our friends, Whitney, had forgotten to take off her life-jacket so she ended up having to wear hers for the remainder of the tour.  It was quite a hilarious move and really lightened up the mood of the group.  She is a funny one!

After we all began to look around we noticed that the island we thought was going to be very small and remote had a lot of development and a decent amount of houses and buildings.  We waited a minute for our tour guide to run to his house to get something, which was right beside the boat dock, and continued on with our tour.  He led us through the little town that inhabited the island and we were able to see that this small island town had everything.  They had fondas (restaurants), soccer fields, housing, and even a school.  This was a fully functioning island but currently the electricity was out on the whole island so the town was very dark and almost looked uninhabited.  I was thankful I had brought my headlamp.  It was difficult dodging all the puddles in the road without it.

Finally after about a ten minute walk we began to hear the waves and could smell the salty air.  We knew we were getting close to the beach and before we could say anything there it was, the magnificent white sand beach of Turtle Island.  This is honestly is one of the prettiest beaches I have been on in Panama and I wish I could have visited during the day.  The beach was probably a quarter of a mile from the dunes to the ocean and the waves gently rolled in over the sandy shore.  Our guide received a phone call from an informant of his and he told us that there was a turtle about a mile from where we were.  So we quickened our pace and headed down the beach in  search of the turtle.

Ten minutes later we spotted what seemed like a dark spot on the sand.  As we approached closer we noticed that the spot was a giant sea turtle.  From previous experience with turtle watching and from the books I had read I knew that to properly handle turtle viewing you were supposed to stay a safe distance away from the turtles, be out of view, not wear any bright or white colored clothing, not use flashlights, and definitely not disturb them by talking or touching them.   All of these invasive actions could affect the mother turtle’s birthing habits and even cause them to return to the ocean without laying eggs in fear of danger.  Unfortunately for us we were about to witness an assortment of these invasive actions.

As we approached the sea turtle we didn’t try and keep our distance, the tour guide ushered us right over to where the turtle was and encouraged us to get close so that we could really see the turtle.  Already I felt like I was doing something wrong and knew I should be observing from further back.  From here a series of events took place that really disturbed me.  As we gathered around the turtle the guide, with his brightly colored white shirt, continually shined his flashlight directly on the turtle so that we could get a better look at her.  Although he would only turn the flashlight on for a minute or so you could tell that well were causing the turtle anxiety because she quickened her pace back toward the ocean.  I know this had to be a very hard feat for her because you could tell she was exhausted from her birthing process.  She had to drag her couple hundred pound body over a quarter of a mile up into the dunes, had to dig a large whole in the sand, had to lay her eggs, had to cover her eggs, then had to slowly drag herself back to the ocean.  You could tell that she was tired because she would drag herself just a little ways then have to stop and take a break.

Next Loli gets in the way of the turtle and begins to flash pictures in her face and after she had got what she thought were some really great pictures of the turtles she began to touch her and rub her shell.  She was also yelling at the turtle every time she stopped with what she thought were encouraging words like,  “go big mommy”, and “you can do it”.  This is when I had to step back and seriously hold my tongue.  I didn’t like what was going on and I felt like I was a part of something that was disturbing this wild creature’s ancient ritual.

Once the turtle had finally made its way back into the safety of the ocean, the guide received a phone call informing him that there was another turtle down the beach that was in the process of laying her eggs.  So off we took down the beach in search of this other turtle.  It took us about another ten minutes to find the location and we headed up into the dunes where the other flashlight had been beaconing us up to.

When we walked closer to the dunes we could once again see something that none of us liked, not even Loli.  Standing about five feet from the turtle was a teenager, who was probably about fifteen, who had a very large bag full of turtle eggs.  Our first thought was that this was a poacher and that he was steeling them to either eat or sell.  This took us all aback and I really didn’t know what to do.  I was ready to turn around and leave the island and be done with this tour, but unfortunately I was stuck.  I didn’t have any choice but to continue the trip and try and keep my distance.

As we approached the teen the guide went up and began to speak with him.  The guide wasn’t acting like anything was weird or out of place so after speaking with the teen for just a little while he ushered us up the dune to where the turtle was currently laying her eggs. Once we were close enough to see the turtle I realized that this turtle was of a different species than the one we had previously seen.  I also noticed that the hole were the turtle had been laying was completely empty and had indication marks that someone had moved the sand on the back side of the whole to access the nest.  Obviously the teenager couldn’t even wait until the turtle had finished laying her eggs before he invaded her nest.  Everything about this was wrong to me.

Regardless we remained around the turtle and watched as she laid what seemed like a hundred more eggs. Here he explained to us a little bit more about the turtle laying process and told us that each turtle depending on species would lay anywhere from 200-300 eggs in one nesting period, and would lay about twice a year.  As we stood and watched what really was an amazing process, Loli once again began to take pictures of the turtle.  She even asked if we all wanted to get in a picture with the turtle and all of us simultaneously told her no.  She looked a little confused and asked why so we explained to her that it wasn’t good to be flashing pictures in the turtles eyes while trying to lay her eggs.  She thought this was a valid point and discontinued her picture taking.  Maybe she hadn’t even thought that this could be harmful or disruptive to the turtle.

While we continued standing and watching the turtle the guide also addressed what the teenager was doing and with all of the eggs.  He told us that designated volunteers watch the beaches at night and wait for turtles to lay their eggs. Once this is done they take all the eggs from the nest and relocate them to a safe house located down the beach.  We were all a little skeptical of this process and what he was telling us but we went along with it.  We weren’t in the position to be questioning his story.  Apparently though he could tell that we weren’t happy with the situation so he offered to take us to the sea turtle hatchery.

Back down the beach we go this time in the direction we had come from.  I was glad to know that this hatchery actually existed and we were about to see how this process worked.  After about twenty-five to thirty minutes of walking down the beach the guide directed us up the dunes to the hatchery.  It was just a little building with no lighting, that had a chain-link fence surrounding it on all four sides.  There was also barbwire on the top of the fence for added protection from poachers.  On both the right and left side of the little building were what looked like little mounds of sand each with a stick sticking out of the ground indicating where each nest of turtles was buried.  Here the guide gave us a little rundown of the process of the hatchery, which did make me feel a little bit better about what we had just witnessed.  He told us they dig a hole in the ground, place the eggs in the hole, cover the eggs, mark their location with a stick, and let them incubate until it is time for them to hatch.  Once they hatch they ensure the protection of the sea turtles by protecting them from birds, dogs, and other animals that could potentially eat the baby turtles.  As we were leaving the teenager we had seen collecting the eggs showed up making their story even more legitimate.

This was the end of our turtle watching experience, so we made our way back to the boat dock on the other side of the island and one by one grabbed life jackets and began to climb in.  Before we could all get in though Whitney climbed in with one foot and thought everyone else was getting in but we weren’t quite ready yet and the boat began to drift away from the dock, so here is Whitney strataling the two trying not to fall in the water.  It was the funniest thing and we all began to laugh.  After we helped pull her in we all climbed in the boat and began our journey back to the mainland.

By now we were all very tired since it was after midnight, and all very perplexed by the tour we had just taken.  There was a lot of  invasive behaviors we all thought were very inappropriate and harmful to the sea turtles.  Regardless we were supporting tourism and protection of the turtles which hopefully will keep the turtles from being someone’s dinner.

As we rode in the boat back to the mainland we noticed that there was a small island in the middle of the channel.  We also noticed that the closer we got to the island the slower the boat went and finally the engine came to a complete stop.  It wasn’t like the guide had cut off the engine but more like the engine had given out.  This wasn’t a good sign for us and we were afraid we were about to be stuck.  Luckily the guide pulled an ore out and began pushing the boat around the island that he called Bird Island.  As we got closer we could tell that it wasn’t an island but just a clump of trees that were growing right out of the water.  This was interesting to me because the water we were in was salty so these trees must be a certain type that can live and grow in salty water.

After we got a little ways past the island the guide sat back down from pushing us around the island and cranked up the engine.  We were glad the engine was in fully functioning.  Apparently he had slowly let the motor die because the area around Bird Island was very shallow.

Once we got going again he told us to all look over into the woods on the inland side of the channel and look for the white tree.  He told us he was very excited because this was a sight to see.  At first none of us could see it but after getting a little closer inland we all could see the huge white mass.  Even closer we got and finally we could make out what the great white tree was.  It was a tree completely covered with snow white herons.  We only get a little bit nearer and all of the birds took flight.  It was beautiful to see and probably one of my favorite parts of the tour.

After another ten minutes we returned to the dock on the mainland and each paid $16 for the tour.  Although it was a very reasonable price I feel the tour guide and the people of the island have a lot to learn about properly handling sea turtle nesting and turtle watching tours.

Regardless we made it back to our resort safely and got to witness the miracle of life.  I can’t say I would ever do it again, but I can say it was an adventure.  You never know what your getting into until your already in it.

My internship entails working directly with four other group members (and indirectly with everyone in some way) to create excursions to Kalu Yala’s valley land about an hour outside of Panama City. We have recently conducted our first trial trip  and are currently marketing an additional excursion to take place from November 7-9. Our ultimate goal is to create a business plan for “Jungle Adventures by Kalu Yala” and to have this business plan ready to pitch to investors by the end of the semester. It has been a lot of work so far and there is plenty more left, but things are coming together.

One of my principal duties for the plan has been to examine the competition. The way I see it, our company’s competitors can be grouped into three categories: lodging establishments, tour operators, and destinations. As of right now, Jungle Adventures by Kalu Yala aims to provide a nature-based tourism experience to the backpacker market so we must examine related businesses. As Kalu Yala expands what tourists can do in the valley and raises the level of services, other competitors will emerge but for now we are focusing upon nature-based tourism for backpackers.  There are many nature-based tourism experiences as well as backpacker hotspots in Panama, but the nature-based tourism experience designed for the backpacker seems to be a gap in Panama’s overall tourism offerings.

We have a bit more research to do, but eventually we’d like to charge $100-$150 for a 3 day/ 2 night excursion to the valley complete with guided hikes, educational tours, great food, and plenty of relaxation at the swimming holes. Additional financial modeling needs to take place before we can nail down a target price. Most day trips to the rainforest/ jungle currently available in Panama through tour operators charge $100+, so once again we see great potential to offer a longer experience at a lower average cost than competitors. Staying at a jungle-based ecolodge will generally run at least $50/ night, although there are some that offer dorm-style arrangements for $10-$15/ night. There are currently no marketed excursions in the $100-$150 price range for a 3 day/ 2 night all-inclusive backpacker adventure.

I visited Eco Venao (Los Santos Province at Playa Venao) a few weeks ago and was very impressed with their operation as they had lodging available from $11/ night in the dorm all the way up to $150/ night to stay in a brand new house overlooking the beach. There was also beach and jungle access, and many activities were available as add-ons, including horseback riding and surfboard rental. Eco Venao is able to target both the backpacker crowd and those with a bit larger budgets, which is what we would like to be able to do in the future with Jungle Adventures by Kalu Yala. As of right now, however, what we have to offer best fits the backpacker market so we’re starting there, but with the knowledge that we can expand in the future.

Perhaps what has been most encouraging is the response from Panama City’s hostel owners and employees in regards to our marketing attempts. As we have been posting flyers and recruiting from local hostels, we keep hearing that there is no consistent, affordable jungle excursion for backpackers. One would expect the market to be flooded with such excursions given Panama’s rich ecotourism resources, but that has not been the case. The fact that the hostels are willing to work with us and promote us leads me to believe that Kalu Yala could offer the premier backpacker jungle experience for those passing through Panama City and could even become a “can’t-miss” experience.

One day, I was really craving a gourmet sandwich. I knew I could find one in Casco Viejo, the coolest neighborhood in Panama. Casco consists of 16th & 17th Century Spanish Colonial Architecture and is protected as a World Heritage Site. While the rest of Panama City is being torn down and reconstructed into high rises, Casco is cleaning up its crime and restoring and redeveloping all the crumbling buildings. It is the cultural hub of the city.

I had a cabbie drop me off at some park in Casco and I figured I would just walk around until I stumbled upon a sandwich shop. Unfortunately for me, I didn’t have much luck with this “plan”. I kept walking down the gross and sketchy streets where all I was finding was cheap, traditional Panamanian fried food. I couldn’t do that anymore. I needed something fresh. After walking around to no avail for half an hour, the sky started to darken. I knew I had to find something fast, so I dipped inside René Café.

As soon as I walked in, I realized I wasn’t in the right place. They had tablecloths and a wine rack. Whoa! The place was too upscale. I was wearing gym clothes. Before I could slip back out, I was ushered to a table and given the lunch menu. Salad, quiche, fish, rice, bread, and a brownie for $8.50. Yeah, I was there to stay. This wasn’t the sandwich I was looking for, but it was the best deal I had found thus far in Panama.

There is no such thing as service in Panama and it is not unusual to have to request the bill three times before it comes is what I have been told by several people. Within two minutes, I was served bread and salad. Another couple of minutes my quiche came. As soon as I finished my salad and quiche, the fish and fried rice were served. Shortly after that, came my brownie.

It wasn’t the best meal I have ever had, but it certainly was the healthiest, freshest, and most diverse meal that I have had since I have been here. The portions were just the right the size and service was swift. I was in such a fabulous mood afterwards that I didn’t even notice that I walked half an hour home in the rain.

During a visit to Costa Rica last week, I found myself mentally comparing tourism in Costa Rica to that of Panama.  The following chart depicts my observations and are in no way based on research; information in the chart is based on my personal experiences in these countries.

Despite Costa Rica and Panama having similar historical and natural attractions, their economies are made up of different industries.  Costa Rica’s economy relies on the exporting of fruits like bananas.  Panama relies on the economy and banking sectors.  Both countries are trying to attract similar types of travelers.

I was very impressed with the way Costa Rica has developed tourism.  The country has implemented a few policies that were of particular interest to me.  By 2020, they aim to be a carbon neutral country.  In many of the vans we took for transport between destinations, there was a sign in the back window that said the trip was 100% carbon offset.  It is also illegal to cut down trees.  If someone wants to cut one down, the person needs to obtain special permission.

I have been in Panama for almost two months now and something that is constantly coming into my mind is how the city always manages to affect the senses in one way or another. This blog focuses mainly on the sounds and sights that this evolving city throws at you from every angle but also the other less obvious senses that is only recognised from living and submersing yourself in the Panamanian culture.

This is in no way meant to be offensive nor a put-off for those wanting to come to Panama….embrace their culture and their livelihood as they are all in all wonderful and vibrant people with a fabulous country that should be shown off to the rest of the world!

Having never lived in the centre of a city, all noises are foreign to me especially when I want to go to sleep and the only way to do so is to have the window wide open and a fan going! At home the loudest noise I may hear is throughout the autumn months is when the farmers are harvesting their crops late at night or in the early hours of the morning…Panama is a very different story! During the daytime the sounds are constant and seem almost too familiar and dare I say it even homely?! I find myself saying “oh Panama” when I hear the city sounds when I’ve come back from the valley or a beach trip! Panama is a bustling city where construction seems to occur somewhere all day every day, although it cannot be heard from Hispania all the time, you can guarantee that on your walk to Casco Viejo, New York Bagel Café or even Riba you will hear the sound of a pneumatic drill or banging.

When taking a casual stroll around the city, you can be sure to hear the following sounds from men…why is it always the men in countries that feel this behaviour is acceptable and even welcomed by women… ‘hey baby/beautiful/preeeety’ or my personal favourite ‘I love you’ said in a somewhat creepy manner generally by the older generation! Hearing this fills me with laughter because walking to Riba in my pyjamas or gym attire when I’ve just got out of bed definitely does not warrant these greetings, you just need to learn to embrace the Panamanian way!

Time for a little reminiscing, on the bus back from Isla Grande sitting in a quaint little chiva I noticed almost immediately the décor surrounding the driver, as always it was delightful! The most interesting part was the gear stick, why? Well because it had ribbons on, similar to those on a child’s bikes handlebars! On closer inspection there was a button on the top which quite soon after we started moving I realised was in fact a horn! Was this because the main bus horn was broken I hear you ask, oh no, quite the opposite. There was two simply because in Panama horns mean a variety of things and I think I have come to understand that one is for beeping at your friends whether they are walking on the side of the road, on the porch of their house, or driving past in their car.

The other and more prominent horn is for cars and buses that are in your way or ones that after a split second have not realised that the light went green and they MUST MOVE! Now with this in mind I presume the second horn (if available) would be for alerting the pretty gringas that they are looking great today, I hope to have worked this out by the time I leave!

Now onto another sense that is constantly being appealed to is sight. This was one of the first things that really caught my attention at the beginning of my time here in Panama, I absolutely love looking around a new place, finding its quirks and charm without using anything but my eyes. In Panama there is something to appeal to all, just looking out from the balcony of Hispania I can see Parque Urraca with children practising baseball (how they train in this heat in the full gear is beyond me!), other children in the playground, adults just people watching from the benches and if you’re lucky in the late afternoon you can see young adults learning or practising acrobatics on ribbons that have been tied to the trees. It truly is a wonderful park to live behind.

Looking further afield the views are incredible, walking along the new infrastructure that is the Cinta Costera (a boardwalk that runs from the thriving business district all the way into picturesque Casco Viejo). If you look out on the ocean you can see, on the horizon, all the ships and boats lining up to pass through the canal. To the left you have the business district with more skyscrapers than I can count and a very westernised look which fits into the predetermined notion of what a city looks like. It is incredible to think as you observe all this modern architecture that only seven years prior not one of these buildings existed. Panama has come a long way in a short space of time. In complete juxtaposition to this is Casco Viejo one of the most interesting and beautiful places the City has to offer, with its squares, quaint shops, fruit and vegetable vendors, a mix of restaurants and its constant flow of yellow taxi’s! Many a time have I walked through Casco and just observed the people and absorbed its charm and I urge all who come to Panama to do the same, grab a batido and sit in the square people watching, you will not be disappointed!

Taste in Panama refers to the variety of flavours than tickle your tastebuds on a daily basis. I’ll keep this brief as my last blog was dedicated to food! Batidos are the tastiest treat that the city has to offer. They are fresh fruit, batido milk, ice all blended together to create a delicious thick shake. Another of the Panamanian dishes that I love though could easily tire of is rice and beans, only Panamanians know how to make them perfect, I’m going to try and get the recipe off Hispania’s cook Linda as hers are the best I’ve had here! Pollo frito, this is everywhere in Panama, the local fonda’s will serve it happily for breakfast, lunch and dinner and I know that some of them would eat it all day everyday if they could. Not usually a lover of such a dish, but in Panama it would be rude not to eat the local food!

Smell is a hard sense to appeal to when thinking of a country as a whole, there is definitely a distinct smell as there is in many countries of warm rain. It is not a horrid smell at all but it is one that is recognisable and apparent especially during the rainy season. One of the more awkward smells but it is Panama is that of the fish market. The smell is slowly creeping down the Cinta Costera and is not one that I will miss at all. When you smell it when walking to Casco the only positives I can find from it is that you are nearly at Casco which in the blistering heat is welcoming and also that the fish is extremely fresh and for fish lovers this is important!

Finally this country and its culture touches you, and it varies for different people whether that be the person who came to visit and never left or the intern who’s eyes have been opened by experiencing life in a different country.

For our last five days off, all of us interns headed out for the beautiful beaches of Playa Venao, for some much needed time away from the city.  We figured that vacation round #2 can only go up from our  first vacation experience in Isla Grande.  We were right, it definitely exceeded our expectations.  From our lodging at Eco Venao, the food, friendly staff and locals, beautiful views and incredible beach, relaxation and the outdoor beach parties.

Our journey started with a, surprisingly comfortable, early morning bus ride to Las Tablas, where we then switched buses and headed for Playa Venao, totaling about five hours of travel time.  Playa Venao offers a tranquil getaway from the hustle and bustle of Panama City, and it is exactly what we needed after a long 10 days of work.  It is not a highly populated destination, it consists of a couple of hostels, hotels and hotel restaurants spread along the beach.  If you need to go to the grocery during your stay, the closest option is the quaint town of Pedasi, located about 25 minutes away.  If you have a car this is easy, otherwise you could try and hitch a ride with one of the locals.

Upon arrival, we checked into Eco Venao, located across the street from the beach and is set within a 346 acre reforestation project, where they have already planted over 40, ooo trees.  It is a place that caters to the luxury traveller, budget backpacker, or eco-tourist; with their accommodations ranging from the Surf Hostel, private rooms in Las Cabanas, or their beautiful guest houses.  The first night we opted to splurge on ourselves and take Casa Espave for the night.  A fairly brand new home that sits atop the mountainside overlooking the beautiful beach below.  We were all very content on our luxurious decision to stay in the home with the most spectacular views, full kitchen and dining, king beds, air conditioning and hot showers.  Thanks to the rainy season and arriving on a Thursday, the price per person was actually the same as some of our not so awesome hostels we have stayed in!  It was a nice treat.

The next evening we downgraded quite a bit to our shared dorm rooms at the eco lodge; all still an amazing experience.  The lodge has a restaurant and bar with very decent prices and excellent food, a monkey viewing balcony, a shared kitchen for dorm residents, a hammock hut for relaxation and reading, and a game room with ping pong, foosball and darts.  Our days here were spent relaxing on the beach, hiking and exploring to the waterfall, monkey watching, early morning yoga, some hitting up the famous surf break, and just a lot of each other’s pleasant company.

The staff at Eco Venao made for a great experience as well. The manager/owner, Nico, greeted us with a warm welcome and showed us around the property when we arrived.  Chef and kitchen manager, Aldo, prepared the most delicious meals and ensured that we had everything we needed through the excellent service provided by him and his staff.  The $5 giant cheeseburger with yucca fries and chipotle sauce fully satisfied my craving for a large, juicy, American burger…a few times actually.  Loli, the new girl managing the reception desk provided for some awesome morning yoga in the beautiful palm roofed deck on the beach, with 180° view of ocean, trees and sand.  Cory and I went to one of her morning yoga classes and happened to be the only ones attending that day; Loli was able to focus on more difficult moves with us and ultimately ended class with some 3 person acro-yoga.

We ended our vacation at Playa Venao by making some great Panamanian friends and heading down the beach to the Hotel Sitio for their weekly party.  They have a beach party every saturday night where many locals and visitors come on down for some fun dancing and entertainment on their beach deck.  We intended to take off early Sunday morning and head back to the city, only then realizing that the buses don’t run from Playa Venao on Sundays.  Guillermo, one of the restaurant staff and a Panama local, thought this to be very funny, because many tourists never realize this and are forced to stay or find other means of transport.  Thank goodness for hitchhiking!  Guillermo was nice enough to squeeze some of us in the backseat of his truck and take us to Las Tablas, where he had to drop off the DJ anyway.  From there, we were able to catch a very uncomfortable, 4 hour bus ride back to the city.

We had a wonderful vacation and I definitely recommend it to everyone looking for a relaxing getaway or some exciting waves!

San Miguel is a small town of about 500 people located an hour by car (2+ by bus) from Panama City and is the closest town to the valley.  Over the past 2 years, we have been working to help the community in San Miguel.  My role in this is teaching students English in grades kindergarten through 6th grade.  The school has 4 rooms where multiple grades are taught in the same room at the same time, but face different directions according to their grade.

In our English classes, we have 4 on Tuesday and 4 on Wednesday in order of kindergarten, 1st and 2nd, 3rd and 4th, and 5th and 6th grade.  Brigette and I are called “ticher” and always receive hugs and “hellos” from the students every morning.  The kindergarten kids are adorable and best to have first thing in the morning before their energy kicks in.  We have reviewed colors by having them color in a rainbow, numbers, and the alphabet.

1st and 2nd grade may be the most challenging class as the students have the most energy, but we have discovered that they love to color and draw.  On the first day of class is started to rain so all the students instinctively drew rain pictures and gave them to us as gifts with notes on them.  Their favorite review though is definitely head, shoulders, knees, and toes.  It’s amazing how much easier it is for the students to learn when it is put into a song.

3rd and 4th grade loves to play games! Anything from bingo, to hangman, to simon says; games are definitely their favorite activity.  These students are very well behaved and are a pleasure to teach.  5th and 6th is more advanced and surprise us everyday with their knowledge.  Finding a balance on how to teach new material effectively is something we are still working on with them, but it is incredible how some of these students are so eager and excited to learn.

Although this work is extremely tiring, it is also some of the most rewarding work I have done.  These kids really want to learn and put their full effort in.  In return, it drives me more to work harder for them.  I enjoy putting together their lesson plans together and trying to figure out how to make it the best and most interactive for the students.

No surprises as to what I’m going to be blogging about…FOOD! Over the course of the past month I have captured pictures of my meals and will continue to do so over the next two so that no meal is missed out (though saying that at times I’ve forgotten to take a picture but nevermind!)

I love food; I love searching for recipes, buying the ingredients, chopping/peeling/grating and cooking them into fabulous creation! Most of all I love tasting and trying food which is why I was so excited to find out what a traditional Panamanian meal consists of, as well as anticipating what meals both our cook in Hispania (Linda) as well as the best darn valley chef ever (Largo) would prepare for us.

I think a lot of the interns will agree with me when I say that food is a big part of our lives out here in Panama! We always seem to be discussing it, what we want to eat, mainly vegetables and fruit or in contrast to that skittles and ice cream or what Linda (Hispania’s cook) will be making for lunch and dinner each day! We’ve loved it, hated it, tried new things and experienced high quality meals in the middle of the jungle we are quite the food connoisseurs now!

The biggest difference that I have found between Panamanian food and back home is the lack of vegetables and the amount of carbs and fried food that’s on offer. It’s ridiculous everything is fried fortunately Linda has understood that we are vegetable lovers and trying to cater to us needy interns in the best way she can – I still need to tell her that potatoes are considered in the carb family not the vegetable one!

So let me start at the very beginning with orientation week and heading out to the valley to experience proper food in a camping environment and eating possibly the tastiest food I’ve had in Panama. Largo is a talented cook, and considering he learnt from his predecessor the meals he provided us with are just delicious!

Valley Day 1 – Breakfast at the fonda in San Miguel:

This was really good and consisted of scrambled egg, chorizo and holjadras which I had never come across before but is typical in Panama. It’s basically a flat doughnuty bread thing that tastes pretty good especially if you add some sugar onto it! This was desperately needed before the intense 2 hour hike into the valley and I’m sure we burnt it off!

Valley Day 1 – Largo’s cooking us lunch.:

The anticipation for this was high, everyone had told us that Largo’s food is amazing so I was excited to try it. Little did I know that after this meal everything got better and better! He cooked a scrumptious lunch of meat tacos with a side of blackbeans!

Valley Day 1 – Dinnertime:

Dinner was needed after a long day of hiking and taking in the picturesque views as well as lounging by the swimming holes.

Largo was busy preparing a favourite of everyone’s and had PERFECT music to accompany the theme of the evening…of course it was Italian Cafe Night. This night will remain with me forever, the music played the atmosphere and laughter shared that night was truly unforgettable. On the menu tonight was spaghetti with tomato sauce and a side of outstanding eggplant (aubergine to my fellow Brits) parmesan.

Valley Day 2:

Unfortunately my stomach took over my memory for the most part of this day so I only have a picture of dinner but you’re in luck because this had to be the BEST blackbean burger I have ever tasted, I would go as far to say its a Largo speciality and should be sold in supermarkets worldwide!

To accompany this delicious burger we were delighted with fried patacones which are deep fried plantain and incredible…better than fries perhaps?!

Valley Day 3 – Breakfast at Basecamp:

As lying in is not an option in the Valley due to howler monkeys and the sun, Largo was up cooking us wait for it…french toast for breakfast, this was my first ever experience of this and I was pleasantly surprised, maybe even converted to this as a breakfast item! Naturally he also provided a large pot of coffee to wake up those that had had a heavy Abuelo filled night!

Valley Day 3 – Lunchtime:

This is a bit of an touchy subject for some of the interns because they went on a hike and missed out on a great lunch, they did however get to see Ramons Waterfall so maybe they had the better end of the deal by having peanut butter sandwiches instead! Ok, so lunch at basecamp was amazing as always nothing too fancy today just a good old chicken burger with all the trimmings cheese, tomato, onion, lettuce, mayo and ketchup (or hot sauce if you’re that way inclined). Did we beat the hikers…I’ll leave that to you all to decide!

Valley Day 4:

Oh yes its dinner and Largo is treating us to something that I did not believe was possible in his make-do kitchen so he excelled all expectation by making it Pizza night! The dough was made from scratch, Largo, Cory and Alice all set about making this before the hikers had made it back from the waterfall as its a long process making 19 pizzas on 3 burners!

Both vegetarians and meat eaters were catered for with a choice between lots of cheese and various vegetables or pepperoni and vegetables. It was gone in seconds and the best valley pizza ive ever eaten!

Valley Day 5 – Our final breakfast in the valley before the big hike up suicide hill:

We were again treated to an incredible meal, this time it was pancakes with maple syrup! Big, fat american pancakes filled the food gap that was necessary for the hike out. These were some of the best pancakes that I’ve had and definitely made for a great day! Do not worry that whole stack was not for me I shared it with a number of hungry interns!

Many more fabulous meals have been consumed in the Valley such as soups, rice and beans and apple cinnamon pancakes…Largo is not hindered by his lack of kitchen he makes fabulous meals with the limited space and resources that he has, I would be interested to see how anyone would cope as well as he has.

Panama City Dining.

So in Panama there is an abundance of restaurants to try, one of my favourite and a place that I like to go when I’m hungry after the hike and bus rides back from the Valley is Athens. This is a Greek restaurant that is extremely popular with the Panamanians and serves ridiculously good food at really reasonable prices! The first time a few of us interns went this is what we ate and continue to eat whenever we go:

Ladopsomo, this is a house special at Athens and consists of toasted pitta bread, chopped tomatoes, onions, grated feta cheese, olives, tzatziki, oregano and olive oil. Its amazing, someone will always order this when we go, oh and this picture is only their1/2 order!!

A traditional Greek salad with pitta on the side! It was good but not as fabulous as the ladopsomo!

Chicken gyro with fries. This is a dish I had never had before or come across. I was missing out! Inside the giant bread cone was chicken, tomato, onion, tzatziki,oregano and possibly more! Although the chicken was a little dry it was still oh so good and you have enough to take half away for another meal!

I could go on but I will capture more foody moments and combine them again in another post so for now I leave you with this…

My Panama Food Bio!

Favourite so far: Fried Patacones

Most missed: Although not quite food a cup of Yorkshire Tea. Oh and steak – Panamanian meat is just not the same!

Longing for day in day out: Vegetables and Salad Eat too much of here: Peanut butter on crackers

Best restaurant so far: Athens, a Greek restaurant close to Hispania where you get alot for your money and its delicious!

For my second Panamanian vacation, my fellow interns and I did a three night stay in Playa Venao. The interns and I stayed at Eco Venao, which is a reforestation project and lodging. This was my first run in with ecotourism in Panama. I couldn’t help but to draw parallels between Eco Venao and Kalu Yala.

Eco Venao is a gorgeous property beautifully landscaped with variety of tropical vegetation. There are defined hiking trails. Indigenous wood from plantations is used in all structures, which include the lodges, huts, and the restaurant and bar. Their commitment to recycling, using water saving devices, and solar energy sources is shared value of Kalu Yala. Once Kalu Yala starts development, I envision a lot of these same things.

Huts with really steep palm roofs were all over the property. A couple of weeks ago, I spent half the week hauling palm in the valley for a rancho that we are currently building. The main takeaway is that it takes a lot of work to build one roof, and the roof has to be replaced every five years. To me, that is a quick turnaround considering the amount of physical effort one expends.

Standing under the restaurant roof at Eco Venao, which is about three times the size of our rancho, I was thinking, “Replacing the roof on this must be awful.” My body hurt just thinking about it. I commented on how much palm is needed for all of their huts when I realized the manager didn’t really have a clue about how the roof is made or why it’s sustainable. This was disappointing for me. Once I realized this, I knew an engaging conversation about the reforestation project of Eco Venao would be out of the question.

Ecotourism will become a big part of Kalu Yala. When we have backpackers come out to visit the valley this semester for a long weekend trip, I want all the interns and not just the directors to be at least somewhat informed about everything we are doing in the valley. Just because we are business interns and our main focus is providing hospitality and marketing for the project doesn’t mean that we are exempt from understanding valley projects.

Since there are only eight interns this semester, I think this can be achieved. The best way to learn is to come out to the valley and work with the valley directors and their campesino friends, whose knowledge is invaluable. Thus far, five business interns and one director have all left the city and helped haul palm leaves off the hillside. Being out in the valley and working under such knowledgeable directors who are willing to teach has given me so much insight into how jungle processes work.

I am a thankful for this internship opportunity because it has given me the ability to be in the field learning. This knowledge base will enable all of us be better hosts and marketers for Kalu Yala because we’ll understand and appreciate the valley for what it is at this stage of development.

I have been in Panama for over a month now, and I have seen the city, the jungle, the beach all while meeting some awesome people. The one thing about home that I truly do miss is football, namely Purdue football. I haven’t missed a single home game in the past four years, and tailgating makes this game a pastime. I miss the grill. I miss pork, the beef, chicken, barbecue, and my personal favorite peppers stuffed with cream cheese wrapped in a piece of bacon.

As good as that menu is, I think the patacón should be added. It would complement those meat items so well. The sliced and fried green plantain is my favorite Panamanian food item so far. It’s not Panamanian food unless it’s fried! I have had it at least 10 times, including one time for breakfast. In fact, just this week I had some fresh patacónes from our garden in San Miguel that had been planted last fall by current valley Directors Brigitte Desvaux and Max Cooper.

Some refer to it as the French fry of the tropics; though, one can make an argument for the yucca. For me, it reminds me of the pub chips from my favorite restaurant 9 Irish Brothers in West Lafayette, Indiana. According to our valley chef Largo, patacónes are very simple to make. Just slice the plantain width wise so that each slice is coin-shaped, fry, mash, and fry again for a few seconds. Add some salt and ketchup or hot sauce (the preferable choice by my fellow interns) and you have an appetizing snack or breakfast that is cheap and simple to make. I can’t wait to make them when I get back in November for the final Purdue game of the season. Look out West Lafayette!

Here I am again, ready to gush to all our loyal Kalu Yala readers (I know you’re out there- over 8,000 hits this month!) about this internship and the incredible people I work with.

Five of my six incredible Business Interns are working together on a group entrepreneurship project, Kalu Yala Jungle Adventures and they are getting ready to launch!

As a team, they are developing the entire business proposal, from legalities to run-of-show, with the intent of not only running the 3-day/2-night trip twice, but also presenting it to potential Kalu Yala company investors.

Their first soft-opening trial run happened October 18th through 20th. They discounted the trip, which should be $100 based on our costs, to $50 for the all-inclusive weekend, which includes transportation, incredible meals by Chef Zac Long, and a boat-load of activities!

As most of you know by now, I moved here because of my first stint in the valley last July. It’s an incredible place that I think everyone should get a chance to visit. From swimming holes and jumping rocks, to hiking trails and bonfires, it’s my idea of the perfect oasis. It’s somewhere I can get away- like no place I’ve ever been. No cellphone, no computer. Possibly a good book. Definitely a sleeping bag (and they’ll provide those for the weekend!). There’s just no way to describe the feeling of playing volleyball in the middle of a rainforest valley.

To quote myself, here is my Facebook status update after returning from the Kalu Yala Valley last July… I think it sums up my feelings pretty well, and I hope it makes you want to come too:

I´ve spent the last 7 days in the Kalu Yala valley and neighboring town of San Miguel. I expected to only spend 4 days here and now I´m leaving feeling short on time. I am so impressed with each intern and director- each one working to make this place a better place- from machete trail blazing, to building stairs in the valley, to teaching English in the local school, to instant beautification through neighborhood trash pick-up, to amazing, scratch that, INCREDIBLE meals made on a camping stove. Community is something you can define in all the books you want, but until you live it you have no idea. I’ll take a tent, the Kalu Yala valley, the folks who inhabit it, work that makes you sweat, and a bottle of rum over a beach in Mexico or a ski slope in Colorado any day. Best vacation EVER.

This place is what makes me buzz. I’m so proud of the Business Interns for realizing the specialness of Kalu Yala and wanting to share it with those visiting Panama. It’ll be an experience unlike any other and I’m just so impressed with the thought and effort they’ve put into it. I’m pumped to see how this weekend goes as well as their final presentation- 10 weeks to build a business and I think they’ve done it!

If you’re interested in coming out on their next trip, it’s November 7th-9th for $50. You can email Haley at [email protected] or call 6894-7830. I’ll be out there!In what other internship could you build a company from scratch, use all the resources and amenities the parent company has to offer, and then actually run the trip?!  I love my job!

On this past break, the other interns and I visited Playa Venao which is located southwest of Panama City.

After 6 hours of traveling and switching buses in Las Tablas, we finally arrived at the beach.  Playa Venao, which is known to be a great place to surf and a popular place for domestic tourists to visit for the weekend, only has three hotels.  Instead of opting to stay on the beach, we stayed at a hostel called EcoVenao.  http://www.ecovenao.com/ The first night we splurged and stayed in a new house that was located on a hill overlooking the property.  It was so nice to have our own house with a full kitchen, air conditioning and even a hot shower!

EcoVenao was a really interesting place to stay.  It is a development which offers visitors the option to stay in houses, dormitories, private rooms, and it also has a bar/restaurant.  The development sits on 140 hectares of farmland in which their aim is to “establish a diverse natural forest cover within a financially viable framework” by reforesting the land.  I was impressed with the sustainable practices that the developers had implemented such as using local building materials, and employing techniques to deliver clean water to their visitors.

We even got to see some monkeys and other animals!

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Since our target market for the tourism project is backpackers, I am very interested is getting to meet more backpackers during my travels.  I have stayed at a few hostels in Europe, but never spent a considerable amount of time in one.  Although the rooming conditions are not ideal for me, the social situation is incredible.  At EcoVenao, despite it being the rainy season, I was able to meet visitors from Panama, Spain, Canada, and Switzerland.  It is so interesting to get to know about others careers, culture and past travel experiences.

One night, we went with a staff member from the hostel to see the sea turtles lay their eggs.  It was quite an adventure.  We squished into a car and drove down a road with no lights which was covered in pot holes. We arrived at an empty parking lot and boarded a small, old boat.  After a 30 minute, moonlit boat ride we arrived on Isla Canas.  There was currently no electricity on the island so the moon was the only thing providing light.

We walked along the beach in search of the turtles.  We were only able to find a few. One had already laid its eggs and was going back out to sea and the other was in the process of laying its eggs.  I was shocked that the Panamanian woman who took us there was running after the turtles and taking flash photos of them. She and the local guide were encouraging us to do the same and get in the pictures.  Before we went on the trip, we read that you should wear dark clothes and getting close to the turtles was not allowed.  Really just common sense rules. I just couldn’t believe that the locals were supporting these awful behaviors as it clearly disturbed the turtles.

The locals have a major issue with the turtle’s eggs being stolen or eaten by other animals.  Therefore, they have volunteers who guard the turtles and collect their eggs once they are buried.  All of the turtle eggs are put into a fenced in, locked “yard” on the beach where they will hatch.  The turtles will stay there until they are strong enough to protect themselves from predators. I thought it was a great practice in order to protect the baby turtles and continue to grow the population of sea turtles.  On one hand, the locals have this initiative in practice to protect the baby turtles, but on the other hand they are taking pictures with flashes. Some further education needs to take place with these locals.

For more information on Isla Canas: http://www.panamatours.com/Rainforest/canas_eng.htm

I would highly recommend that anyone who is interested in visiting Playa Venao stay at EcoVenao.  It is not only the least expensive place to stay in the area, but the staff is very accommodating, the food is delicious and there are a diverse set of activities offered such as surfing, and horseback riding.  I would also recommend buying food in Chitre and renting a car to drive there! Here is the official site for Pedasi and Playa Venao: www.pedasi.com

While in Panama, I want to start exploring more.  There are so many places to visit right outside the city.  Here is the ever-growing list of day trips I want to take:

-Gamboa, and Gatun Lake

-Pearl Islands whale watch

-Metropolitan Park

-Taboga Island

I’m open to other recommendations if you have any. Please leave a comment below and tell me where I should go, be it in the city or outside!

I know I typically write about my adventures while in Panama, but this blog post is going to be about everyone’s favorite soda Coca Cola.  In the United States I’m use to the Coca Cola/Pepsi battle but here in Panama Coca Cola is the dominating force.  Everywhere you look there are coke advertisements and people drinking the delicious beverage everywhere you turn.  Although I typically limit myself to these tasty drinks when I am at home in North Carolina, I have had the hardest time pulling myself away from them here in Panama. Not only is the taste consistent throughout the United States and Panama, but they are also easily accessible, cheap, cold, and served in recycled glass bottles.

Everyone remembers in the U.S. when coke use to only be served in glass bottles and you could get them anywhere from the corner store to the grocery store.  Now glass bottles are typically only found in specialty stores and are always priced higher than plastic bottles.  Here in Panama it is the complete opposite.  To find coke in the plastic bottle here is far less often and definitely caries a higher price tag than the glass bottles. Cokes can be found in pretty much any restaurant/fonda, grocery stores, super mini stores, convenient stores, and airports.  Sometimes you will even see them being sold out of food carts on the side of the road ( I choose to stay away from these though).

As I have found Coca Cola is the most widely available soda or carbonated beverage throughout Panama.  Everywhere you go will have an assortment of sodas such as Kist, Polar, Squirt, Fanta, Malta Del Baru, Pepsi, 7 Up, as well as many others, but none are as prevalent as Coca Cola. Another key reason I can’t stay away from these tasty beverages is it’s refreshing properties.  With Panama having the tropical climate it does, after a long day in the sun you need something to cool you down.  That is where coke comes into play.  It is at every corner and you can guarantee that it is going to be cold.

One of my favorite features about cokes here in Panama is the cost.  You can find a 16 oz coke anywhere from $0.50-$2.00.  The standard price for a coke is about $0.75.  An observation that I have made is that prices are higher in large cities and tourist destinations, while the outskirts and small towns have the cheapest cokes.  Another great way that Coca Cola has kept it’s prices low and encouraged repeat consumers is the recycling program they have for glass bottles.  At the super mini’s you can return your empty glass bottles for a refund of $0.25-$0.30 depending on who is working that day.  You can also enjoy your coke at the super mini and leave the bottle for a $0.30 discount.  This is a pretty great deal because once you rack up three empty glass bottles you can take them to the super mini and receive your free coke.  Now that’s a sweet deal!

Obviously Coca Cola has done it’s marketing and promotion the right way in Panama.  Obviously they got me!

We are no longer the strangers we once were to the concept that our way of life is an unsustainable one. The finite nature of the fossil fuels that we depend upon indicates that sooner rather than later we have to find an alternative way to keep the cogs of our modern world in motion.

Over the last 20 years, scientists have been hard at work to find an option that is viable in cost, efficiency and sustainability

Various avenues have been explored:

1)   Biofuel

2)   Natural Gas

3)   Electricity

4)   Hydrogen

For the purpose of this post I will be focusing on Bio-fuel.

According to http://www.biofuels.co.uk/ ‘Biodiesel entails the growing of crops that contain high amounts of natural oil, then through a process of hydrogenation or refining a more compatible bio diesel substitute is created, which can then be mixed with mineral diesel to be used in any diesel-powered automobile.’

Now what role could Panama possibly play in the development of sustainable energy?

A window of opportunity in this respect has been opened for Panama. The Bio-crop ‘Jatropha Curcas’ can be grown and cultivated in this tropical/subtropical environment of ours.

The crop is hailed as a drought resistant perennial crop that can grow in marginal/poor soil conditions. The crop produces nuts with an oil content of 37%. This oil can be combusted as a fuel without being refined, burning with a clear smoke-free flame.

This crop has attracted a lot of attention in recent years due these aforementioned characteristics. Its ability to grow on marginal lands means that plantations of Jatropha Curcas would not displace any existing rainforest or food crops. However, much of the press about this so-called ‘miracle’ crop is misleading. Although this crop may surpass others in terms of its growth capability, the growth and the mass cultivation of the crop are two very different things. In order for the Jatropha Curcas to flourish it requires; certain climatic conditions, fertilizer, the correct agronomy practices and a strain of seed that can thrive in this particular environment.

It can be grown well on degraded soils having low fertility and moisture and also on stony, shallow and even on calcareous soils. For economic returns, a soil with moderate fertility is preferred. The emergence of seed requires hot and humid climate. It can be cultivated successfully in the regions having scanty to heavy rainfall. Jatropha Curcas was announced by A. K. M. A. Islam*, Z. Yaakob and N. Anuar as “a multipurpose plant with considerable potential for the tropics”

Through the implementation of various ‘test sites’ placed across the areas that show the most promising characteristics in terms of available land and climate, an appropriate strain of seed can begin to be developed which will yield best under these conditions. Matching the science with the correct agronomy practices should provide Panama with a great resource that will prove to be a sustainable asset to the economy on a local level just as much as a commercial one. The nature of the crop requires a manual harvest rather than the machine based harvest that is used for the ethanol crop. This should provide work for local people who can use this crop in addition to what they are already farming.

In contribution to the crops potential as a source of Bio-fuel, there are many different off-products that can be derived from the cultivation process. These include; Green charcoal, Fertilizer, Pesticide and meal cake for livestock. This does not only emphasize the sustainable ethos of the plantation but also increases its viability, as another income source can be extracted from the project.

After three weeks since the start of our internship in Panama, Team Tourism is really starting to get the momentum going for our project. Our group consists of five hard working members, all assigned different tasks within the project while still working as a whole to produce a successful product under the Kalu Yala umbrella.

Team Tourism is starting up a sustainable tourism company that is seeking to provide the best jungle adventures in Panama by providing endless adventure in the heart of the Panamanian Rainforest and exciting cultural experiences for backpackers, outdoor enthusiasts and inspiration-seeking individuals.  The cultural experience might include interaction with the friendly campesinos that will be guiding the guests through the jungle during their hikes or teaching basket weaving back at our base camp. Also, being able to enjoy traditional Panamanian meals at a local fonda in San Miguel or partake in cheese making with the local cheesemaker.  The company will focus on quality services and adventures, sustainable practices, and an opportunity to partake and experience the Kalu Yala lifestyle, community, and culture; all providing an authentic experience with unforgettable memories.

The last 10 workdays have been split with a few days out in the Valley and then back in the city.

At the start of this 10-day work week, our group headed out of the city and split up between San Miguel and the Valley in the jungle to do some research and get some work done out there.  There were three of us that hiked into the Valley, and we stayed at Kalu Yala base camp for three days with the directors and two other interns that were out there.  Our work goal while in the Valley was to discuss our plans with the directors that live there and to see how involved they want to be in our excursions and their feedback on our ideas to see if they are feasible or not.  We received such positive feedback from them, it was very reassuring to know that they are excited about the project and want to be involved, as well as providing us with all kinds of ideas.We did work while we were out there!  Work that contributes to the greater project of Kalu Yala itself, that directly impacts our business endeavors.

One of the days, we headed out in the torrential downpour, hiked into the jungle and carried out giant old palm leaves (and by giant, I mean extremely long and heavy) that had been cut out of the trees the day before.  These palm leaves are used to build the roof of the ranchos that are being built for next semester’s interns and will be used by our tourism guests.  The roofs are very solid, withstand the rough weather, and last for about 5 years before needing to be replaced.  The process is very lengthy, so our team was glad that we could help out and speed things up.

The process starts with someone climbing up the palm trees with a machete and cutting down the old palm out of the trees; mind you, these trees may have snakes or scorpions so you must be very cautious! The palm is then piled up and is eventually carried out and down the mountain where it is tied into the back of the Land Cruiser and drug back to base camp.  The day we helped, we were carrying 4 palms (2 in each arm) down the mountain from three different locations, unless you are Jorge and you can run out with 8 palms over your head!  Craziness.  After a long morning of getting all of the cut palm down the mountain we headed back to camp; soaking wet, arms all cut up, dirt from head to toe, drenched boots, and bug bites but with a great sense of satisfaction.  All of that is part of the experience and we had so much fun getting dirty and working hard!

In the city, we have been focusing on research and producing all of the marketing collateral; going back and forth on the perfect verbiage, review and more review.  It is a long process, but I feel as if we are making great strides.  Meeting with the land development CEO, Jimmy, he proposed the idea of holding a creative session for our marketing materials.  It will be facilitated by one of our group members and the participants would consist of those outside of our project, other interns, directors, CEO, and marketing and creative gurus.  We look forward to hosting that next week and getting lots of ideas and feedback on content, image, design, etc.

Our 5 day vacation starts tomorrow and all of us interns are heading out to Pedesi to have some relaxing time on the beach and explore all that it has to offer.  When we return, I will be excited to get back to work, start putting everything into action, and make another trip to the Valley to start working on the Jungle Activity Guide that we will provide our guests with.  This is how I take advantage of the best of both worlds; by migrating back and forth between the jungle and the city!  It is awesome that the work for our project consists of both locations.

The best days as a Kalu Yala Intern are vacation days, and for every 10 days of work, we get 5 days of vacation.  The first vacation Nathan and I went on was to Santa Catalina.  This little surf town is located in the Veraguas Province on the Pacific side of Panama and about 6-7 hours north of Panama City.  So our first adventure to Santa Catalina was catching the bus from Albrook Mall to Sona.  We woke and were on the metro bus to Albrook by 9:00 A.M. Once we arrived at Albrook we found the bus terminal that goes to Sona and bought tickets for $ 10 dollars a person.  After our surfboards had been loaded underneath we climbed on the charter bus and waited for our departure.  While we waited we ate our breakfast of PB&J’s and canned coke. Not the healthiest of breakfasts but it was what we had.  Finally the bus departed the station and off we went to Sona.  As we rode the bus I once again got to travel over the Panama Canal Bridge and got to see all the large cargo ships traveling along the Canal.  It’s amazing to see the Canal and know that it is a man-made structure that was built over a century ago.  The amount of work that must have gone into the Canal is hard to fathom.

The bus ride to Sona was suppose to be about a 4 hour trip.  Luckily for us this bus wasn’t horribly cold like most other charter buses down here but it did have it’s downfall.  The whole way to Sona the bus blasted the sound on the movies and luckily for us they were all children’s cartoons like Madagascar, a Kangaroo movie, and my personal favorite Alvin and the Chipmunks.  No matter how loud we turned up our music and tried to sleep the sound of the Chipmunks continued to invade our sanity.  At the halfway point we stopped at a great little rest stop that was very clean, had reasonably priced souvenirs and some good smelling food.  When I climbed back on the bus I found my lovely boyfriend Nathan munching on some fried chicken legs. He said it was some of the best fried chicken he had had in a while. He offered me some but 10:30 was a little to early for fried chicken for me.

Once we arrived in Sona we had just enough time to grab our stuff from the bus we were on and hop on the bus going to Santa Catalina.  It wasn’t one of the big charter buses we had just gotten off of but one that looked a little more dated and definitely smaller.  I didn’t even know if we were going to be able to fit the surfboards in but apparently the bus driver had experience with them before because he stuck them through a window in the back of the bus and somehow wrangled the surfboards into the overhead compartments.  Just had to duck if you were headed to the seats in the back. From Sona it was suppose to be a busride that could take anywhere from 45 minutes to 2 hours.  Why such a big time duration you may ask?  Well in Panama a very large portion of the population takes public transportation everywhere.  To have a car in Panama isn’t a necessity, it is a luxury.

After what seems like 20 minutes we hear a loud bang, resembling an explosion, and the bus begins to slow and finally comes to a skreaching halt.  Yep our bus had broken down so pretty much every man on the bus jumps out to inspect what they think could be the problem.  Of course no one sees anything and the bus driver starts back up the engine like looking at the bus was going to miraculous fix our busted bus.  To no ones surprise the bus wasn’t fix and just made a bad grinding noise when the bus driver gave it gas.  After this I think they got the message and everyone unloaded.  Luckily though there was another bus that was approaching from the other direction that the bus driver was able to convince to take us all to Santa Catalina and you know what the funny part was we still had to pay for transportation on that broken down bus. I wasn’t very happy about that.  So on we climbed onto a different bus that was equally dilapidated as the one we had just gotten off of.  It was another 2 hours after we got on that bus until we arrived in Santa Catalina.  It seemed like every 5 minutes we were stopping to drop someone off at their home.  Nathan found a friend though on the last bus whose name was Rachel. I think she was somewhere between the ages of 7-8 and really enjoyed smiling, staring, and talking to Nathan.

Once we arrived in the little beach town of Santa Catalina we were instantly greeted by a guy named Jeff who said he worked at a new resort called Time Out Cabanas and was trying to book guests at a still under construction rate of $50.  This was a little too steep for our budget and we already had in mind that we were going to stay at Oasis Surf Camp which was located on right on the beach at a good surfing spot and had great reviews from the Lonely Planet Panama book.  Even though we refused Jeff’s services he offered to take us to Oasis Surf Camp so we didn’t have to hike in.  It was about a 15 minute hike to Oasis Surf Camp from the bus stop and the center of their little town.  Once we arrived at Oasis we offered to tip Jeff for taking us, but he refused and just asked us to come check out Time Out Cabanas if we got the opportunity.

Nathan and I crossed the little river that cuts Oasis Surf Camp off from the rest of Santa Catalina and go into the office of the camp to retrieve our keys and room assignment.  Room rates were $40 and included a private bath that was suppose to have hot water; unfortunately though that was just a myth.  Oasis Surf Camp was really cute with it’s different colored cabins, palm trees, and Palm roofed cabanas.  Plus it was literaly sitting right on the beach.  You could walk out your door onto sandy ground and be in the water in less than a minute.

We were assigned room number 6 so we walked down the line of cabins and found our to be of a bright lime green color with a hammock swinging on the porch.  We went inside and were satisfied with the room but the bed situation didn’t make me happy.  In the one and only room were three twin beds.  One a single one on the right side and bunk beds on the left side.  This wasn’t quite how I wanted to spend my first night on vacation since that is currently what I have been sleeping on in the Kalu Yala internship house, but hey it was better than nothing.  Since the day was approaching late afternoon and a storm approached we decided to hang out in the cabin until the electricity went out.  That is one thing that is a constant battle in Santa Catalina.  Over our stay of five days, the electricity went out three times.  Anyway since the electricity was out we decided to go try and find some cervezas.  Luckily we didn’t have to explore too far and went right over the little river to a hostel/restaurant named Mama Ines.  Here we saw a couple of friends we had met on the bus and enjoyed a beer or two watching the sun slowly slink away.  After that it got dark really fast and the bugs came out.  Since the electricity still hadn’t come back on after we had finished our beers Mama Ines didn’t serve dinner that night, so we along with our California girl friend decided to go back to Oasis to see if they were still serving dinner.  Luckily for us we crossed the river and the surf camp had lights.  This was a good sign and meant dinner for us.

The restaurant is Italian owned and had very good food.  For an appetizer we got bruschetta and I think it is some of the best bruschetta I have ever had.  For dinner Nathan and Reesa had fish with a garlic sauce that came with rice, or patacones and a salad.  I had the fried fish with patacones and a salad.  I was very satisfied with my choice because the salad was very fresh and I got a whole fish, head and all.  Overall dinner was great except for a pesky cat who wouldn’t leave me alone because he wanted my fish.  He was a persistant little bugger who was clawing my leg and one time almost jumped in my lap to try and steal my fish away.  Even after bonking him on the head with the handle of my knife he still didn’t get the hint until a staff member of the restaurant came over and scared him off.  At the end of our dinner Reesa returned to her hostel and we decided to go hang out in our cabin.  As we walked back home we saw what had to be hundreds of crabs running all over the sand.  Both big and small ghost crabs as well as tons of hermit crabs.  On our porch alone there we about five hermit crabs and three ghost crabs.  I got a couple pictures and hung out in the hammock a while before we turned in for the night.

The next morning we woke up and checked out the surf.  Unfortunately it was still overcast and cloudy.  The waves were no good either because it was so choppy. So we hung out around the surf camp for a little while and I got to do a little writing in my travel journal.  After an hour or so Nathan decided to go surfing since the waves had cleaned up a bit and I continued my writing in the hammock until the house made came up to me and tried to ask if I we were going to stay the next night or check out.  I thought we had to be out by 12:00 that afternoon, but she must have been ready to get us out of there becuase she ran me out at 11:40.  I wasn’t too happy about this and was glad to move on to the next place.

We decided to check out the situation at Mama Ines hostel but unfortunately there wasn’t any private rooms for the night so we decided to stay and have lunch and continue on our way.  For lunch both Nathan and I had what we were going to be chicken tacos.  When it came out though it was an open soft shell taco with re-fried beans, chicken, lettuce, tomato, and onions.  It was surprisingly good though and we were glad it was only like $5.00.  We also got a side order of patacones that were exceptionally tasty.  After settling up for lunch we decided we would go check out Time Out Cabanas and see what they could offer us.

We walked about ten minutes along the one and only road in Santa Catalina which is lined with mountains, and cow fields until we found the road that lead to Time Out Cabanas.  As soon as we entered the big wooden doors of Time Out Cabanas we knew we were heaven.  Surrounding us were twelve cabanas, a large pool with swim up bar, and a palm covered pool house that we soon found was going to be the restaurant. Behind the bright blue pool was lush green grass and another small palm covered building holding several hammocks, which were perfect for watching the sun slowly sink over the ocean.  About fifteen yards from the hammock cabana was a steep drop-off lined with palm trees that overlooked the rocky point and Pacific ocean.

As we stood around and looked at the resort Jeff walked outside and began to talk to us.  He showed us around the property, and then took us to check out one of the cabanas.  Each cabana was equipped with a porch, a full sized kitchen, a bedroom that had a queen bed, A/C, a flat-screen T.V., and dual sliding glass doors that led onto the porch. There was also a bathroom with modern appliances and hot showers.  We couldn’t have been any happier with the $ 50 under construction price, so we told Jeff we would take it for the night.  Luckily we got the cabana with the hammock on the porch too.

While we were getting settled in we got to the man in charge of Time Out Cabanas whose name was Phil.  He was a cool guy and offered to help us in any possible.  He even showed us his freezer full of goodies that made us fall in love with Time Out even more.  Phil told us that since Santa Catalina was such a small place that a big grocery store was nonexistent and that the only place to buy groceries in the town was at the Panamanian tienda, which is usually very under stocked and have a very limited selection.  That is why Phil thought it was essential to have frozen foods as well as produce available to his guests.  We were very thankful for this because we got to cook our own delicious meals consisting of filet mignon,  giant prawn, potatoes and onions, and tomatoes.  He even offered to let us use his personal grill.  Man those filet mignons were delicious and very reasonably priced at $4 a bag; which usually contained 2-3 pieces of meat.  This guy had figured it out.  Everything from the atmosphere to the small details, such as providing food, had  been thought of and we were so glad to be enjoying it in the solitude of the little surf town of Santa Catalina.  This is what we had been looking for.

That night we slept the best we had slept in a while.  Maybe it was the clean delicious smelling sheets or maybe our full bellies, but regardless we were happy and excited to start the new day. Once again we made an awesome meal of fried eggs, potatoes and onions, and what do you know more filet mignon.  Breakfast of champions for sure, but we were going to need all that protein for surfing and swimming.  After we cleaned up from breakfast we took a walk down the rocky shore and found what seemed like hundreds of pieces of sea glass, as well as some really pretty conch shells.  At the end of the rocky shore was a path up to Pooky’s old house which was located right on the point and was the best spot to watch the waves roll.  We sat and watched the waves until Nathan worked up the courage to go test out the legendary surf spot.  The point in Santa Catalina is a rocky right breaking point that has on average 4-15 foot waves weights, with the largest wave faces reaching 20-25 feet between the months of February to August.  Talk about some big waves! The day Nathan decided to go beast the point the waves were anywhere from 8-12 feet.  This was a little intimidating I’m sure but he paddled out and surfed his first point break.  In total he successfully caught five waves.  I was sitting at Pooky’s house watching, taking pictures and doing a little praying for my brave surfer.

Finally Nathan’s surfing session was over at the point and we decided to go check out the other surf spot in Santa Catalina called Estero.  This sandy beach break is a great place for beginners to intermediate surfers and the ideal place for me to do a little surfing.  Off we took with our surf boards under our arms passing Mama Ines, the little river, and finally to Estero beach where Oasis Surf Camp is located.  Once there we were a little disappointed in the waves but decided to go out anyway.  It took a while to paddle out since the ocean was a little choppy but once I finally made it out I realized it was probably too big for me, and I was right because as soon as Nathan realized that I wasn’t surfing in the whitewater close to shore he yelled at me to go back in because the waves were too big and he didn’t want me getting into a bad situation.  So I paddled in, put my board on the beach, and went back out into the ocean for a little swimming.  We stayed at Estero for probably two hours and decided it was time to walk into town to get some supplies for dinner.  So we walked into the center of town to find the tienda; which like Phil said was very under-stocked.  They didn’t have any beer in their fridge or any colas. We were able to find a pineapple, and a bag of Cheetos, some vanilla wafers, a bag of spaghetti noodles, and two little packets of spaghetti sauce though.  With this we decided that we would buy some shrimp and beer from Phil and would make spaghetti with shrimp for dinner that night.

The next day we woke up and had Spanish omelettes and Duran coffee for breakfast.  We once again took a walk on the rocky shore to digest our breakfast and look for more shells.  After we checked the point and decided that the tide was still too low for Nathan to go surfing, so we went back to Time Out and spent a little time enjoying the pool.  We had a friend join us in the pool too.  The rottweiler named Bronco had decided he needed to cool off as well and sat on the pool steps watching as we swam around.  Then he decided he needed to go to the swim up bar and chill for a minute.  I thought this was the funniest thing but then Phil showed up and reprimanded Bronco for joining in on our pool fun.  Guess it wasn’t as amusing to him that his dog was swimming in the brand new clean pool.

A couple hours passed and Nathan decided to go surf the point.  This time I decided to stay at the pool and take full advantage of the rest and relaxation.  I periodically went and checked on Nathan though making sure the monster waves of Santa Catalina hadn’t gobbled him up.  One time I had gone to check on him I got to see a huge set of at least 12 foot waves roll in and whipe out a handful of surfers.  I hated it for them but as far as I know everyone made it safely through them and continued on with their wave chasing.

I returned to the pool after my second check and decided to eat some Cheetos, and continue my sun bathing.  After a while Nathan came up and we hung out in the pool for a little while.  As we sat there a storm began to creep up on us and we knew it wouldn’t be long before our beautiful beach day was over.  Luckily for us we had prime seats for the show.  As it began to rain we made our way down to the palm cabana with the hammocks and watched as the storm enveloped us.  Lighting lit up the sky and the thunder crashed down like a bomb.  The rain would come in heavy sheets that blocked our view of the surrounding mountains and even the island that was across the way from Santa Catalina.  I don’t think I’ve been that close to such a large storm in a long time.  It had so much power that I sometimes considered abandoning the hammock cabana to find safer shelter but the storm captured me and I had to watch.  It was beautiful and mesmerizing.

After the storm let up we decided that we would clean up for the evening and go get some food. By this time the power had gone out in Santa Cataling so Phil gave us a candle to light our way.  We had read some great reviews about the pizza place Jammin that was right in front of Time Out Cabanas so we decided we would try that.  Stone oven pizzas are always great and we hadn’t had pizza in a while.  We asked Phil and Jeff if they wanted to join us for dinner and they agreed, so we all headed to Jammin dodging the puddles and hoping that the pizza place would be open since the electricity was still out.

As we arrived at Jammin, seriously a minute walk from Time Out Cabanas, we noticed that it was open and candles were lit everywhere.  Obviously this was a common thing in Santa Catalina so having candles on hand was essential.  Jammin was a bright blue two story building that had all open air seating.  The atmosphere was very warm and colorful and made you want to sit and enjoy pizza and beers all evening in the candle light.  The four of us all ordered a round of Balboas and looked over the long pizza menu.  They had all the traditional pizza toppings I am use to but they also had some I wasn’t so familiar with but still sounded very good.  One of those pizzas was a tuna pizza with onions and olives.  Although it sounded like something I liked I decided to go with my favorite pizza of pepperoni, mushrooms, and black olives.  Nathan decided on a Hawaiian style pizza that consisted of ham and pineapple, and he also added jalapenos onto it.  Phil and Jeff also went with the Hawaiian pizza but they shared the one  instead of getting a whole pizza like Nathan and I did.

We didn’t have to wait long for the pizza at all and were even a little shocked at how fast they came out.  I couldn’t have been any happier with my pizza though.  It was a thin, flat-crust pizza with loads of delicious cheese and fresh ingredients.  This is probably one of the best pizzas I have ever had, so eating the whole thing wasn’t a problem.  I started by not eating any of the crust, but after finishing the whole pie I decided I had to go back and finish off the crust too. It was just too delicious not to. After a few more beers and some good dinner conversations we decided it was time to settle up and get back to Time Out.

We had heard that the bar up the road was suppose to be having a big party that night, but Nathan and I were a bit beat so we decided to stay at Time Out while Phil and Jeff went to go have a few drinks and mingle with the locals.  With our bellies full of pizza and a few beers it wasn’t long before Nathan and I were down for the count.  We awoke the next morning knowing today was the day we would be going back to Panama City and back to work.  Nathan was up and out before I even crawled out of bed.  He wanted to surf the point one more time before we left Santa Catalina.  Luckily he got a couple waves in and came back to help me get breakfast ready.  Our last breakfast at Time Out Cabanas was another breakfast of champions.  We had filet mignon, eggs, and potatoes with onions.  During our stay at Time Out we definitely ate like royalty.  Boy do I miss those filets right now.

After breakfast we packed our stuff, said our goodbyes to Phil and his doggies, and climbed in the back of Jeff’s truck.  Off we went flying past the little town of Santa Catalina and through the lush green terrain.  As we approached Sona we could see the sky turning into a dark grey mass of clouds and knew that we would soon be getting wet, and boy we were right.  About five minutes outside of town the sky fell out, but luckily for Nathan and I we were partially protected by the cab of the truck.  Our German friend who was sitting in the rear of the truck bed wasn’t so lucky though.  We pulled into the bus station and quickly unloaded.  Nathan and our German friend had to run to the ATM to take money out so I waited at the bus station hoping that Nathan would get back in time for us to catch the next bus to Panama City.  According to the bus schedule the next bus out was at 1:30 and it was currently 1:23.  Time was running out and we hadn’t even found that bus that we needed to catch.  Luckily Nathan got back around 1:27 and we were able to run and hop on the bus going back to the city.  Although we thought we had just made it we ended up sitting at the bus stop in Sona for another thirty to forty minutes waiting for the bus to fill to capacity.  Finally we pulled out of Sona and were headed on our way back to Panama City.  This bus seemed to take forever though and the bus drivers continued to stop and cram more and more people onto the bus.  This got old really fast and unfortunately for us we had decided to sit at the very back of the bus so we were pretty smashed, and not to mention poor Nathan was soaked and the bus was heavily air-conditioned.  Luckily I had gotten on the bus and was able to change clothes while Nathan held up a towel for me.

After what seemed like hours and hours we finally began to see signs for Panama City, but once again the Panamanian culture overtook us and the bus broke down.  By this time I was over it and was just ready to get off of that cramped freezing bus.  Luckily it was just a flat tire and the bus drivers had it fixed with twenty minutes.  On we go, over the Panama Canal bridge and finally to Albrook Mall where we would catch the metro bus to our apartment behind Parque Urraca.  Finally we made it back to our apartment and were thankful to be home.  It had been an adventure for sure.  We sat on our porch and reflected on our trip to Santa Catalina.  Although we had had our difficulties with transportation to and from Santa Catalina overall the trip had been amazing and we were thankful for the great hospitality and friendships we had made at Time Out Cabanas.  There we had found paradise and it had rejuvenated our minds and spirits.  Hopefully I will get the opportunity to visit the beautiful little surf town of Santa Catalina again very soon!

Yes, I am blatantly stealing the title of this post from The Beatles. I heard about thirty of their songs last night at The Beatles Symphony Tour here in Panama City. Along with a psychedelic video backdrop, a Beatles cover band from Venezeula played all the hits accompanied by a Panamanian orchestra. I’m not a huge Beatles fan but it was pretty neat, especially after a few cold Balboas.

I feel this blog title aptly describes the journey undertaken from Panama City to San Miguel. For those of you that do not know, San Miguel is the community closest to base camp and the future site of the Kalu Yala development. San Miguel is a tiny, rural town, home to about 500, and is roughly 3 miles from Kalu Yala’s property. KY owns a house in San Miguel for interns to serve as the base for the Community Outreach and Education programs. As you can imagine, a bunch of gringos make quite the splash in such a remote place in Panama. According to longer-term Kalu Yalans, making friends in San Miguel has been quite the challenge, but necessary as all future residents and visitors to the valley must pass through this sleepy little town where everyone knows everyone. The Education and Community Outreach programs offer interns a chance to teach English in the local school and to work on various community projects. Whitney will be continuing an after school soccer program in San Miguel this fall.

The journey to San Miguel can exhaust your patience, but the peaceful tranquility gained upon arrival is worth it. Business interns first cross Parque Urraca out the front door and then about 10 lanes of traffic to get to the bus stop. After that, the bus will come between anywhere from 5 to 25 minutes later, depending on time of day, traffic, weather….

The bus that picks us up is one of the new buses of the MetroBus System, not the old spray-painted and tricked out U.S. school buses known as the Diablos Rojos that cruise around the country. The MetroBus to the town of 24 de Diciembre (yes this is actually a town named after Christmas Eve) is usually rather pleasant on a modern, air conditioned bus. Things change when you get off the bus in 24. You’re now in what I can only describe as a flea market/interstate exit with 8 lanes of traffic. With street vendors selling fruits and vegetables, pawn shops, giant grocery stores, a KFC, a casino, and all kinds of other businesses, this place is a zoo. But, the veggies are cheap and people are relatively nice. 24 isn’t a place you want to stay, but its the closest place for stocking up for a trip to San Miguel or the valley.

After getting necessary supplies, it’s time to wait at the bus terminal for our ride to San Miguel. The bus out to San Miguel does not seem to come that often. To the best that I can tell, a bus leaves the terminal every hour, but this is always subject to change. I’ve made the trip twice and had to wait quite a while both times. Thankfully, there is a stand next to the bus lines that sells batidos, ice cold Panamanian milkshakesmoothies. I recommend the mango or the strawberry.

The trip from 24 to San Miguel takes about 45 minutes as we pass through green hills and small towns, the opposite of bustling Panama City. It’s weird to be back on a former U.S. school bus as it reminds me of second grade. I easily get lost in thought as the hills roll by.

Before I know it, we’re in San Miguel. The sound of the birds and the rushing river water are refreshing. This trip, it is impossible to let anyone know that we’re coming to do a little planning for hosting guests in November; and we find the gate to the San Miguel house locked. Haley and I quickly hop over the fence and let ourselves in. Obviously, no one is there but Jorge, the house watchman and valley legend, soon stops by to check on the place. We enjoy the daylight fading and sit outside to chat for a bit about basketball (he’s a big Lakers fan but is concerned about Kobe getting old), life in the valley, volleyball, and various past interns and their escapades. It’s good to talk to him for a bit and he heads home for dinner.

We decide to cook as well. The vegetables we got from 24, two chicken breasts, rice, and pineapple for a delicious yet also healthy and cheap meal. It’s nice to have a meal plan in the city but I really miss cooking for myself and I know Haley does too. After dinner we sit outside and talk for a bit in the cool evening. As we look across the patio, we see four of the biggest toads we have ever seen! I have never seen anything like these monsters and did not want to get too close. It’s pretty quiet in San Miguel so we turn in early after sitting outside and later watching a movie.

The next morning we set out to get information on local businesses and restaurants, our purpose for coming to San Miguel. As we plan to host the first tourist trip to the valley in November, it’s important to know the hours of local restaurants and the offerings of the local adventure tourism company. Everyone we meet with is really friendly, especially the ladies at the local breakfast place. We order several cups of coffee and they chat it up with us. After speaking with them we head over to the adventure tourism company which offers ziplining and whitewater rafting. We find out their prices ($25 for an hour of ziplining and $50 for three hours of rafting) and begin a potential business relationship for the future. I doubt we will offer ziplining through them for this first trip, but it’s good to have established a contact for the future.

After hanging out in San Miguel and drinking another coffee it’s time to do the journey all over again and head back to the city. Although we’ve only spent a night here, it was refreshing to hear the river and experience a bit of small town living where there are more horses and cows in the street than cars. Everyone we encountered was extremely nice and this quick trip really left a happy feeling within me. I look forward to taking that long, windy road to San Miguel again soon.

So for our first vacation we headed to Isla Grande. It is located on the Caribbean side of Panama, near to Portobelo and Colon. It should take just over 2 hours to get there but if you’re like us then that could easily end up being 7! My advice is DO NOT take a diablo rojo from Sabanitos back to Albrook it was an experience and one I’ld happily not repeat!

We had heard it that it was a picturesque tropical island where the weathers good, it is cheap to stay and the beach would be our spot for a couple of days however 7 of us went and we weren’t overly enthused by it!.

Admittedly we went on a weekday and during rainy season so this inhibited our picture perfect 3 day get away. The Panamanians tend to head out to Isla Grande at the weekends or so research led me to believe so whilst we were there it seemed like we were the only people on the island which wouldn’t be a problem if there was enough to see and do.

How to get there:
From Hispania we decided to get a cab to Albrook Mall Bus Terminal, this cost us $1 per person.

We went to the bus ticket counter with a sign above it saying Colon and told said we wanted to go to Isla Grande, the lady we spoke to was very helpful and showed us the bus we needed to get on as well as telling us where to change buses.
We were set back $3.60 for an air-conditioned bus as well as a film so not bad at all. The journey took us approximately 1hour 30minutes.

Sabanitos is where you need to change buses, you will know you’re at the right place because the stop is outside a supermarket called ‘El Rey’. Here you take a Diablo Rojo to La Guiara $2.60. The bus you need to get on says Costa Arriba. The journey lasts just under an hour. The last stop on this is where you catch the water taxi over to Isla Grande this will cost $2.50, make sure you the boat driver where you’re staying or you’ll be dropped off potentially on the wrong side of the island.

Total travel cost: $9.70 so under $20 round trip!

Let me tell you how it really is, warts and all…the beach is very small about the size of the Casa Yala boardroom! Saying that there are deckchairs and other spots placed around the island where you can easily relax if the weather is good. There is also a lot of rubbish scattered around the island as they have no waste system so once a week a boat will take it back across to the mainland.

What to do:

Well this is debatable, according to some Google searching snorkelling is big around this island and just off the small beach there is a reef. We were unable to do this as we had no equipment and there was nowhere to hire out the equipment from what we could see.

Another option is to hike to the lighthouse which is on the further side of the island. According to sources its about a 20 minute hike and isn’t too challenging.

An option is to ask politely at Hotel Isla Grande if you can use their private beach, on the internet it said that you should be prepared to pay $2 to lay on it though but a little bartering with the staff couldn’t hurt! This hotel also have a catamaran that they use to tour around the island for a $15 this would also be a great opportunity for snorkelling. Unfortunately we were unable to do this as the boats motor had just broken.

Where to stay:

We stayed at Congo which is a basic hostel, the rooms are your typical dorm style with bunk beds.

A positive to this hostel is that the beds are all double. The room came with AC and an en suite bathroom. If you look past the fact the door didn’t shut unless you locked it or the ceiling that had a few holes here and there it was alright to stay in. Carlos is the man in charge here and he is lovely, anything you need he will provide!
This has a really cool bar/restaurant which is situated on a jetty and has a gorgeous atmosphere to it so hanging out there at night is a must.

Price: $25 and includes breakfast and a drink whether this be beer or juice!

Another option is El Nido de Postre, this is run buy a French man and his wife. They are lovely though the woman can get angry at her staff as we overheard! This place was something quite special, the décor is a treat!!

The rooms, where some other interns stayed had space for 7 and an en suite however the sleeping arrangement was as follows; an open air area upstairs with hammocks as well as single beds. It was charmingly decorated and had mosquito nets and curtains to give yourself some privacy.

The food here is very good, its not cheap but it tastes amazing, no one was let down by what they ordered! Their desserts looked amazing and include brownies and ice cream or cinco leches a take on the usual tres leches!

Price: $25 or $35 including breakfast.

Hotel Isla Grande, I didn’t know anyone that stayed here but it looked spacious and gave you privacy unlike hostel style accommodation. This also has a restaurant and bar and would be more moderately priced I would have thought!

Price: $84 for the room which has 2 double beds.

Obviously there is other accommodation on the island but I do not know anything about it. Bananas Hostel is on the other side and rumour has it there is a pool! Online reviews didn’t rave about it though hence we stayed at other places.

Recommendations:

• Buy alcohol from the supermarket in Sabanitos, its a lot cheaper than the island and also take snacks with you.
• During rainy season take an umbrella and or waterproof jacket as the watertaxi is a simple motorboat without shelter!
• Take entertainment, books/games as there is not a lot to do on this island.

Although my experience of Isla Grande wasn’t the best I am sure that if the weather had been better and there had been more people to create a vibrant atmosphere it would not be a wasted trip.

To be honest, my first impression of the valley farm was “What farm?”. In the month that Kalu Yala staff had off, the grass grew five feet tall. The garden just looked like a bunch of weeds.

That was almost a month ago.

A week later, I returned to the valley and Alex Goff, the recently appointed Agriculture Director, had completely transformed the space. The overgrown grass had been hacked down and he had already planted cucumbers, plantains, squash, corn, tomatoes, potatoes, beans, yuca, and much more.

Also, a new Magic Circle had been dug. This is a composting pit dug in the ground about 18-36 inches deep and 6 feet wide. Typically, you grow plantains, squash, and corn around the exterior of pit. The plants will flourish from the nutrients of the decomposing material in the pit.

This past week, when I was back in the valley, three more Magic Circles were created. The dug up dirt from the Magic Circles was used to create a raised bed. More squash, corn, and cucumbers had been planted. An herb garden consisting of lemongrass, thyme, cilantro, culantro, rosemary, and couple of different basils was put in. Our cucumber plant growing in the trench around our rancho produced for us two cucumbers this week, which we promptly ate.

It’s only been two weeks and the farm has come a long way. Given that fall is the time to plant in Panama, I can’t wait to see how it will progress over the next two months! From continuing to hack back all the overgrown grass to extending our plantain farm and consuming all the yummy fruits and veggies it produces.

The last few weeks have been exciting here in Panama. We had our first vacation, made a lot of progress on our tourism project and took another trip out to the valley.

On the vacation side:
For our first vacation, myself and 6 others took a trip out to Isla Grande. From the reviews we read online, we were expecting a quaint town with white sandy beaches.  I think this is one of the cases where we should not believe the online reviews.  There was only one beach on the island and it was quite small.  We did have a good time meeting some of the locals and the few other backpackers on the island, but it was definitely not the beach vacation we were anticipating.

When it comes to tourism in Panama, it is so much different than in the U.S. There are so many beautiful places here that remain untouched by large scale tourism.  The trip to Isla Grande was a real authentic experience.  We stayed in a hostel owned by someone from Panama and ate the local food.  If this quaint little island existed in the U.S., it would be likely covered in modern, large hotels.  It is very interesting to visit a place that has maintained its authenticity.  The lack of large, upscale infrastructure may also be the reason why it has remained mainly a domestic tourist and backpacker place to go.

On the work side:
Kimberly Hall came to speak to us. She is originally from the U.S. and moved to Panama about 6 years ago.  She has had a variety of different jobs in Panama and offered the interns some words of advice.  She talked about finding a good mentor who can teach us and said it does not matter what we are doing as long as we are learning a lot. This advice makes me feel better about not knowing exactly what I want to do within the realm of tourism. I know I want to do something tourism related so now I’m on the hunt for a tourism mentor.  If you know of anyone- let me know!

We are making a lot of headway with the plans for our trip out to the valley with backpackers. We are working on marketing materials, competition research and did some site visits to nearby target hostels. The hostels that I visited were more than willing to work with us on the project and help to promote it.  We are thinking of offering a type of FAM tour out to the valley for the hostel owners to see how great the experience is.

On one of the visits to a hostel in Casco Viejo (the old city), I passed by a restaurant I had eaten at 2 years ago when I was here in Panama. I cannot believe how much the area has changed since I was here. There is construction everywhere.  Unfortunately, companies are currently buying the old buildings and tearing them down while the city is in the process of getting the buildings declared as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.  It is really sad.  I hope that a stop is put to this soon and the old character of the majority of the buildings is preserved instead of making that part of Panama as modern as the rest of the city is turning out to be (one of the buildings being restored is pictured below).

Two of the other interns and I spent a few days out the valley to further explore the swimming holes, trails and other activities we can offer to the backpackers who come on our first Kalu Yala Jungle Adventures trip.  The valley staff was completely on board with the trip and that made the other interns and I even more excited to run the trip! We helped the valley staff carry large palm leaves down a slippery hill in the down pouring rain.  It was an experience I really enjoyed though I will probably never again have the opportunity to do it.

Most days I go for a run down the boardwalk right outside our house close to Parque Urraca.  It gives me some time to observe the locals in their daily life.  Here are some observations I’ve made about living in Panama:

• Why do Panamanians honk when they are in stopped traffic? The car in front of you can’t go anywhere
• If I want to cross the street at a crosswalk, I have to take my life into my own hands.  We have started calling crossing the street taking a death run.
• It is still very popular to rollerblade in Panama. I might get myself a pair of skates.
• There are security/police officers basically every 20 feet on the boardwalk. I’m not sure if this makes me feel safer that they are there, or feel like I shouldn’t be there.
• Panamanians are afraid of the rain. In a place where half the year is the rainy season, I just don’t understand this.

We are off to Playa Venao and Pedasi in a few days.  I am looking to spending a few days laying on the beach (for real this time)!

It is amazing how fast time flies.  We have been here for 3 weeks now and so much has happened.  I have decided to plant a medicinal garden in the valley as my main project and, in addition, to teach English in San Miguel two days a week.  This past week I went to the valley for 3 nights and helped gather materials for the construction of the third rancho.

The materials are sourced from the valley which include collecting and milling  tree wood for the posts, palm for the roof, and rocks for the floor base.  On this trip, we helped bring the palm off the mountain.  Before I had arrived, the directors climbed up into the palm trees and used a machete and to break off the dead palm to use for the roof.  In the dead palm holds venomous snakes and spiders which is only one of the many difficulties they faced.  This process actually primes the tree and encourages more growth.  The palm trees are located in various points throughout the jungle up the mountains in sometimes difficult to access locations.

When I had arrived we pulled the palm from these locations and to an easier access point.  The following day we did “palm runs.”  Imagine hiking 7 minutes up a trail to grab 4 15 foot palm leaves, turning around, bringing it straight back down to the road, only to turn around and do it all over again.  This work was strenuous, but also so rewarding.  Everyone working together and pushing themselves made it easier to keep going and I look forward to the next time I am able to help out.  I have so much respect for the current directors living out there and the past interns who have done this work day in and day out and continue to do so.

After a hard day’s work, we were rewarded with blue skies and beautiful weather to head down to the rio for dinner on the beach with Duran by our side.  That is something I will not be taking for granted.  In comparison with the city, you can’t beat the beauty and serenity of the jungle.  It is safe to say that I am in love with the valley!

First impressions can often be deceiving, judgements made before they should. I think a lot of people, myself included, would judge Panama before they have had the time to look around and get to know all that it has to offer. With this in mind I was intent on not critiquing the country before I should, if at all! So far juxtaposition is my word of choice for the city. On the one side we have Casco Viejo the older part of town with shops and street vendors galore. The other has a skyline of skyscrapers obstructing the view the Pacific Ocean.Do you see what I mean?

Let me now take you on a journey from the city all the way to the valley. In order to get to the valley the luxury, yes luxury, of a metro bus is needed to take you to the bustling town of Viente Cuatro de Deciembre. You read that right, it is named the 24th of December. Whoever named it is obviously a big Christmas fan! Whilst there people watching had to be my past time of choice. The eclectic mix of people and animals running across the road, selling fruit and vegetables and buying phones (there was a phone store every other shop or so it seemed). From Viente Cuatro we got on a ‘Diablo Rojo’ which literally translates to the red devil, you can now see why the metro bus was luxurious! These are no ordinary buses, oh no, these are old school buses that have been painted, had stickers stuck on and speakers added – a sort of ‘pimp my bus’! Music blaring and school kids squished into every part of the bus we set on the hour journey to the quaint but thriving town of San Miguel. If anyone reading this has ever been to Fiji or a similar country picture the smallest town that you remember and think of that to imagine San Miguel. It is basically a very rural road with a few houses here and there, two mini grocery stores that you do not go in but instead talk through the grate to the bored looking chinese lady who orders her kids to get what you want, as well as most importantly a ‘Taverna’ in the middle where the locals will sit and drink from 12pm until well whenever they feel like it, that’s them and how it is. After an excruciatingly painful trek for 2hours battling with the heat, the constant vertical hills, running low on water and a few tears I made it into the heart of the Panamanian jungle. I am so proud of myself. For someone that does not do well with hiking this was a challenge but one that I will be doing again just to experience all that the jungle offers, besides the hike out is all downhill! The valley is incredible, beautiful, a blank canvas and so much more. For what is essentially a camping site until the eco-town starts construction this is of upper class with water filtration systems and toilets (cleaner than some dunnies I’ve dealt with in on my travels). Words cannot do it justice, it is best to come out and experience it for yourselves. The people, the atmosphere, the Abuelo rum has made my time not only in the valley but in Panama that much more of an awesome beginning to what I can only imagine to be a fabulous internship.

Final thought…is everyone in Panama overly friendly or are they just gawping at the gringos? So far I believe it unfortunately to be the latter. Lynette Andrews and I have decided that the way to get around it is to tell them we’re famous and they can only have one picture of us!

Thats all from me, a valley food blog will be coming shortly! For more information about me check out my bio and/or my facebook!

Panama is where I decided I wanted to start my journey into Central America.  The goal was to establish myself somewhere for a period of time and become a part of something where I am contributing towards making a positive impact on this World.  I felt complete once I landed a business internship at Kalu Yala, a place of excitement, creativity, and sustainability.

Kalu Yala has three different locations in Panama, providing a variety of opportunity for the interns.  The locations include Panama City; a hub for international banking and commerce and considered to be the most important city in Central America.  San Miguel, a small village town, located on the Pacora River, one hour outside of Panama City.  The last location being the Kalu Yala Valley, a 1.5-2 hour uphill hike from San Miguel into a beautiful valley in the Rainforest. The base camp in the Valley is where the Kalu Yala community will eventually be built.

Coming into this internship I was torn between wanting to be an outdoor recreation intern who lived in the Valley and pursued my passion of the outdoors or to be a business intern living in the city, pursuing my professional career.

The journey to the Valley was intense, fun, frustrating, humid, and sweaty.  From crowded public transport, trying to find live chickens for sale, and eventually hiking straight up for two hours; it was all absolutely worth it to reach the most incredible place.  Life in the Valley consists of sleeping in a rancho (a two story native hut, without walls, and a thick palm leaf roof), to eating the best camp food ever, by Chef Largo, showering in the swimming holes on the nearby rivers, hiking the trails into the jungle and maintaining them with machetes, building new structures in the Valley, and much more.  To many, this could be too short of living without the desired luxuries of toilets, showers, beds or much privacy.  But the tradeoff is that you are breathing clean, fresh air in a beautiful valley in the middle of the jungle, living sustainably, with outdoor adventure at your fingertips.

It truly is the best of both worlds when you have the opportunity to take a break from the exciting and bustling city, with all of the desired luxuries and venture into the peaceful, simple and beautiful nature of the Rainforest.  I am so excited for my project this semester; keep posted for the discussion on how I will incorporate both worlds into it.

If you haven’t yet, please go to our new website: www.kaluyalastudyabroad.com.

On with the story::::

My name is Kate Stice Stewart and I’m the president of Kalu Yala Independent Study Abroad and Entrepreneurial Internships.

I studied abroad in Switzerland in 2006, graduated college in 2008, traveled the world for six months on my own, did a three-month internship and got a great job. Almost 2 years later I realized that job wasn’t going anywhere so I quit in time to attend the inaugural Summer 2010 Kalu Yala Internship as an student. Arriving home, I got another “great” job that had me in a cubicle for 8 hours a day. During this time I married a wonderful man, got cozy in our own home and adopted a dog. But something was still missing- and I was reading about it online every day at www.kaluyala.com (Look at the comments and you’ll see I account for about 75% of them!)

This past July, I came down to visit my brother, Jimmy, who is the CEO of the Kalu Yala land development company. On Day 2 of my eight day trip, we headed out to Kalu Yala for what was supposed to be one night. The next morning, when Jimmy had to pack up and leave for the city, I told him just to leave me and I’d find my own way to the airport. Kalu Yala, though nothing more than a few open-air structures, and the Summer 2012 students were just that incredible.

That trip confirmed what I knew I’d been missing in my life. People who were passionate about their JOB. People who wanted to DO SOMETHING they LOVE throughout every waking moment. They knew they didn’t want a job that they had to “get through” until the weekend. They wanted to wake up and do something that they cared about. And most of the time, that they created from scratch for themselves.

These were people who knew they didn’t know everything. People who cared to learn about what they didn’t know, and were happy to listen to other people explain it. People who admitted to mistakes, swam in rivers, moved mountains with conversations, and understood that no one “in charge” had all the answers either… And didn’t expect them to.

Leaving my husband and dog back in Atlanta (they will come visit!), I’ve joined the Kalu Yala family for one reason- it is the best place in the world to live and work because I can chase MY dreams with others who are chasing THEIR dreams. Every single day!

We give students the opportunity to create their own projects- based around their interests and the community’s potential needs- and see it through to fruition. We have awesome, young directors who are more zealous about life and their subjects than any professor I had in school. We sincerely believe in get-your-hands-dirty trial-and-error learning. We don’t own a copy machine. We fetch our own coffee.

Personally, I had a three-month internship with a small PR firm- and you know what I did for 3 months? Data entry and data clean-up. Day in and day out. That is something NO student here will ever have the displeasure of saying. Our students DO SOMETHING, and it’s based around WHAT THEY LOVE.

I realize that the line between the Kalu Yala land development company and Kalu Yala Independent Study Abroad and Entrepreneurial Internships company may look a bit hazy. This is no surprise, since in just two years the student company has sprouted into something of its own- literally.

I want to take a minute to explain what Kalu Yala Independent Study Abroad and Entrepreneurial Internships is- and what we see as our purpose.

1) Why do we exist?
Kalu Yala Independent Study Abroad and Entrepreneurial Internships exist to create a community before the Kalu Yala community. The culture that is forming now will be the lasting legacy directly affecting the place Kalu Yala will be.

Kalu Yala Independent Study Abroad and Entrepreneurial Internships was assembled by the Kalu Yala land development company to bring students and young professionals from around the world to Panama. Kalu Yala Independent Study Abroad and Entrepreneurial Internships is financially self perpetuated, ergo; the students are required to pay for the program in order to participate. This tuition covers the costs Kalu Yala Independent Study Abroad and Entrepreneurial Internships from housing and Meal Plan to Director salaries and vehicles. Duties of the student vary from student to student based on their semester project that they determine with the aid of their Director. It can range from creating business proposals, to working with the local community, to mapping trails, to developing a farming system and beyond, all dependent on the student’s interests.

As a whole, the town of Kalu Yala is still operating in its beginning stages- nothing has been built yet. The land development company was established in 2008; however, the student branch began in Summer 2010 and has only been operating in the future home of Kalu Yala since Summer 2011. Kalu Yala Independent Study Abroad and Entrepreneurial Internships is its own company, operating closely yet independently from the land development company.

2) What do we do?
Kalu Yala Independent Study Abroad and Entrepreneurial Internships brings students and young professionals to Panama to participate in or design a semester project that could eventually impact the town of Kalu Yala. We are creating the community before the community, a culture that will last forever.

3) How do we behave?
Kalu Yalans are (1) passionate (2) positive (3) actively pursuing. (AKA the 3 P’s of Panama)

Kalu Yalans are passionate about what they’re doing so they are positive and actively pursuing their goals.

I hope that this simple explanation gives you a better picture of what we’re here to do–  Kalu Yala Independent Study Abroad and Entrepreneurial Internships is here to focus on YOU and give YOU the opportunity to make an impact on the future community. This place means so much to me- and so many others who have come through the program. It’s truly the most unique program of its kind and a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

If you have any questions, feel free to send them my way: [email protected]. I’d love to hear from you 🙂

Regards from Panama,

Kate

Please visit www.kaluyalastudyabroad.com for more information.

I wasn’t sure what kind of living situation I would be getting into when I decided to intern for Kalu Yala, but I knew it would be some sort of social experiment.  Kalu Yala rents out the top floor of Edificio Hispañia, a beautiful pink building on the edge of Parque Urraca near central Panama City.  The floor is divided into two units, with one reserved for Kalu Yala interns and the other, Casa Yala, a residence for travelers, transients, and aspiring entrepreneurs moving to Panama City.  The minimum requirement of one-month residency attracts people serious about living in Panama and keeps people’s things from disappearing as this can happen in a traditional hostel setting.

This type of living situation reminds me of my stint in the dorms of UNC-Wilmington almost a decade ago.  With people constantly in and out, cooking food, working on projects, playing music, and making art, there is never a dull moment around here.  The Kalu Yala interns are a creative bunch as are the people staying in Casa Yala, providing a rich environment for developing ideas and learning from one another.  There are several different nationalities represented, including local Panamanians, Americans, Argentineans, and even some people from England to share a pint with.  Having all of these people and perspectives in one place is turning into a very valuable part of the overall internship experience for me.

The living situation here is quite comfortable despite the constant beeping from the streets below, cold showers, crowded refrigerator, and having to share only a couple bathrooms.  As long as people do their dishes and remember to take out the trash, things will be just fine.  In addition to the great view, the “Kalu compound” comes complete with washer and dryer, internet, two kitchens, a gorgeous outdoor porch overlooking Parque Urraca, and even a couple surfboards laying around to borrow.  There is also a bus stop across the park that connects us to the rest of the city, a nearby supermarket, and plenty of restaurants and bars within walking distance.  The main seafood market is about a mile away and there are dozens of fresh ceviche stands, which are quickly becoming one of my favorite attractions in the city.  The central neighborhood of Bella Vista is relatively safe compared to the rest of the city and the brand new skyscrapers are all around us.

All things considered, the living situation here at Kalu Yala’s business program is pretty swell.  The convenience of the neighborhood mixed with the collection of creative, intelligent characters provides an exciting living abroad opportunity.  However, my favorite part of living here might have to be the fantastic view at night from our private rooftop access….

During my first week as in intern for Kalu Yala, I had the opportunity to explore the true Panamanian jungle.  No I don’t mean the kind of hike that is structured for tours and has roped off trails but the kind that is untamed, overgrown, and wild.  The only things that have seen the jungle as I have are the hardcore Campesinos who live there and cows.

Our journey started off early Saturday morning with a group of nine.  Our first adventure was to find Ramon who lives about a mile above the Valley, the property that is currently in the process of being developed by Kalu Yala.  All nine of us started off and made it to Ramon’s house to find his brother Darian who said Ramon was off in search of fruit and would be home in about fifteen minutes.  As we waited for Ramon to come home we cooled ourselves in the river that runs parallel to Ramon’s property named the Pacora River.  Finally Ramon returned home and agreed to take our brigade on a trip through the jungle to the waterfall.

Off we go and Ramon isn’t joking around when I say hike, we went on a hike.  He was prepared too with his Panamanian hat, pants, galoshes, two dogs, machete, and rifle.  Ramon told us that the rifle was for protection because only a few days before we had arrived a jaguar had crossed over the path we were currently walking on.  As we start off on the trail we are moving through canopy of the jungle at a pace I would say was a little faster than I would have liked. Being the gringo, I wanted to leisurely stroll through the jungle looking up at all the foliage and searching for birds, snakes, animals, or anything that was out of the ordinary to me; but no, Ramon was on a mission to get us to the waterfall.  So off we go through the jungle trying to snap pictures every now and again when I thought I could afford a minute to fall behind.  In total the hike was supposed to be about an hour and a half uphill and downhill.  Luckily for us we were under the protection of the canopy for most of the hike so the heat didn’t effect us too badly. After about an hour, still on Ramon’s property, we make it to one of his native style shanties where he keeps his cattle.  Here we stopped and had a short break where we got to pick and eat juicy oranges, which were unlike any orange I had ever had before. They were delicious to say the least.

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After the short break in the cow/orange field we continued on our journey to the waterfall.  Ramon said we had another thirty minutes from that point.  Uphill we climb through the head high grass and jungle foliage.  Luckily for me I had worn quick-dry pants which protected my legs from the sharp grass; unfortunately several of the girls wore shorts though and got a little cut up.  Nothing too bad though.  As we begin to round the top of the mountain the sky begins to cloud up and we can tell the heavens are about to open up on us.  Down we climb, down the biggest, slipperiest, mountain slope I have ever been on.  In front of me I see Ken slip and take out the girl that is sliding down ahead of him on her butt.  Glad I wasn’t in his way.  Behind me I hear Nathan and Kate questioning whether or not we should  turn around since the slope is already pretty slick and the rainstorm that is about to hit is going to make matters a hundred times worse.  Regardless we continue down the mountain and begin to hear the churning of the waterfall.  At the bottom of the slope we see the breathtaking sixty-foot waterfall.  It was an amazing sight to see and well worth the hike.  As we begin stripping off our hiking gear and begin jumping in the pool at the bottom of the waterfall the rain begins.  It was a surreal moment to say the least.  Never have I seen such a beautiful sight in Panama.  The surrounding environment was so pristine and untouched that I couldn’t do anything but think about how I may be one of the only people to have seen this waterfall.  We asked Ramon if this waterfall even had a name and his only response was “cascada”, so for story telling purposes I have named it Ramon’s Waterfall.

As we begin jumping off the rocks into the water we notice the temperature in this river called the Iguana River is much much cooler than any of the other rivers we have come upon so far.  It almost took my breath away when I first jumped in.  After we all had a little fun of jumping off the rocks and swimming around Kate unpacked our lunches of PB& J’s and we all grubbed out.  As we were eating and swimming Ramon motioned for us to look up into the distant trees, where there was a family of spider monkeys watching us.  I know they thought we must have been aliens because they just kept watching and swinging from limb to limb trying to get a better look at us. Seeing monkeys in their natural environment was another amazing sight to see.

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After about thirty minutes at the waterfall we decide it is best to begin our long journey back.  It is still raining which means our trip home will be taking even longer.  Our first mission is to climb the now muddy, slippery, steep slope. This time I refused to be the back of the pack and was the first person behind Ramon.  As we began our climb Ramon started cutting steps out of the mud with his machete to help the people who were climbing behind us.  Instead of taking the slippery slope I decided to make my own trail and cut though a side path which I thought would be less slippery and messy.  I was climbing holding onto trees and roots for support when I came upon a hole in the earth about a foot wide.  In this hole was a hodgepodge of spider webs.  My instant reaction was oh my gosh this has to be a nasty spider, maybe a tarantula or maybe something even bigger and badder.  Regardless I scrambled away from that hole as fast as possible.  Up the mountain I went and was the first one up.  When Ramon finally reached the top he was amazed I was waiting on him and he told me I was a very strong woman. That was a good thing to hear from the Campesino who had been living in this jungle for over forty years.

Once everyone made it to the top of the muddy mountain we continued on our hike through the canopy, while Ramon pointed out wild trees such as the cacao tree, and coffee trees. I had never seen wild coffee before so this was quite a thrill for me.  As we approached out first river crossing we realized that the rain had already changed the color of the crystal clear river to a murky red color.  We also noticed that the water level had risen and was flowing at a faster rate than when we had previously crossed it.  Ramon told us we needed to pick up our pace because the water level and the current would continue to get worse as we progressed back to the Valley.  This worried us a little because we had fourteen more river crossings to go before we made it back to camp.  As we hastened our pace we became more of a team helping one another across the rivers, and always making sure that safety came first.

It was amazing to me the stability and pace that this sixty-four year old Panamanian could maintain while going through these jungle trails and crossing rivers.  Only once did I see Ramon slip.  This was one of the roughest river crossing we had to make.  Anyway he had his machete, and rifle in one hand, and his little five pound dog Salsa in the other hand.  Although he slipped, he was up, out of the water, and crossing downstream before another person could even cross.  That man knew what he was doing.

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Finally after what seemed like hours we made it back to Ramon’s house where we dropped him off and continued on our way back to camp.  It had been a long day but well worth the struggle.  The waterfall was amazing and the chance to actually be in untouched jungle territory was unlike anything I had ever done before.  I am glad I decided to go on that adventure.  It was a once in a lifetime opportunity in my eyes and now I have a great story to tell.  The story of Ramon’s Waterfall.

I have now been in Panama for over a week and it has been quite an adventure already.  The interns and I have met with leading architects, built a sign out of recycled plastic bags, explored Panama City, eaten at 2 fondas in San Miguel, and hiked for 2 hours straight uphill— this all culminated in reaching the valley.

The trip to the valley was much anticipated because I have been hearing great things about it since I landed in Panama City. When I finally reached the valley, my expectations were exceeded.   Picture this, 2 small, natively built structures in the middle of a huge field of green, and surrounded by mountains on all sides.  It is just incredible place to be.  My favorite part about the location of the future Kalu Yala is that it is very close to the river.

I was pleasantly surprised to hear about the great relationships that the Kalu Yala staff based in the valley have developed with the campesinos (individuals who live near the site).   Some of the neighbors have even helped with construction on the rancheros (the built structures in the valley).

I’m really looking forward to starting on my project for the semester- to organize trips for backpackers out to the valley.  This part of the country is not usually explored by tourists, so I believe that there will be a high demand for this type of authentic experience.

Before my arrival in Panama I was struggling to understand what exactly Kalu Yala was about. On initial investigation, I was able to ascertain from my trawl through the internet that it was the development of a sustainable town within a 500+ acre property in the heart of a 7000+ acre river valley. My initial problem in understanding this concept was ‘how can such a development occur without destroying exactly what they are trying to protect?’

The answer to this became clear to me on arrival. In our induction week we were painted a clearer picture of what exactly their intensions were by the Kalu Yala CEO Jimmy Stice. There is a much bigger picture than just the building of an eco-town in the jungle. Kalu Yala has recognised the inefficiencies of the modern built environment, its shortcomings and the society values that have been shed along the way as a repercussion of rapid technological change.

Kalu Yala is about changing the way cities are built by placing an emphasis on the symbiotic relationship between people and their surroundings. This is where the term ‘New Urbanism’ comes into play. To quote from newurbanism.org ‘this is an international movement to reform the design of the built environment, raising our quality of life and standard of living by creating better places to live. New Urbanism is the revival of our lost art of place-making, and is essentially a re-ordering of the built environment into the form of complete cities, towns, villages, and neighborhoods – the way communities have been built for centuries around the world’.

Over the last 50 years or so all the major cities across the globe have been victim to urban sprawl. The consequence of this ‘sprawl’ is that planning is thrown out the window leaving you with a built environment that does not make any sense; from the proximity between living quarters to the infrastructure that surrounds it and the absence of communal space that congests it. So the Kalu Yala development intends to create a town that works with the environment rather than against it, using planning ideologies such as ‘new urbanism’ along side agricultural programmes such as Permaculture (as shown to us by ‘AG’ Director Alex Goff on our arrival into the valley site), to create a self sustaining community that is rich in relationships and has a real sense of place.

Ed Everett in the Root Series lectures opened with the statement “our most important infrastructure is yet our most forgotten infrastructure.” The point that he is making is how community was previously intrinsic to the workings of a healthy living environment. We have lost these notions in our strife for success; pressured by time, money and the break down in family cohesion – often as a result of  higher divorce rates and career driven parents. Mr Everett’s proposed solution to this is to create an environment which encourages interaction between neighbours, reversing the negative affect of privatised lesure and re-building the lost bonds of trust.

Our group of interns just got back from a three day stint in the jungle. We did a lot things including exploring the valley. We hiked every day, which looking back is pretty amazing considering I can’t recall ever hiking in my life. Starting in the town of San Miguel, fellow interns Lynette, Laura, and I hiked with our packs for 1 hour and 45 minutes until we reached base camp. Most of the hike was uphill, in the sun, and on unpaved road. At times, it seems impossible. I learned to take it slow, but to keep moving. The faster you move, the faster you get done with it. Fortunately, I managed to get only 2 blisters.

The next morning, Brigitte the Outdoor Recreation Director, took all of us on a two hour hike on the Honeycreeper Hiking Trail, named after a bird seen just off the path. She is a very knowledgeable guide who was able to point out and describe various wildlife species. She told us that essentially the only real threats to humans in the jungle are the snakes and spiders. As long as you don’t provoke it, you should be safe and the rivers are totally safe.

The following day the local legend, Ramon, took us on a four hour hike with 30 river crossings round trip to see and swim in a waterfall. Because it rained when we reached the waterfall the river was moving rapidly for the hike back, which made it difficult to cross and added to the adventure. We saw a black and red snake on the way back (my first snake spotting); fortunately, Ramon came over and hacked it with his machete. As we were finishing Ramon took us by his property and picked for us the juiciest oranges I have ever tasted.

The next morning, we left camp on foot again to head back to San Miguel where we caught the bus to go back into the city. The hike out of the valley was cake because it was mostly downhill. Four hikes in four days are fun and very doable even for the non hiker such as me.

Summer 2012 Picture Slideshow

big thank you to all the interns and staff who made Summer 2012 one that we will never forget! The video covers the Summer 2012 Internship and Independent Study Abroad Experience from Panama City to San Miguel to the Kalu Yala Valley, followed by some great vacation pictures.

Song is “Space and Time” by 009 Sound System

Songs that should have been featured are: “Tried and True”- Ween “No Ceiling”- Eddie Vedder “Old Man”- Neil Young “The Great Gig in the Sky”- Pink Floyd “Purple Rain”- Prince “I Feel Good”- James Brown “Somebody that I Used to Know”- Gotye “Turn the Page” – Bob Seger And there should be a little dubstep mix up in there

During my stay in the valley I attempted to create a clay oven to bake and cook pizza in. Long story short I was never able to build the actual oven part of this clay oven. We built the structure for the oven to be built on out of wood, chicken wire and concrete. There is an area for wood that’s nearby the oven and covered by terra cotta, to keep the wood dry. Within the last week we built a roof with recycled wooden posts and a zinc roof. However, I did not have enough time to gather and dry the clay and sand mixture to make an oven stable enough to overcome the elements in the jungle. (The clay takes about two days to dry and it kept getting wet in the rain no matter how much I covered it with tarp.) I want to thank Brigitte and Jorge for helping put a roof over the base during my last few days in the valley.

I’m disappointed we were never able to complete and cook in the oven, but I can take pleasure in the fact that I did have another side project I was working on, the park near the orchard. When I first took a look at this park I had no idea how to tame the weeds, plants, grasses and dormillones (sleeping plant/most annoying vine ever) enough to make it an enjoyable park.

I marked down the boundaries with Brigitte one day and put together a preliminary sketch of the park and a description of it from a park-making perspective…

“There is a living fence on the west, south, and east sides of the park to separate it from the pasture. In the center of the park is a medium sized tree with painted rocks and a tye-die sign marked ‘Kalu Yala’. The northeast corner of the park has an even aged stand of trees a bit bigger than saplings in orderly lines that would make a beautiful shaded area. There is a slight slope downward in this area. Behind this is a secluded clearing of lower grasses that receives nearly full sunlight. This could be made into a more private picnic area. In the upper west corner of the park there are spaced out larger trees, the biggest being a guava tree that could easily have a swing or tire swing. As one moves south the brush gets increasingly more dense. The densest weeds and brush is in the southeast corner. There are natural paths made between very tall grasses that could be eventually opened up into walking paths.”

Jillian and I built a gate into the living fence that surrounds the park. Also, this semester we were able to make a walking path labelled with red stakes that lead visitors up to and through the park. Clearing the path with machetes and rakes took a lot of work but luckily the path has not grown back too much. One of the most difficult parts of clearing paths in the jungle is how fast the brush grows back, especially after heavy rainstorms. I faced dormillones, fire ants and the heat of the sun while clearing this trail so I can really say that blood, sweat and tears went into its construction!

There are still so many options for this park’s future. Furniture would be nice in some areas. Stone would be beautiful, however, it must be taken from the river area which is quite far from the park. A swing on the big guava tree would be a fun enhancement and a grill or two for camping would suit the park perfectly. Lighting at night along the trails could be a future project as well. When we visited Catalino’s (a local campesino) farm I noticed some interesting lighting around his pool area. There were these solar powered orbs, no taller than a foot or two. I wanted to steal this idea for lighting along the trail, but I couldn’t quite understand how to make such a thing myself. It would be ideal if a future intern picked up this idea and implemented these inventive light fixtures. I was impressed but how they look natural and understated, but at the same time interesting and modern.

Now that I’ve reached the end of my internship I’m sad to leave the place where I’ve spent so much time and worked hard on. The valley will always remain as a place of peace, friendship and harmony with nature. I can’t wait to see what future interns, employees etc. form the place into. I know I will return some day!

Until Later
-Mal

When we walk out of the valley at the end of each stint I’ve noticed some things about how the surrounding community of San Miguel looks at us “jungle folk”. They think we’re all crazy! I’ve had my legs pointed to about every time I talk to a San Miguel community member from the sweet older librarian (Miriam) to a little girl that helped me on the day of the river cleanup. They ask what happened to me and if I’m tired. They wish me great luck when I leave to hike back. They stare at my cuts and bruises acquired from daily work and 4th of July parties. They’re basically wondering why in the hell I would want to walk up and down at least five steep hills in order to live in the middle of nowhere, aka Basecamp, aka los Tres Brazos, aka los Tigres (both of these refer to the rivers that intersect near our camp).

Early on, when I would arrive in San Miguel after our hike out of the valley I’d ask if there was a word for “hiking” or “to hike” in Spanish, but no one could tell me anything different than “caminar” to walk. It seems to me that Panamanians don’t really hike unless they have to. In light of Ecotourism and Kalu Yala this may present some problems getting Panamanian customers to want to visit such an “Americanized” outdoor experience. Hiking in general is an interesting concept. When did the idea of walking up difficult terrain for pleasure first take root? And why does hiking capture the amount of tourists it does in the US, Australia etc? This is just one of many thoughts I’ve had circling in my head the past few days on two of the longest hikes I’ve ever been on.

The first was an adventure I went on with Austin, Aaron, and Jamie up the tributary near Ramon’s house that leads into the Iguana River. We were instructed to try and find the source of the tributary and collect bugs and things for science. At about 8 a.m. we crossed a barbed wire fence and in no time were in primary forest. We began clamoring up rocks in and around the trickling water of the tributary. I jumped across one rock a little too excitedly and fell stomach first into a round river rock. Luckily the boys were too far ahead to take notice. I saw birds, plants, and bugs that could only be found in such an untouched rainforest. One bird in particular looked as though it was straight out of the movie Avatar. We spent an uncomfortable amount of time machete-ing uphill through dense vines and plants after the gully that had been the tributary ran dry. It was pouring rain and I was using all my strength to balance on the dirt-covered hillside, meanwhile moving upwards slowly, all the while avoiding biting ants. Then, to our relief we came up on a trail. It went up, up, up the mountainside until it reached the driveway of a Campesino’s house. We inspected it from afar then went further up the mountain. We eventually found a sign for the outer limits of Chagres National Park. The first one we found was so old we thought we uncovered a secret hatch to another world.

After a long day we pitched our tent, collected some rainwater from the house we found (thanks man, sorry we couldn’t ask first), and made a fire to cook our camping food on. It was a day long hike that’s left a vividly positive mark on my memory.

This past weekend I went on another epic hike in Boquete. Jill, Hattie, Aaron, Jordan and I hiked up Volcán Baru (11,398 ft), the highest point in Panama. We began hiking at midnight, reached the top around 4:30 am, then ascended the peak as the sun rose. It was beautiful, but the hardest hikes of my life, so far. The steep hike in the dark is what really gets inside your head. A few of us considered turning back, but we didn’t let ourselves give up. When you can’t see anything your body is even more likely to feel how much it’s working in every step, but the top is that much more rewarding. When your standing on the peak looking down at the entire country you can feel the rush of accomplishment and appreciation of the beauty you’re experiencing.

As the clock ticks ever away, I have just over a week left in Panama until I hop on an airplane and fly hundreds of miles back to the United States to leave this tiny country far behind. While I write, I’m sitting out on a balcony overlooking the bright city lights illuminating the starless black night, and maybe it’s the sappy, heartbroken pop music I’m listening to talking, but I’m definitely getting that bittersweet series-finale vibe. You know, when all the characters part ways, sad to see each other go, but blessed to have had the opportunity to share their time and lives with strangers who became great friends. All that remains is to neatly tie up all the loose ends into satisfying conclusions, and to ice the cake with an obligatory tear-inducing yet hopeful and inspiring goodbye scene, and then roll the credits.

There are a few minor plot lines I want to take care of in my spare time, like taking a few photos, do a bit more writing, and finishing The Hobbit (the sixth book I’ve read since coming here), and one major one: finish the construction of my aquaponics system. It’s coming along, I’ve got all the parts and the pond is dug and lined, now I need to get cracking on the piping and beautification. I can’t wait to see this project finished, it’s more than a little exciting and I’m hoping and pushing for aquaponics to be expanded upon in Kalu Yala in the future. To aid in this vision I’ve been creating a guide booklet to aquaponics to keep online and in physical form around the three Kalu Yala residencies, which I hope will inspire interest and lend helpful information and resources to interns who arrive long after I have gone. After all, that’s what we’re all about, isn’t it? I don’t have time to do everything I would love to see done, so I pass the torch and do my best to give that person a head start so they can buildoff of my work and take it even further. We’re working together to change something for the good.

The only bad part about all of this is that it means that my time is almost over. It may be only a season closer for Kalu Yala, but my series is in for a much more final finale. I can already hear the sounds of the melancholy song fading in as the camera zooms out and pans away from the characters slowly. Goodbyes are hard to say, and sometime’s it’s hard to see the ‘good’ in them, but I’m thankful for everything I’ve been a part of and all the friends I’ve made that makes saying the word so sad. And who knows, if the ratings were good enough (and I’d venture to say they were), who’s to say that someday in the future there won’t be a sequel?

It’s 1:58 PM, and I’m pressed against the back of a standard Eagle school bus (American made, Panama adored), using my backpack as a seat and the shoulders of two schoolboys as my only support to avoid tumbling into the already tangled legs of at least seven pubescent Panamanians. Still attached to the elementary-level novelty that the back of the bus is where the cool kids sit, I had pushed my way as far as any human could for the long ride home half an hour prior, fully understanding the fate I had resigned myself to. Panama has encouraged the idea, at least in part; maybe they’re not so cool, but the last three rows are crammed with kids. Loud, smelly, hairy (for a bunch of thirteen-year-olds), angsty, flirty, mind-blowingly frustrating kids.

I’m offered a seat between two of them, a seat so unappetizing that I actually laugh when met with the inquiry, instead gesturing to the 40 something señor next to me, who at four inches shorter looked about four levels above the patience I currently maintained. When compared with a seat that would involve sweating half of my ass off, becoming reacquainted with the odiferous scent of middle-school boy and being shouted at or over in Spanish for more than an hour, I’d take none at all, any day of the week.

It’s now 2:04 PM, and I’ve been standing for over two hours.

I’ll spare you the gritty details of Panama’s mass transportation system, but in order to get a more sensuous feel for how we travel in this country, I would like to briefly outline the average journey from Panama City to San Miguel:

1. Any process begins with getting to the first destination: the bus stop. We are lucky enough to live right across one; however, this is the stop toward the city, not away from it. It’s as though Panama City would rather you never leave, but if you really want to, you can die trying. To get to the departing stop, just cross three lanes of traffic, only one complete with a legitimate crosswalk, avoiding the barrage of honks of varying pitch and speeding vehicles as you tempt fate. Extra points if you can jump in with a group of bolder, braver Panamanians who will cross regardless of how fast that Ford Expedition is barreling towards you.
2. Step two requires a Metrobus, if you’re lucky enough to corral one. On a good day, Panama’s newest addition to its public transportation will show up within ten minutes. I’ve had about one good day in Panama City. More likely you’ll wait in the sweltering heat for half an hour or more, cursing in the language of your choosing every time a bus drives past, flashing Tocumen or Panama Viejo or, God forbid, En Transito. Once a ride has been secured, you’ve got about a 30/70 chance of it being a slightly enjoyable trip of air conditioning, mildly comfortable seats and quiet, or the more likely full-sweat, full-stand cattle drive to veinticuatro de diciembre.
3. So you’ve made it to the glory that is 24. You’ve passed the pushy fruit stand owners, managed to hold your nose long enough to evade the scents of the highway, and dodged the taxis and Suburbans shooting at you like a cheap arcade game, only to find yourself in la doña, waiting in a line so long it has to be considered cruel and unusual punishment. The torture is only furthered when you see three chivas brilliantly displaying ‘San Miguel – La Doña’ in the parking lot. I would like to thank all involved participants of la doña for teaching me the values of patience, endurance and a good McDonald’s ice cream cone, though I’d prefer to never, ever come back.
4. After waiting any amount of time – from less than a minute to over an hour – you’re granted the greatest blessing of all: knowing the true meaning of sweat. For all you athletes out there, I challenge you to the 75 minute work out of a chiva ride. For the sauna lovers, I’ve got one right here for you, and it’ll only cost you a dollar and your sanity. For my adrenaline junkies of the world, I dare you to be the last one on the bus. You’ll spend your chiva time hanging out of the door, one foot’s slip away from Panama’s latest highway shutdown.

You’re probably wondering why I’d choose to spend my last blog blasting Panama’s public transportation system to all seven hells. Isn’t there something more philosophical, more meaningful that I’ve gotten out of eleven weeks in this country? Haven’t I learned more than to spend time exercising my negativity?

Maybe there’s hope for me yet. I’d be lying if I said I was going to miss the Metrobus, the wait for a chiva, the sights and smells of such an ordeal. But I’d be blind if I said it didn’t teach me anything.

I wasn’t able to secure an actual seat on the chiva until after we crossed the first bridge before San Miguel, an event that signifies twenty minutes left in the trip. At this point, there are only a handful of stragglers left, so the bus is relatively quiet, save for a five-year-old jumping from seat to seat and her older brother, giggling at the monkey. At this point, I could use a chuckle, so I look up to take in such an energy I cannot ever imagine possessing, when a signature catches my eye. It’s mine, written weeks earlier, perhaps even months, fading into the cache of doodles and love notes taking over every seat back on the chiva. Just my name, a heart, and ’12.

I walked into casa llena after the particularly taxing city-to-town journey at 2:45 PM, close to three hours after I left Hispania, mentally and physically exhausted, to my dear friend Kelly listening to music at the kitchen table. A discussion of our house rooster, Alejandro, and his sad excuse for a crow somehow ensued. Where once we would only make fun of the poor immasculated creature, the conversation turned quite sentimental, with Kelly saying she was going to miss that pathetic cock-a-doodle-doo more than anything. Regardless of all the mornings we’ve woken up to the call, the afternoons where we wondered why he even bothered, Alejandro’s personality was all his own. He was a part of what made casa llena so weirdly, uniquely, untouchably beautiful.

To me, our transportation experiences have done just the same. I would go through all the frustration, all the sweat, all the overpriced taxis, all the near death (or at least near hospital) experiences, all the chiva drivers paid entirely in dimes and nickels, all the embarrassing gringo faux pas, all the uncomfortable stares, all the waiting, all over again if I had to. I’d do it for the woman in the blue eyeliner, falling asleep in her plastic seat, coming from her 9-to-5 in the city to her cinder block home in the highlands. I’d do it for the gaggle of gossiping fifteen-year-old girls, blissfully unaware of any sneer I might give to their exuberant laughter. I’d do it for the quiet elderly man, salt-and-pepper hair combed neatly across his head, taking the ride like he has four hundred times before, his eyes closed and his mind wandering. I’d do it for every single intern, for every single horror story we’ve shared back at the house over neon plastic cups of Abuelo and one powdery mix or another.

And so, at the end of it all, I think I’ll keep my Metrocard, if only to remind me that there is really, really nothing like Panama.

When I first came to Panama, I was afraid. Saying goodbye to my family, friends, and the state I’d lived in my entire life was nothing short of terrifying. But after a summer here, things are just the opposite. Now, I’m scared to leave. I’m scared of not waking up to Alejandro’s loud crowing or falling asleep in my corner surrounded by Elly, Lea and the Jamies. I’m afraid of what mornings will be like without ‘Buenas’ and smiles from Sophia and Sonia as we head to breakfast, or a laugh from Sweetie as I buy galletas before noon. I don’t remember what life is like without an Aura to greet right after sunrise and a Noris to talk to over yuca frita. I don’t know how I’m going to leave all my fútbol niños behind- I’m afraid to miss when Ashley’s next tooth falls out or to experience a Tuesday or Thursday afternoon without Abraham and Vladimir’s giggling. At the end of all of this I am afraid to go home because I am blessed enough to have found another one. One in a town where warmth comes not from temperature but the easy drift of friendliness between neighbors. Where simplicity and happiness is the ultimate goal. Where care for one another takes precedent, where help is always offered, and where nothing is taken for granted. A place where “time is money” is not a known phrase, and instead taking things slowly and enjoying your time on this earth is the standard. And Casa Llena- a house where cooperation and being considerate started as a necessity and turned into second nature. Where I am lucky enough to live with people who have the same wants for the world and ideas for the future. A home where I am surrounded by people who find something they are passionate about and put everything they have into making things happen.

The saying goes, “dreams and dedication are a powerful combination”. Add love to that equation, and the result is the most wonderful 10 weeks of my life.

Thank you to Kalu Yala, to San Miguel, and to everyone who made this summer the best. I love you all.

Finalities sneak up on you. More often than not, you don’t realize a moment is the last of its kind until it’s gone. The last party hike, the last splash in the Rio, the last clink of glasses amongst your peers, your familia de el verano, as you all bring your jungle drinks together and toast your last toast.

The jungle is as bitter as it is sweet. There are the picturesque days when the sapphire skies overlap each mountain peak with a casual brilliance – the warm, carefree days that find us bounding happily between rocks, grabbing at the tropical enigmas growing and crawling from every ravine. But there are also days that test your spirit. These are the days when the glory of the soil defies you, when the elements reign merciless and seep into you through every permitting crevasse. Have you ever truly understood the luxury of having dry feet? Dry anything? Or felt the memorable burn down the backs of your legs as you scale “Suicide Hill” beneath the unforgiving sun? These are moments when the splendor of the land works as much against your spirit as it does for it. These are the moments when your team becomes essential.

This week I write about camaraderie. The levels of social solidarity achieved in the depths of the rainforest are not easily matched. After surpassing so many crucial moments with the same people standing by my side, it’s no surprise that I find myself yearning to pull each one of them back for Round 2. It’s no surprise that I’ve come to reevaluate what camaraderie truly is.

It’s the kind of inside, continuous jokes that rock your ribcage – the kind of jokes you only have to glance at one another to understand. It’s being able to sit in silence, perfect silence, and simply enjoy the moment before it flees. It’s talking about poop – that’s right, poop– because you don’t really know someone until you’ve heard about at least one bowel movement. It’s the way that even the bad experiences– the frustrating, painful experiences– can be made good just by the twist you’re able to put on them. It’s the filthy jokes you don’t mind telling because everyone knows you’re not really a baby-killer. It’s pushing each other to our limits, our collective refusal to see anyone give up. It’s the end of the night, when the iPod dies and the stars are out and everyone brushes their teeth in the dark, listening to the choir of Nintendo frogs (“Pew! Pew!”)

Waves of reverence for you, my Valley teammates. This summer has been electrifying and humbling. Whether the moment in question found us trekking up hills, swimming against the current, dancing in the rain, or simply sardine-packed into a graffiti scrawled city bus, every step I’ve taken has been enhanced by its proximity to yours. I’ve decided to stay here in Panama, and I’m beyond thrilled to continue working with Kalu Yala. Still, I know I will be unable to forget any of you, my primary team, my jungle jovens.

Before making my way down to Panama I happened upon a musician, Rubén Blades, an icon of Panama and Latin America as a renowned salsa singer, songwriter, politician, and activist. Blades changed salsa to a “thinking persons'” dance music using the influences of South American nueva canción and Cuban nueva trova. Impressively he ran for presidency in 1994 winning 20% of the vote and later in 2004 became minister of tourism.

His “thinking persons'” music is legendary in the song “Buscando America”. It speaks of the plight of poor immigrants going to America in the 80s to find the golden dream of freedom and prosperity but discovering below minimum wages and prejudice holding them back from grasping a better life.

Buscando America Rubén Blades

That false image of America also seemed to live here as I walked the streets and took buses through Panama City and outlying towns. The empty, corrupt skyscrapers crowding the skyline, luxury billboards next to slums, and the monotonous cargo ships off in the distance filling the canal day in and day out. All of these aspects of wealth are not apparent with the regular people here. Where do all of the millions of dollars go from the canal and with so much poverty who can afford an apartment with an ocean view? Finally all of that avid listening of Blades lyrics hit me straight in the face as the hypocrisy spun around me.

Even though there is hypocrisy living everywhere, I found Panamanians like Ramon, Jorge, and the other campesinos who create an image of Panama that cannot be matched. They inspired all of us to question our culture and the mainstream Panamanian culture by showing us a different way of thinking and way of life. The Panamanians I met here will be the first aspect to come to my mind, not the problems.

Focusing on the problems blinds a person from the people and odd tidbits that I have come to hold close and now I do not want to let go of. Without that initial struggle and frustration I would never have progressed or learned to search for the abundant beauty within Panama. Thanks to these wonderful people I know that I can only truly judge a country by the interactions with its people.

Here are a few other songs by Blades:

Rubén Blades Plantación Adentro

Another artist to discover: Willie Colón

Willie Colón El Dia De Mi Suerte

In San Miguel, much of the community’s lives revolve around the Pacora River. Turning on a faucet means getting water directly from the river.  After a heavy rain, which occurs often, the water can turn off for a day or even up to ten days. Then, most of the community collects their water directly from the Pacora River in buckets or water bottles. Maintaining a clean, trash-free river is essential to keeping the community healthy and happy. Holding a Rio Clean Up event creates a stronger community, promotes a healthy environment, and challenges people to think twice before dumping trash near or around the river. As we found out, it also can create the greatest day we have had with the San Miguel kids-ever!

While our first Rio Clean up was successful, there were definitely areas where improvement was necessary.  Because promotion happened on a much smaller scale, the first clean up involved a little bit of hustling on the day of the even by getting children who we saw around the community encouraging them as best we could to participate. The kids had fun, but there was little motivation to continue cleaning up after a certain point. So Heather and I decided that the next Rio Clean Up needed to be bigger, better, which obviously meant including candy, stickers, and free food.

Planning events in rural Panama is unlike regular event planning. There are no formal invitations or RSVP’S or any real way to predict the number of attendees.  Promotion is key. So the first thing we had to do was make a huge, bright sign to help promote our second Rio Clean Up.  I decided the best way to create a sign was by upcycling an old aquarium lining (an underwater scene-perfect!), meaning we didn’t have to use anything to buy the sign and were able to recycle what had pretty much become trash on the side of the yard-sustainable and time efficient! But the sign was only the first step for promoting the Rio Clean Up. Up to four days before the Rio Clean Up, a couple of other interns and myself set out for the town with a bag of candy and stickers, becoming magnets for the kids of San Miguel. While passing out the candy and stickers, we let them know the specifics of the event and told them to tell their friends. And Oh! The word was passed around quickly.

Between getting shirts, prizes, and food, prepping took a couple of days.  Heather decided that we should make shirts for the interns who were working the event (Heather, Jamie, Lillian, Julie, and I), and for the first ten kids who showed up. We made shirts out of tape and spray paint. It was simple, quick, looked awesome, and wearing the shirts around was a great way to promote even more on the day of the event. As far as food goes, without knowing exactly how many kids or adults would show up, we decided that the best way to do breakfast was make breakfast burritos with potatoes. We got about 80 eggs, 60 tortillas, 4 blocks of cheese, 25 potatoes, and a ton of fresh tomatoes, onions, and cilantro for Lillian (community outreach director) to make her famous pico de gallo in mass amounts.

After planning for over a week, the event finally happened! We met at the concha, with our I <3 El Rio shirts, smiles, candy, gloves, and trash bags. We initially got about 15 kids to show up on time and 2 men who got in the deep crevices under the bridge (awesome!). As the kids started cleaning up with the rest of the group, Lillian and I went home to start breakfast. As soon as we started, the clean up group had about doubled, and we had about 30 kids show up. It turned out to be a lot like a birthday party for the river, and what kid doesn’t like a good birthday party?  We decorated our yard with balloons and fun colorful signs, set up a huge bowl of candy, endless amount of juice and water, and of course, breakfast burritos. The kids were having a blast, stuffing their pockets with our 5 pound bag of candy, and trying to win prizes by getting the most amount of trash. The day could not have gone more perfectly! After everyone reconvened at our house, filled up on breakfast burritos and pounds of pico de gallo, we passed out awesome prizes (water guns, pens, balloons, silly puddy, water Frisbees) and took a couple of group pictures. And then came the real fun. One of the boys, Ruben, said “Now that the river is clean and beautiful, let’s go swim in it!”. It only took one person to scream “VAMOS AL RIO!” and we were all off running to jump in the river, where we got endlessly splashed, had kids hanging on our shoulders like monkeys, jumped off rocks, and were tortured (in the most friendly way) with water guns.

The day could not have gone better. By improving the promotion of River Clean Up better, and offering incentives to pick up trash, the river and San Miguel in general looked beautiful after. We were able to fill about 25 bags of trash, while having a blast at the same time, interns and kids alike.  Working harder on this Rio Clean Up meant a cleaner Rio Pacora and also meant selling to the kids of San Miguel that taking care of the environment is fun and has a tremendous payoff. Incredible!

Life can wear on all of us.

We all begin new, fresh, with smooth skin and clear hearts. We watch the world with open eyes and open minds. We grow, we gain. Love. Learn. Live. And then somewhere at some point we sustain our first wounds. Our first breaks. Our first scars. Seasons change, the sun sets on countless days. Hearts splinter, eyes rust from tears, foundations crack from broken trust, beams rot after abandon, the weight of the world bends our frames. The walls that protect our hearts and our homes can grow weak. Structures are discarded, destined to disintegrate from disuse and disregard—until someone comes along and recognizes that we are not entirely useless. There is a lot to clear out: pieces beyond repair, wounds too deep, parts unusable. But they tease out the scar tissues, smash out the infested, burn the bad, level you to the ground, and suddenly you are salvaged. The tearing down, the hammers to your roof, the saws to your sides, it all hurt like hell. But saved boards mix with well-built posts, new rafters with old zinc tiles, strong bones covered with fresh flesh. Straighter nails, better construction, sturdier structure.

The tearing down is never easy, nor is the rebuilding. But in the end we suffer the bruises, the blisters, the blood, because the home for the heart is more beautiful than before. And we are all better for it.

*A huge thank you to the entire Valley crew for hosting us Anthro kids for the week. Even more thanks to Kylie and the Animal Science girls for letting me get my hands dirty on such a wonderful project as the shed, and for reminding me of how capable we all are to do so much good when we put our minds and muscles to it.*

The time has finally come. I can’t believe how quickly this time has passed (sound familiar? I just can’t wrap my head around it!). July 17^th was the first day of our last stint in the valley. I left you last time talking about the demolition of the old shed in the orchard to build a new one for the horses that will soon call the valley their home. I mentioned that we were going to have about 40 milled pieces of lumber to carry around to crank out our last and final project.

Unfortunately, there were a few hiccups along the way and the project was not able to be completely finished, but the main beams are in the ground (which was a very difficult task in itself because first the old beams had to be removed…they were about 2ft in the ground seated in cement), we have the main part of the roof frame done, and the rest of the design is going to be very easy to follow for whomever decides to pick up the project next semester.  I will warn that future person though; this is probably some of the hardest, heaviest wood you will ever encounter. It took 3 of us to carry one 3×3, 13ft beam and that same beam took two men, hammering, and bending 4 nails, and then the decision to countersink all of the next nails, before that one single beam would go into place.

Soon after that, just when things were picking up pace, the drill died. No more countersinking the nails. Kylie scoured old basecamp and came back with steel nails that were meant for nailing through CONCRETE! Those wound up working, but we only have 15 of them, so we have been using them very carefully! Some of the valley crew is going back out there this coming Tuesday to do one last clean sweep to get everything out of the valley until next time. I’m not sure if maybe we will take a half day and get some more boards up on the roof or not, but if not, I am very proud of what we have accomplished.

When work wasn’t being done this last time out in the valley, I made sure to make good use of it. The majority of it was spent with Team Ramrod, sitting up on the cabana, laughing until dinner was served. On Saturday the 21^st and Sunday the 22^nd, Sam and I laid out on the beach just down from the swimming hole for a little while in the morning. The sun was a ’blazing by noon and retreating into the water wasn’t even keeping us cool! Don’t worry mom, I had sunscreen on!

I got the beginnings of a rainwater collection system done to one day be put on the completed shed in order to be a source of water for the horses. It’s nothing too fancy; just a garbage can sawed in about half, so they can get their heads into it, rubber hose covering the edge so no one gets scraped up. Then there will be a gutter system off of the roof with a large funnel at one end connected to a piece of hose directing the water into the water-can.

If this little system had been up on Tuesday, 7/24, the can would have been overflowing! We had the most incredible rainstorm that I had ever seen.  Sam and I sat hunkered down in our tent as water sprayed in through the rainfly. There was nearly a small river UNDER our tent, so the floor felt like a waterbed (thank goodness that part didn’t leak). I happened to look outside to check on our shoes just in time to see my flip-flops being carried away, so I ran out to grab those, and then we waited…and waited… for this monsoon to pass. While we were waiting, wondering if it would ever stop, we entered ‘survival mode,’ and decided it would be okay to eat our peanut m&m’s(at about 6:30am!).

Wednesday was a normal work day but plans changed at the end of the day and a group of us hiked out that night instead of Thursday morning. This impromptu change in plans probably was a blessing in disguise. I tend to be very sentimental and really hate goodbyes, and this quick exit kept me on my toes. We still are going back in to clean that last day, so we’ll see how I do leaving one more time. There were 2 last mandatory volleyball games to be played and then we hit the road.

A few interns have already boarded planes to head for home. Michael, one of the members of Team Ramrod, had his family come visit this weekend and will be heading back home in a few days…the time for goodbyes is quickly approaching. There have already been plans in the works for perhaps a trip to a football game in Alabama or a visit to Texas, so I have no doubt that I will remain close with these new friends I have made here. Instead of ‘goodbyes,’ these should be ‘see you laters.’

I’m so grateful for being able to come here and experience and learn all of the things that I have, about myself, about others, and about a new way of living. I have made memories that I won’t soon forget and friends that will (hopefully) last a lifetime.

My time in the valley is officially over and of course it’s bittersweet.  The place that I loathed so much the first few days I lived here has become a place where many memories have been made.  I’m going to miss waking up to the gorgeous sunrise behind the mountains and the crystal clear water of the Pacora River.  I’ll miss falling asleep to the “pew” frogs and brushing my teeth under the stars.  Of course one of the things I’ll miss the most is Largo’s amazing food and fresh coffee every morning.  You got me to eat my vegetables Largo, good work!

I’ll also be missing the interns I’ve come to know and love.

Jill:  I’ll miss your positive attitude, gardening hat, and floral arrangements.

Alice:  Your howling and hearing, “what about my needs?” every other day.

Sarah:  Your kind heart.

Ryan:  The fact that you’re always humming no matter what it is that you’re doing.

Will, Briggs, and Mallory:  Your selflessness.  You guys are always willing to share your things and get others whatever they need.

Hattie:  Your ambition to get work done.

Toma:  Your chill attitude and mad volleyball skills.

Austin:  I hate to admit it but I’ll miss your alter-egos (especially Jennifer) that I have a love/hate relationship with.  I’ll also be missing our bathroom talks.  Who else am I going to talk to about those things?

Aaron:  Your great personality and love for the creatures you study.  Keep it up!

Michael:  Your humor, endless supply of movie quotes and creepy mustache (sorry, I still don’t like it ha ha).

Jordan:  Your patience with everyone but mostly when it comes to me being particular about everything.

Last but not least to one of my best friends, Kelsey.  Thank you for putting up with me.  I’m so happy we were tent mates and ours was the last one standing!  I’m glad we formed Team Ramrodwith Jordan, Mike, Austin and Aaron.  I appreciate everything you’ve done for me not only this summer, but throughout the years that we’ve been friends.  Oh, and that you don’t judge me when we get to the city and I eat entire containers of cappuccino cookies as well.  Most of all Kelsey, I’m going to miss our late night heart to hearts and seeing and working with you every day.

It’s been a pleasure living and working with each and every one of you guys.  You’ve helped me learn a great deal about myself and I’m grateful to have met you.  Keep it real and do you.

Love,

Rambo Sambo

After weeks of mental and physical preparation, plus hours of anthropological experience in San Miguel, with snacks, sunscreen and agua in tow, the Kalu Yala Summer 2012 Anthropology team set out to spend several days studying in valley intern turf, Tres Brazos. The brainchild of Anthropology director Evan Conaway, each intern came up with an individual study to focus on for our stay. After spending a month and a half doing medical research in San Miguel, I decided to continue the investigation and figure out what kind of health care may or may not be going on down in the valley.

Unsurprisingly, we were all in for a totally different kind of roller coaster. The lizards of San Miguel are nothing compared to the dinosaur babies of the valley; our housecat, Tuna, has about the ferocity of a goldfish next to their half arachnid, half crustacean mascot, appropriately named The Admiral. The cold showers of casa llena? At least it’s cleaner than the river. No wonder bathing gets kind of old.

After three hours among the brave, I felt like I’d gathered everything I needed to write a solid dissertation on the ways of the wild. The overarching attitude of the valley was relaxed all around: “As long as I’m not doing real damage to it, it’s okay, but it’s probably not very good for it,” said one intern to me when I asked about how he took care of his injuries. Essentially, what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger. Hey, whatever works.

At the conclusion of our adventure, Evan had us write up our field notes in anticipation of the book he’s creating about our time there. To give you a little taste of what’s to come (think conflict resolution and kinship studies: it’s cool stuff), for this blog, I’ll share some of my research.

Alice

Known around the camp as the hardest working intern, Alice in particular was incredibly cavalier when it came to medical needs. Covered in blisters and bruises, it was easy to ask her questions about her time in Tres Brazos. When I asked her what would happen if someone got bit or fell and twisted something out on their own, she said, “You either hop back or wait for help,” as though there really could be any other options, anyway.

At one point, Tucker noticed a nasty scratch-turned-blister-turned-infection on her right hand that she keeps re-opening through work. He wanted to clean it at least with hydrogen peroxide, saying it would naturally push out the dirt after the rinse, but Alice says, “I’d rather it just be out.” So Tucker picks out the dirt with a pocket knife while Alice chews on her finger.

Alice was my first subject, and after spending time with her, I concluded the attitude to be a mix of apathy and frustration: “If I work on my injury, I’ll get stronger, and it’ll go away.” This was absolutely reinforced by the other interns I spoke to at camp.

General Comments Pretty much everyone is barefoot, no question there. I’ve only seen one pair of gloves, worn and owned by Mal. Someone (maybe Aaron?) makes a comment about blisters: “I don’t cover them so they turn into calluses.” Asking people about any natural cleansers? Nada. “Sam has aloe,” said Aaron, when I asked him if he ever put anything on his cuts. I thought perhaps he meant she had an aloe plant or at least knew where one was, but no, it was only the store bought kind. The only other ‘remedy’ I saw was Toma’s organic salve. No one knew if any of the ingredients (among them: jojoba, tea tree oil, lavender, etc.) could be found here, so they were sharing the stuff super sparingly, as though it was their only option.

When Aaron and Austin were going through their preserved bug collection, I asked about the frequency of poisonous bugs. Again, of course, the attitude was lax. This caterpillar’s spikes are venomous, that ant bite feels like a bullet wound. And what do you do if chance should happen? “Wait it out,” said Aaron. “Most of them aren’t poisonous enough to kill you.” This attitude made me increasingly more glad I lived near a clinic, regardless of the wait time.

Conclusion

If I could do the whole thing over again, I would love to be more involved in the beginnings of the process. Watching how the interns got to their apathetic attitude would have been fascinating; I would have loved to see who initially encouraged the behavior, who said hydrogen peroxide was the best option, who was the first person to say ‘screw it.’ I would have loved to witness a major sting or bite. I think asking people about pre-existing conditions would have lead to more insight into their medical world, albeit intrusive, perhaps. More than anything, I wish everyone could have been there at once. Regardless of the stress, watching people interact makes the experience. More people around means more talk and probably more accidents to be around for. Beyond that, I just would’ve liked to observe such animals in their natural habitat.

The Rio Clean Up, or la Limpieza del Rio, last Sunday was by far the most rewarding experience of the summer. It started with Lillian and most of the Community Outreach interns organizing to plan out the essentials. Lea and I had already finished a huge sign announcing the date and time of the Clean Up, and we posted smaller signs around town as well. Even though San Miguel is a very small town, I learned a lot about promoting events and the time and effort it takes not only to create information but to spread it by word of mouth. Heather, who is a master planner, came up with ideas for games, a raffle with prizes, food ideas, t-shirt designs, and a playlist.

We optimistically bought food in Veinte Cuatro for around 40 people, and took a taxi back in the rain, with a driver who tried to hit every chicken in the road. We came home to an apocalypse- all of the chickens had gotten out of the pen and had been sitting or sleeping on the table, ensuring it was completely covered in poop. As I rounded up the chickens, who are faster than they look, Lea braved the porch and scrubbed the table, chairs, and floor and sprayed everything with the hose. The balloons and signs we hung up made the outside area very festive, and hanging the Panamanian flag from the balcony gave it just the touch it needed.

Sunday morning we donned our Rio t-shirts and ate a good breakfast at the fonda in preparation for the work ahead. We divided jobs so that Lea and Lilly were making food (Lilly’s fresh pico de gallo) and Julie and I were in charge of the kids. We met at the concha at 9am, and gave away 5 t-shirts to the first kids there, and they were extra excited when we pulled out a bag of candy.

Many Panamanians throw out trash onto the street as a part of daily life, and the Rio Pacora that is next to our house is no exception. It is not that the majority of people are not concerned with the state of the environment, but the few weho aren’t can ruin it for everyone. Before we started collecting trash, every Sunday out of towners would come to San Miguel and leave mounds of trash in their wake- beer bottles, food boxes, wrappers, and other random things they decided just to dump. Although thier “Sunday Funday” is a tradition they are most likely going to continue, hopefully they will begin to realize the effect their waste has not only on the surrounding environment, but the lives of those of us living next to the river, who use it as the main source of water to sustain our health.

I went with a group of interns with our cook Noris to dig up yucca on her farmland above her house, and it gave me another chance to see more closely where their water sources are. On the trail next to the river a little ways past Noris’ “casita,” we saw the PVC piping that travels through the river to separate houses along her side of the stream. The source is close to the gate she enters to go to her farm, and other farmers and families live close by. Even though the beginning spring is not in a very concentrated area of town, it nonetheless is polluted by trash, animal waste, and fertilizers. Noris is well aware of the contamination issues associated with her water. She showed us the large cement tank that used to be the main source for some people in town, but now sits idly in the river, covered with moss and other plants.

Even more recently at Adult Class, an older woman who comes to class regularly asked if she could have our empty Gatorade bottles and use them for water collection, as the Agua Cero had caused her family not to have water for 8 days. Agua Ceros, the huge tropical storms that occur regularly throughout the Panamanian winter, make aspects of life harder aside from the fact that they are a great source of natural irrigation for agriculture. The river becomes thick with mud that has eroded, roads become impossible to drive, and water becomes undrinkable.

As many of us found out the hard way, our water from our kitchen sink needs to be boiled before we can drink it. The water pressure is likely to go out at least once a week, but at least we are fortunate enough to have the means to buy gallons of filtered water for everyday consumption. Yes, this poses the problem of more trash accumulation and waste from plastic that the city doesn’t recycle, but the largest just that we have been regularly using can be refilled and reused as many times as possible. We are also fortunate to have Emily on our team, who studied water filtration systems as part of her Master’s program, and has started a water collection system for the school librarian, Miriam.

The Rio Clean Up was the perfect opportunity to see how the kids viewed their natural surroundings. Whether they were just excited for lunch, candy, and prizes or actually wanted to beautify their personal areas, they worked hard all morning filling bags of trash, taking breaks in between to jump in the river. After we nearly ran out of bags and gloves and were sufficiently sweaty, we met back at the house to eat. Everyone (the kids, the two men that helped and ourselves) were very impressed by the breakfast burritos and juice, and went crazy for the prizes we gave out to the children for # of bags collected and participation.

SInce the day wasn’t getting any cooler, we went with the kids to the river and swam for at least an hour. They loves their prizes, which included a giant water gun and frisbee sponges. Launching themselves off of rocks and pretending to be sharks, the day wasn’t complete until we coerced everyone into a group photo. I really hope they got as much, if not more out of it that we did, but either way the Rio Clean Up is something they will remember and hopefully continue in the future, creating a sustainable tradition that can be immensely fun.

Georgia Byng is right. There is no time like the present. It took me going to Panama to realize that you have to live fully in the moment or you lose time. To twenty-somethings, it seems like we have a lot of time left. Hopefully, we do. However, its not the time we have but how we use it. In Panama you never know where the day will bring you, but that is what makes it so fun.  Looking back at the lists I made at the beginning of the summer, I realize that I have achieved many goals and objectives, but still have a few important projects to fulfill. At our “one month left” meeting on the 9th, Lillian (Community Outreach director) reminded us that we have to stay strong in these last couple of weeks, and finish out our ideas instead of leaving loose ends behind. Heather initiated the chalkboard paint wall (which is incredibly awesome) and Lea and Lillian bought some chicken wire, which we have been making into a fence for the garden. Jamie, along with the Animal Science girls, put on a successful “Arbol de la Vida” in the concha, and I officially started my “Who’s Who of San Miguel,” a book idea that started during orientation when Victor Ansley described people Kalu Yala knows in and around town.

On the 10th of July, Kate Stice came to San Miguel to shadow us for a day, which provided a great opportunity to show her some of the projects we are working on. She saw the school and got to help Emily in the 5th and 6th grade class. Since it was a Tuesday, she also was able to come to soccer practice, where she met the school librarian Miriam, and adult class, where she was introduced to our regulars, Catia and Martina. Although it was a full day, it was the perfect chance to meet important community members and see what we do during the week. After celebrating Conleigh’s birthday throughout the weekend, I realized that we have become increasingly close to one another. Not only is our cook Noris our “mother” and Anthropology director Evan our “papa,” but everyone is at the point where we can make fun of each other’s quirks. We also have quite a few quotes down pat, such as “patacones for days” and “snacks on snacks.” The most unique thing I did last week was watch Noris’ pig be slaughtered. Ellie, Kelly, Jamie, Don and I got up at 5:4am, but ended up waiting for the “matador,” or butcher, until 7:30am. While we waited,we had a lovely surprise, when Noris made us a big breakfast complete with coffee. Her family started showing up throughout the morning and it was great to get to know her daughters, son, husband, brother, sister in law, nephew, and uncle. I never thought that I would witness a pig being killed firsthand, first thing in the morning, but it was an experience I will never forget.

Later that day, we held a Rio Clean Up, which is going to be a precursor to the real Rio Clean Up on the 22nd. We didn’t realize that many of the people in town are Seventh Day Adventist, which means that Saturday is their day of rest, so even though they really wanted to help us, they couldn’t. Once kids in town saw what we were doing they grabbed bags and gloves and made a huge dent in the amount of trash next to the river and on a path downtown. Since some of the girls are leaving a couple days early, the last 3 weeks are going to fly by. It is going to be a sad day when we have to say goodbye, but at least we can make the most out of the last 21 days and collaborate on more creative projects.

This past week I have been reading “Food not Lawns” by H.C. Flores. The book quotes another author, Tom Robbins, who describes water as “the ace of elements” which he illustrates as, “Always in motion, ever-flowing (…), rhythmic, dynamic, ubiquitous, changing and working its changes…”. With only a month left of our internship, we now understand that in order to gain as much momentum as the beloved Pacora River, we need to act like water. The most efficient way to do this is through collaborative efforts.

This past weekend, the interns at San Miguel scheduled a river clean up day. After arriving at our meeting spot at the Concha, a man approached us and told us that for most people, Saturday is not a good day to arrange a clean up because a lot of the community are 7^th Day Adventists and for them, Saturday is a day of rest. Initially, myself and the other Kalu Yala interns were a bit discouraged at the thought that we would be cleaning the river ourselves. A major goal of the river clean up is to involve residents of San Miguel in order to create a fun and interactive day that promotes sustainability.  However, after cleaning a bit of the river up ourselves, more and more children started coming out of the woodwork. The power of a group effort was obvious. The children’s enthusiasm encouraged us to work for longer, smile more, and collect more trash. Collaboration at its finest.

A major component of collaboration is communication. Although we sometimes struggle with communicating with members of the town, it is important that we are deeply in touch with helpful and beloved friends of Casa Llena- Aura, Noris, Jorge, and fellow interns. Aura is the keeper of the house, but also bears important insider information regarding rural life. Aura has a keen eye for the natural world, and has taught myself and the community outreach director, Lillian, how to grow tropical plants such as avocado and pineapple the way the locals do. She also recently let us know that our 6 am alarm, Alejandro the Rooster, is sick. Aura told us where to go to get medicine for Alejandro and what the name of the medicine was.  When house issues arise, Noris will let us know who to call when our air conditioning or refrigerator breaks and when and how to harvest Yucca. And Jorge is an all-around handy man. When there is an issue around the house, the first person we go to is Jorge. The refrigerator is broken? Walk over to Jorge’s! Need a tool? Jorge’s! Guaranteed he has a solution or knows someone with the answer to our problem. And then there’s important issue of figuring out who has fed the animals to make sure all of them were fed once throughout the day-, not more (no matter how many sad eyes you get), not less.  Communication at its finest.

And then there is the more stimulating collaboration. Although not vital for improving day-to-day efficiency, creative collaboration certainly boosts the morale. Constant creative collaboration occurs between the interns- in gardening, house projects (like our newly painted chalkboard wall), and in interpersonal artistic collaborations, like the ones mentioned in Heather’s blog on creativity.

The way Tom Robbins describes is how the interns strive to be. Collaboration helps us work more effectively when interacting with the community, planning events, and starting creative projects,.  Just as the natural world is perfectly orchestrated, Kalu Yala reaches effortless harmonization by acting as water does- “ever-flowing, rhythmic, and dynamic”.

Sit back and enjoy as I take you on a tour of the culinary delights Panama has to offer.  Of course there are restaurants in Panama City with all types of ethnic food: Mexican, Chinese, Mediterranean, Brazilian, Greek, and others but I am going to describe 3 delicious meals that the locals enjoy.

For breakfast we eat hojadres and huevos fritos.  Hojadres are fried bread about the size of a pancake that go nicely with fried eggs and coffee or soda or Gatorade.   The breakfast fonda in downtown San Miguel is the place to hang out with the locals and score the best hojadres in town.  No offense to anyone else who makes this dish, sorry Noris, Aura, and Miriam, but the breakfast fonda hojadres are my favorite.

The fonda is literally situated in the fork in the road where you can continue along the Pacora River past our yellow house on the left until it dead ends less than a mile ahead or veer left to go up the hill and over the mountain to La Chapa.

We have a cook for our meal plan here at Casa Llena named Noris.  She likes to make hojadres and huevos fritos for dinner, desayuno por cena or breakfast for dinner.

She also makes tasty fried chicken with rice, beans, and salad, pollo frito con comida y ensalada.  In Spanish the word comida translates to food but in Panama the word means a side of rice and beans with whatever meat you order. The salad is usually a mixture of cucumbers and tomatoes in a light vinegar dressing, nothing like traditional American salads.

My favorite dish that Noris makes is pollo guisado, or stewed chicken in red sauce.  It is so good you can just drink the sauce, pour it over rice, or better yet dip bread into it.

I recently visited San Mblas with a group of fellow interns in northeast Panama. We ate the freshest seafood.  Lunch was local fish and yellow rice and dinner was lobster and giant crab from the Mar Caribe. The first morning, we went swimming and a fisherman came by in his long wooden canoe filled with lobster, fish, crab, and another creature that looked like a hybrid between a crab and lobster. Never seen anything like that before. No photos of his catch but here is a picture of the lobster I had for dinner that night.

During the last stint, Aaron Prairie, I, and two more companions got it together and made the hike to find the source of the Iguana river tributary from which we will draw water for the future settlement in Kalu Yala. There were all kinds of wild theories about the stream’s origin and the time it would take to find it and the four of us left prepared for a three day ordeal to find a mysterious spring in the depths of the jungle. In reality it only took about six hours to find what can be called the source.

Like in most things, the most obvious solution is usually correct. As we hiked up our aqua-road, we noticed how the tributary’s flow was continually thinning. As the tributary flows down the side of a mountain, it is fed all along the way by trickles of groundwater. At several places, the flow disappears into the rock and sediment and reappears further upstream. Each vein of the tributary we followed ended in the same way: the flow disappears into the ground from which it trickles like water leaking out of a giant sponge. After about six hours we reached the top of the ridgeline and were surprised to find familiar territory that Aaron and I had explored during a previous stint. Our primary goal was certainly a success, we followed the tributary till there was nothing left, and took a good survey of the surrounding lands which feed it. This area is very dense rainforest, there are no cattle pastures for at least a mile in every direction. By all appearances, the water is safe to drink.

After reaching the top of the ridgeline, we still had a lot of time and energy left. So we made the decision to keep exploring more of the ridgeline till nightfall. We found a trail that follows the ridgeline all the way into Chagres National Park. Along the way we found a farmhouse and clearings in the trees that revealed some stunning views. The whole trail, from tributary, to Chagres would be an ideal trek on which to bring some adventurous tourists.

We pitched our tent underneath a shack we found on the roadside for the night. In the morning I was greeted by a friendly spider monkey screaming at me. Because our water supply was running very low, we made the decision to turn back to the farm house at the border of the national park. Unfortunately, there was nobody home, but, because we were desperate we took some water from the unwittingly generous farmer’s rain catchment. At this point, our company parted ways. Aaron and I wished to continue exploring the land while our two companions were ready to head back to camp. After they left, we went to the land behind the farmhouse to take care of some natural business. Unfortunately, it was at this time when the farmer returned on his horse with his dogs and rifle in hand. Thinking he had still not seen us, we grabbed our packs and ran through the dense growth behind the farmer’s land into a valley where we were sure to find another tributary that would lead us to the Iguana River and back to camp. We reached the tributary and fortunately avoided any unpleasant contact with Farmer John. This tributary was another exciting spectacle itself; we either passed or climbed down waterfalls of about six meters in height every few hundred meters. There was dense growth and very intriguing shapes made by fallen wood. After reaching the Iguana we followed it back to camp bringing with us exotic insect specimens, a good knowledge of the land, and stories from our epic adventure.

The rest of the stint I spent nursing my torn feet, pinning insect specimens, and cleaning up camp. I can’t wait for the adventures our last stint will hold!

The Animal Science interns and our director were graciously welcomed by Amita and her niece and nephew to learn how to make queso blanco, the simple white cheese. Amita our neighbor in San Miguel makes about thirty to forty blocks of queso blanco every morning to sell at the local chino, general store.

Step #1: Remove el suero or “whey” from the buckets of milk that is filled with separated curds and way. Use a strainer laid over another bucket to catch any stray curds we can use for the end product. Stick your hand into the bucket and mix around the curds so el suero can rise. El suero can be dumped into another bucket periodically or tossed. Amita gives it to her pigs.

Step #2: Once all of el suero removed from the buckets, the curds must be squished into baseball sized balls and placed into a big mixing bowl or bucket, as seen below.

A video of us removing el suero and wringing out the curds. Plus a sneak of Amita’s house.

Step #3: Amita took the balls of queso blanco, shoving them into the top of the grinder and cranking the handle with her other hand. The grinder she uses can be bought at the chino in San Miguel for $27. Sweet price.

Step #4: After half the balls were grinded she added the salt. Add to taste. Remember she adds for about 20 in this batch.

Step #5: Take the grinded and salted queso blanco and push them into a square shape. Amita has a wooden frame her husband made. It looks easy enough to make with a little jungle scrap.

When all of the squares a shaped wrap the queso squares in banana leaves if possible. Most people don’t have access to a machete or a banana tree so, plastic will do.

Notice To The Valley:

QUESO BLANCO ESTÁ LLEGANDO!

Over the past few weeks, I have helped with a few minor but beneficial projects to make Basecamp feel more like home for our community. Living in the jungle for over a week at a time makes the little luxuries we have much more appreciated. It just goes to show that sometimes it’s the little things that matter the most. Our Valley crew banded together and made our camp in the jungle feel like home. Here’s a few of the projects that I have helped to make happen:

The Rancho Ladder

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This simple, yet elegant ladder was designed and constructed by Toma and I. Before, we climbed up an unstable wooden sawhorse to get to the second floor of our Rancho. This was one of our first builds so it put our Valley ingenuity to the test. Not too shabby for a first go around. So far, it has held up great with no complaints or problems.

Water Filter Stand

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Our lifeline, the Blue Stone water filter, seemed to always be in the way. It was knocked over a few times, and was even repaired once. No one wants to be stuck out in the Valley without filtered water. We decided to make a more permanent stand that was out of the way of high traffic, but still easily accessible. It has been a success.

Rancho Floors/Trenches

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One of the best improvements thus far, and the rain is no match for us anymore. The high walls of the floors and the trench work keeps the water from pouring into the Rancho. The floors were built in three easy steps: collecting flat rocks of all sizes and placing them where the floor will go, filling in the gaps with mud and leveling it by packing it down, then finally topping it off with a bunch of sand to provide a better surface for your feet. This was an awesome community project that almost everyone had a part of.

This is just a small portion of what is going on in the Kalu Yala Valley. We have so many more projects already completed and many more in progress. My project for next stint is a shaded/sheltered bench at Lookout Point on top of the hill. It will be a great place to relax for a minute and watch the sunset. Stay tuned for more to come. Ciao!

While trying to explain to my mother what I’ve been doing the past month and where I’m staying and when I can make contact with her (along with assuring her of my safety and caution every couple hours) I’ve realized that, at least to her, Panama is and has been a dark, enigmatic void of scary jungles, poisonous water, and ever lurking danger. While this illustration may for her describe nearly everyplace out of her field of vision while her children are in question, it is the purpose of this entry dispel such mystery and provide a walkthrough of a typical day as a Kalu Yala intern.

Some quick things to know: I live in ‘The Valley’, which is our name for the huge amount of property the company Kalu Yala owns in Panama. The Valley and surrounding land are inhabited only by ourselves and the ‘campesinos’, Panamanian mountain men who own ranches or work for ranchers. It lies approximately two miles from the nearest town San Miguel, though that two miles takes nearly two hours to traverse due to the fact that the hike in is almost entirely uphill. The company also owns a large house in San Miguel, a small, rural town (though very beautiful), and the interns living there do a great deal of community outreach work and teach in the local school. Another two hours journey by bus will take you from San Miguel to Panama City and the company hostel, a big pink building rented out to people for revenue, the only place of the three with reliable internet access, and also the home of the business interns who do… actually, we’re not really sure what it is the business interns do. Anyway, we live in the Valley in stints of 10 days, from Tuesday until the Thursday of the next week, and the later half of Thursday through Monday are our days off to go wherever we please, whether it be between the Kalu Yala locations, the beach, or a huge variety of tourism destinations here in Panama.

In the Valley, my day begins sometime between 6:30 and 7 AM each morning to the sight of warm yellow sunlight rising above the tips of the lush green mountains which surround us. Once fully roused I forcibly remove myself from the cot in which I have been sleeping, climb down from the second story of the rancho that serves as my shelter from the elements (our broken tent isn’t quite up to the job, although I hear it’s holding together slightly better than one of the others currently in the process of developing its very own aquatic ecosystem), and await breakfast time. Until it arrives, however, I like to kick back in a hammock and enjoy a book or simply the view before me. Soon the chefs are up and cooking to the beat of whatever music they are playing (lately a fitting soundtrack of Eddy Vedder’s performances from the movie Into the Wild) and breakfast is served by about 8:30.

The official work day begins at 9, and then we are off working on various tasks according to our respective internship program. As an agriculture intern, I am often doing jobs like working on our gardens, fencing them, planting seeds, trees, and plants, clearing weeds, reading farming and agriculture textbooks, planning crop and plant placements, and other such tasks. There is a lot else going on as well: the bio team is forever on excursions observing and identifying plant and animal life and exploring the vast amount of company property (such as the summit they have dubbed Candy Mountain, which may or may not contain a candycane forest or chocolate river), animal science has been hard at work finishing their chicken coup complete with a screened run, a bathouse (no, not for us, jerk), and very soon a new horse stable, and outdoor recreation in conjunction with some business team representatives have been working on marking and cleaning up trails through the mountains with the intent to put together and market eco-tourism packages filled with such activities for those crazy enough to join us in the wilderness. Around 1 in the afternoon our work is interrupted by the manic cries of chief chef Largo announcing far and wide that lunch is served, and once our appetites are sated and co-chef Alex has given up trying to force third and fourth helpings on our plates like your grandmother does at every family gathering, it’s back to work.

Finally, the closing bell rings at 4, and after that our time is our own. We all gather underneath the rancho and the cabana to hang out and talk for a while, often times a volleyball game will form, and I usually find myself with my nose in a book or a pen in my hand, writing. I especially love it when the skies darken and a storm rolls over us to put me into a lazy, contented trance, which is fairly often in the rainy season. Every day a group goes down to the river to swim and bathe before dinner, although I soon learned that ‘clean’ is a relative term in the valley. Eventually a hot dinner is cooked up and served by mad geniuses Largo and Alex (who else but a mad genius thinks up deep fried pineapple or peanut butter apple pancakes?) and we eat by tiki-torch light amongst the company of friends. Finally, by about 10 in the evening, I ready myself for bed, climb up to the second story of the rancho, slide underneath a sleeping bag to shield myself from the cold winds of our lofty elevation, and drift off to sleep under the moonlit sky to the bright, sporadic flashes of fireflies and silent strikes of lightning far beyond the mountains which enclose us within our home, the Valley.

Day 54 – “Vacation Day”

Today I decided to take one of my five allotted vacation days and hike out of the valley a day early.  I soon regretted this decision as I was not even 10 minutes into the hike.  You see, the first 25 minutes hiking out of the valley consists of a river crossing, and a straight shot up the mountain.  This particular hill is known as “suicide hill” if that gives you any inkling as to how much fun the first 25 minutes are.  I was praying to God that I could make this hike out with it being the first time I’ve had to carry my heavy hiking bag.  After making it up the hill I was convinced that I was dying.  I was dripping with sweat and it seemed as though my entire body was about to quit on me.  I looked over to the dairy farm on my left and saw a couple of familiar faces.  One being Tomas, the construction worker who had given Kelsey and I a ride into the valley one morning early in the semester.  I gave them a wave hello and was continuing on my way when the dairy farmer asked me a question.  Now would have been a good time for me to know how to speak Spanish.  I tried my very best to understand what he was saying to me.  He reached into a cooler and I was assuming he was offering me some water.  Nope.  He pulled out a syringe and a vaccination bottle of some sort.  Any other non Spanish-speaking American would have probably freaked out and ran away at this point but I finally understood what this guy was saying to me.  He wanted me to help him vaccinate his cattle!  This was so exciting for me after spending a year working on a dairy farm back at school.  I felt almost at home with these guys and they could tell I had was comfortable around the cows and had done vaccinations before.  After finishing a set of cattle, we thanked each other and I went on my way.  I was probably 15 minutes into my hike only to be stopped by the man who owns the small grocery stores in San Miguel.  He sent me back into town with some bread and candy.  I know mom, don’t accept candy out of a car from a stranger, but I couldn’t resist.  I thanked him and started back down the mountain.  I had made it to the last river crossing and finally the pavement.  What a feeling of accomplishment!  I was on top of the world and was stopped yet again by someone!  This time by a taxi driver named Eliott.  He asked if I wanted a ride, and I was about to politely decline, but before I could speak he told me he’d give me a free the rest of the way into town.  Best. Hike. Ever.

So now I have been inspired to post all of the pictures I have taken of cows, or anything having to do with cows during this internship. Enjoy!